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Home Brew Questions

you have obviously not seen where I work :D

By all means use where I do but beware you will be surrounded by 244 unwashed, ungrateful spoilt students
 
mr steev said:
Granulated sugar is perfectly fine to use in making country wines :confused:
Click to expand...
Looks like I was talking out of my arse with this granulated sugar thing. :)
I have no real experience of the fruit and veg wine caper apart from my attempt at apple wine.

I know someone who makes beer using granulated sugar and it's awful. Really bad off flavours, watery etc. He thinls it's good because it costs next to nothing.
Obviously a different kettle of fishes with the wines.

I am enjoying a nice orange/coriander witbier now with a pilsner ready to keg and currently distilling an ouzo.
Where did it all go wrong.
 
I racked my Woodfordes Sun Dew today for clearing before going in the corny keg, 14 days old, fairly clear, fg 1012
It tastes fecking awesome.
Golden Glory / Fursty Ferret style ale.... absolutly gorgeous from the hydrometer trial jar .... Looking forward to supping this one.
 
I might get a couple of those for my toffee apple cider as I am running out of storage space and too many bottles will be tricky to transport in July
 
Can anyone talk me thru home brew wine, the recipes and sites I've looked at assume expert knowledge and I don't know what any of it means.
 
Rosehip Wine


This recipe will make 1 gallon of rose wine (the colour depends on which colour grape juice you decide to add)
You will need:
2lb fresh rosehips or 1/2lb dried rosehips
8oz raisins or 1 small can white or red grape juice
3lb sugar
1tsp Yeast nutrient
1tsp Citric acid
1tsp Wine tannin
1tsp Pectolase
2 Campden tablets
½ tsp Potassium sorbate (fermentation stopper)
1 wine yeast (sachet or teaspoon)
Hot water Finning’s (optional)
Clean and chop the rosehips, do not mince or liquidise them to fine. Add the rosehips to 1 pint of boiling water, crush 1 Campden tablet and add this to the water leave for 24 hours (this will remove any bacteria within the rosehips)


Now add the raisins or grape juice, yeast nutrient, citric acid, tannin and sugar pour over 5 pints of hot water and stir well to dissolve the sugar, cover and leave until cooled down to around 21c then add the Pectolase and stir, sprinkle on the yeast and cover lightly.


Leave to ferment for 5 days. Strain off and add the liquid to a demi john (if need be top up to 4.5ltr with water) fit bung and airlock leave at a temperature of 21c – 25c ferment until a reading on the hydrometer reaches 1000(????) (this could take from 1 week upwards)
When it reaches the specific gravity syphon off in to a clean demi john, add 1 crushed Campden tablet (this will help to preserve the wine) and now add fermentation stopper stir well, leave for 24 hours replacing the airlock on.
Click to expand...
This all seems a bit fussy. What's a hydrometer? what do I put the stuff in while it's fermenting?





It is now time to remove the gas from your wine, stir or shake the demi john for at least 6-7 times daily for at least 2 days or until all the gas has gone (you can tell when all the bubbles have gone in the wine or taste a small amount and there should be no fizz on the tongue)
Now you can either add finings (according to manufactures instructions) or you can leave it to clear naturally this could take up to 6 months or more.
Once the wine is clear syphon off in to a clean demi john then bottle and cork the wine, leave in a dark place to mature this wine should be perfect to drink in 6 months but will taste better if left longer.
Recipe supplied by the homebrew centre Grimsby http://www.homebrewcentregy.com
Click to expand...
 
_angel_ said:
What's a hydrometer?
Click to expand...
A plastic or glass tube type thing a bit like a thermometer. You float it in your brew and there are numbers on the side. You take a reading depending on how much it sinks or floats - it basically tells you how much sugar is in the brew. As you ferment the sugar turns to alcohol so it can be used to work out how strong the brew is or if fermenting has finished

_angel_ said:
what do I put the stuff in while it's fermenting?
Click to expand...

A fermenting bucket.

I've never made rosehip wine, but at a glance that recipe does seem slightly over complicated. I would try something more like this http://www.wine-making-guides.com/rose_hip_wine.html

A quick tip though... get some videne from the chemist. It costs about a fiver for a half litre bottle. You mix a couple of drops with a couple of litres of cold water and use it to clean your equipment. It is so much easier than traditional sterilising methods and it woks a treat
 
I've just bottled 31 bottles of stout and it tastes pretty good already :cool:
I wasn't quite ready for the speed of the syphoning and didn't think about tilting the bottle or how quick they fill compared to wine bottles, but it worked out alright in the end.
I also forgot that some beer bottles aren't suitable for my capper but luckily managed to get some more from my mates upstairs
 
Hefeweizen, using safale wheat yeast for the first time.
8195287228_4939fdb83d.jpg
 
I've got some to bottle but need the sugar for priming. My purse is in Mr Dovy's car..... they will have to wait
 
Made up an elderfower pale ale yesterday.
1 tin of Coopers Aussie Pale Ale
300g of munich barley mashed for 30 minutes to add sweet malty charactor
500g extra light malt
500g of brewing sugar
50g of dried elderflowers simmered for 30 minutes to add a floral note
40g of East Kent Goldings hops to add a little bitterness and flavour to offset the malty sweetnes
Muntons Gold yeast as it is an excellent yeat that does not impart flavour change to the ale.
 
Brewferm double triple in da airing cupboard:cool:

Two tins of brewferm triple (£9 a tin cos they was bashed)
2 tins of golden syrup 900gms
400 gms of amber spray malt.
Boiled the spray malt in 3 liters of water with 25 g's of east Kent goldings
OG 1074 @18 ltrs.

That should get me pissed :cool:
 
Hehe, great thread!! Loving the vimto wine idea!!

I run at a wine stock of around 80 gallon and drink on a 2 or 3 year old basis..its really quite easy once you have a process, I don't use any air-locks, kits or heating.. works out at about 20p a bottle as well..

12lb fruit
5kg sugar [granulated but heated into a syrup in water]
Water
Stuff [pectolaze, citric acid, yeast nutrient, camden tablets and yeast]

Job done...
 
I need some advice fellow brewers!

I am setting up an Xmass IPA using a Brewmaker IPA one can (I ordered the Better Brew I am familiar with but they sent this) plus a 1.8kg tin of amber malt.

I want this to be a nice strongish hoppy beer, so I was thinking adding 300g extra of dried malt and making a 10g hop tea with a 10-15 min boil, plus a 40g dry hop in the primary ferm. Do you think this will work?

I am brewing to 23L
 
what hops are you going to use?
You need to know the Alpha Acids of the hops to work out a boils / steep / dry schedule
 
Together with my mate, we've just finished pressing 2/3 tonne of apples - has rendered over 420L of juice (sugar reading predicts about 8% ABV) - first bubbles appeared yesterday. We're both knackered but, on the plus side, now have biceps of steel! An epic trip to "Ciderspace" is on the cards in about 7 months' time. ;)
 
butcher said:
I need some advice fellow brewers!

I am setting up an Xmass IPA using a Brewmaker IPA one can (I ordered the Better Brew I am familiar with but they sent this) plus a 1.8kg tin of amber malt.

I want this to be a nice strongish hoppy beer, so I was thinking adding 300g extra of dried malt and making a 10g hop tea with a 10-15 min boil, plus a 40g dry hop in the primary ferm. Do you think this will work?

I am brewing to 23L
Click to expand...

3.6kg LME and 0.3kg DME in 23l will give you about 5.1%. If you want more than that, you can add 0.5 kg sugar to IPA safely enough, it's supposed to be relatively light bodied and dry. That would get you up to 6.1%.

Hop-wise, 10g for 10 minutes will add very little bitterness, about 2 IBU. 30g@7%AA for an hour will add 20 IBU. Boil the hops in a lot of water, a gallon at least. It's hard to guess how bitter your kit is to start with, but if you want to make a proper IPA, an extra 20 IBU should be fine, White Shield is about 55 IBU.

40g dry hop is plenty, possibly too much if it's a modern hybrid.

http://www.buildabeer.org/beercalc.htm
 
ExtraRefined said:
3.6kg LME and 0.3kg DME in 23l will give you about 5.1%. If you want more than that, you can add 0.5 kg sugar to IPA safely enough, it's supposed to be relatively light bodied and dry. That would get you up to 6.1%.

Hop-wise, 10g for 10 minutes will add very little bitterness, about 2 IBU. 30g@7%AA for an hour will add 20 IBU. Boil the hops in a lot of water, a gallon at least. It's hard to guess how bitter your kit is to start with, but if you want to make a proper IPA, an extra 20 IBU should be fine, White Shield is about 55 IBU.

40g dry hop is plenty, possibly too much if it's a modern hybrid.

http://www.buildabeer.org/beercalc.htm
Click to expand...


Cheers all :) Happy brewing!
 
seeformiles said:
Together with my mate, we've just finished pressing 2/3 tonne of apples - has rendered over 420L of juice (sugar reading predicts about 8% ABV) - first bubbles appeared yesterday. We're both knackered but, on the plus side, now have biceps of steel! An epic trip to "Ciderspace" is on the cards in about 7 months' time. ;)
Click to expand...

Fucking hell. Kudos.
 
seeformiles said:
Together with my mate, we've just finished pressing 2/3 tonne of apples - has rendered over 420L of juice (sugar reading predicts about 8% ABV) - first bubbles appeared yesterday. We're both knackered but, on the plus side, now have biceps of steel! An epic trip to "Ciderspace" is on the cards in about 7 months' time. ;)
Click to expand...

420 DRINK SCRUMPY EVERY DAY
 
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