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Home Brew Questions

Do you think you could possibly use pine needles somewhere in a recipe?

:hmm:

/this is what happens isn't it? you start looking at the world and wondering- is this fermentable
 
As soon as the wine cleared it was bottled and very drinkable.

If you have a go at this wine I would suggest making the total volume in the fermenting bucket up to 7.5 litres (inc pudding & fruit) I ended up with 6 litres of wine once filtered etc.

Once you have added the boiling water and broke down the pudding put a lid on the bucket and leave it somewhere very cold. A layer of fat / butter will form on the surface from the pudding, so carefully remove as much as possible with your mixing spoon.

After its had 5 days in the bucket, use a jug, sieve and funnel to transfer the liquid to 2 demijohns, then repeat the recipe again using the cake / fruit thats left behind.

Just before bottling I stabilised the wine with 1 crushed campdem tablet and a tsp of potasium sorbate, then sweetned it with 200g of sugar desolved in 1/2 a cup of boiling water for the whole batch.
 
ok so which of you orrible lot have bought up all the xmas puddings in oxford? :hmm: only place that had them was marks and at a fiver a pud this had better be wine of the gods!
 
Also, Wilkos complete wine starter and real ale starter kits in the boys toys range are now a tenner, not bad at all considering the wine kit has a dj, wine bag and box, syphon tube, etc
 
Also, Wilkos complete wine starter and real ale starter kits in the boys toys range are now a tenner, not bad at all considering the wine kit has a dj, wine bag and box, syphon tube, etc
And is the most active fermentation I have ever seen! Day 4 and still it keeps overflowing
 
Brewing a Festival Strong Suffolk and a St Peters Ruby Red, and drinking my xmass Brewmaker IPA made with 500g extra brew enhancer plus a WG Hop tea and dry hop, really coming on as a pint now.
 
Just got a Festival Father Hooks delivered (along with a kit'n'kilo job, a kilo of spraymalt, and a box of Barolo wine kit). Nom.

And I still have some of my Christmas brews left - probably because I'm trying to have a dry January.
 
I just kegged a fine lager. After fermentation I dropped it to 2 degrees and left it there for a couple of weeks.
I tasted the first bit out of the tube as I was kegging it and it was pretty good, despite being flat. It's gassed and ready to go now.

Due to me trying not to drink for the whole of Jan I still have 2 good kegs on tap (Pilsner & Berry Wheat) so the lager will sit at the back of the fridge for a few weeks yet.

I made an American style pale ale with heaps of cascade, I don't like to see an empty fermenter.
 
Xmas pud wine racked this afternoon, Wilkos red kit out the sale bagged and boxed yesterday and a home brew recipe book for a late birthday gift. Smashing
 
popped into dunelm and the woodfordes kits are still on sale so picked up the sundew kit. Will sterilise the FV and bung it on later. They also have their flip top kilner bottles with 20% off so helped myself to 6 of them for my wine and port. Not a bad haul although my fingers have dropped off from the weight of getting the lot home
 
I'm just getting to the bottom of my keg of Sundew, its not been a bad tipple at all, but it would suit a nice sunny afternoon rather than snowy evening.
 
Just brewed a Baltic Porter with crystal rye malt. 1.063 OG. And drinking a leftovers brew I made just before Christmas with leftover grains and hops topped up with a Cooper's pilsner kit and fermented on previous brew's kolsch yeast cake. Really nice.
 
The quick answer is after the primary fermentation, siphon into secondary container leaving most of the yeast behind, batch prime at 4-5g sugar /litre and then transfer to a keg or bottles.

Leave it somewhere warm for 2-3 days to allow secondary fermentation (gets it fizzy) then allow to clear for 2 weeks up to 1 year, and the yeast settles out and should compact (different strains compact either more or less tightly).

Coopers stout for example clears very quickly and can be drunk after 10 days (although it benefits from at least a month to condition) but the Brewmaker IPA I did at Xmass took a month to clear and is only just drinking nicely.
 
What Butcher said, though I have to say that I have rarely had a problem with cloudiness when brewing from kits or concentrate unless I've left the brew on the yeast for too long and it's "caught" something (but is often still perfectly drinkable).
 
Depends a bit if the cloudiness is due to yeast or due to protein haze. For the latter, you can add a bit of Irish Moss towards the end of the boil.

For yeast haze, as butcher and existentialist said above - time resting in bottle is the most important thing. I rarely transfer to a secondary fermenter these days - consensus is that it's not worth the extra risk of infection. Just don't be too greedy when bottling and leave the last part of the brew in the bottom with all the yeast. You should definitely be batch priming using a bottling bucket though.

The other thing is that some yeasts drop out and form a compact cake at the bottom of the bottle much better than others. If you're just using kit yeast, not much you can do about it. But if you're buying separate yeast, then choose one with good reports on the brewing forums for high flocculation. e.g. US-05 and Nottingham are two dry yeasts suitable for a range of basic ales/bitters/stouts and both are pretty similar. But Nottingham clears up much better than US-05.
 
If you really want to make a beer bright faster, (providing it is yeast in suspension that is causing the haze), you could use a beer fining such as kwik clear, issinglass, bentonite chitosan & kiesol ... to name the main ones used.
but unless your kegging beer and force carbonating then there is no need for any of the above, just time.

Sometimes you can get a pectic haze (depending on what you have used to brew from) or protiens as already mentioned by doddles, and sometimes pectalose will help clear it.

Sometime you can get a chill haze if you chill your bottles, nothing will combat this other than not chilling (and TBH, real ales should be between 8c - 12c dependant on the beer style.

Get yourself 3 fermenters and 2 kegs, and along with bottles your set for a continual production that will allow for clearing and conditioning time.

I saw some 25l bottles of water in Asda today, the bottles would be ideal for a conditioning vessel once made light safe.
 
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