Urban75 Home About Offline BrixtonBuzz Contact

Show us yer house and house-related meddlings

bimble said:
Thats me that is, Oil fired central heating (kerosene oil delivered to a big plastic tank outside) or sit by the fire or plug in electric heaters i suppose but thats a crap idea. I am interested in the heat pumps and reading about it but its a very big deal.
Click to expand...
I have oil fired central heating and a stove that also heats the radiators and the hot water cylinder. The stove is excellent.
 
strung out said:
That video was really useful, thanks!

Managed to undo some of the tap to get to the cartridge, but can't undo the final bit securing the cartridge, and can't figure out what tool I need to do it. It's too big for my adjustable wrench and the cartridge also looks slightly different to the replacement one I have 🤔

View attachment 295931
Click to expand...

Dont worry about the cartridge until youve got it out but tbh yes it might well not fit. No point in getting a replacement part until you know exactly what you need - I usually take the part along to a local hardware store if im not sure.

Also, hrmm. That seems to be tricky bit like in the video. Im sure there is a tool specifically for those kind of parts but maybe an adjustable rubber wrench like in the video would be useful. You could rent one from a local library of things or try and borrow one via freecycle etc. Or just buy one/a big rubber toothed adjustable wrench.

Otherwise, if I was desperate, I would spray the inside there with some linescale cleaner spray (not the super strong stuff in a bottle) and let that sit. Then tap it hard with something carefully. Then with a rubber glove or a kitchen towel to try and get a good grip, unscrew it. A spray of WD40 could also be quite useful as it drives out moisture and lubricates.

It should be easy enough as soon as you get that piece off. Youre sure you cant get the cartridge out otherwise right?
 
Sweet FA said:
Well it's going to look pretty much like it started as it turns out. But smoother and less rickety.

I was going to put some colour on it but couldn't convince people of my vision so I'm basically taking it apart, cleaning/sanding/varnishing/cleaning/sanding/varnishing etc etc, then polishing all the wood & replacing all the carpet tacks with new screws and respraying the bolts/braces then hopefully putting it all back together again. Was all lovely when I could work outside but snow unfuckingbelievably has stopped play.

It started off like this: years of beers poured, takeaways scoffed, lines chopped, pills crushed, spliffs skinned. Then (er after it was mopped down a bit), Lil'FA teethed on the sides and learned to walk hanging off it. Mrs FA got it from a secondhand furniture place in Clapham Junction in 96/97 from a bloke who said it was 'really old and probably Indian'.




It's stupidly heavy and the legs are a different type of wood to the top though I have no idea what woods they might be.

View attachment 262767





View attachment 262776View attachment 262777View attachment 262778View attachment 262779View attachment 262780View attachment 262781View attachment 262782View attachment 262790

I know when most of those gouges were made :D

View attachment 262783
Click to expand...
Bloody hell are you in cornwall :D I think I just bought this

Weighs a fucking ton
 
om20061113.jpg


:p
 
I think I've resolved my cooker issues, at least in theory. I just need to order the right heatproof custom splashback so the gas fitter doesn't refuse to install it. I then have a very limited choice of cheap cookers.

However the lead time for the splashback takes us literally to Christmas which is less than ideal, and I could get a cooker sooner than that. Can anyone suggest a cheap, temporary way of heatproofing a T-shaped bit of wall?

I've basically spent far too long trying to work out what I have to do and researching solutions. Plus dithering over the outrageous price of the splashback.
 
RubyToogood said:
I think I've resolved my cooker issues, at least in theory. I just need to order the right heatproof custom splashback so the gas fitter doesn't refuse to install it. I then have a very limited choice of cheap cookers.

However the lead time for the splashback takes us literally to Christmas which is less than ideal, and I could get a cooker sooner than that. Can anyone suggest a cheap, temporary way of heatproofing a T-shaped bit of wall?

I've basically spent far too long trying to work out what I have to do and researching solutions. Plus dithering over the outrageous price of the splashback.
Click to expand...
Do you have a gas fitter in mind? Throw it over to them and see what they suggest?
 
danski said:
Do you have a gas fitter in mind? Throw it over to them and see what they suggest?
Click to expand...
I'm just going with the ao.com service or Curry's or whoever supplies the cooker in case there does turn out to be a problem. Neither of them has been very helpful. But I have no faith in gas fitters understanding the regulations either, I don't think the one who sweepingly condemned my kitchen knew what he was talking about but I don't blame him because the regulations are not clear at all.
 
Who or what does the "heatproofing" have to satisfy?

"Heatproof" doesn't mean much on its own. Fireproof plasterboard isn't designed to resist sustained heat - it's designed to resist fire for a short amount of time. And it won't be splashproof.
 
RubyToogood said:
I think I've resolved my cooker issues, at least in theory. I just need to order the right heatproof custom splashback so the gas fitter doesn't refuse to install it. I then have a very limited choice of cheap cookers.

However the lead time for the splashback takes us literally to Christmas which is less than ideal, and I could get a cooker sooner than that. Can anyone suggest a cheap, temporary way of heatproofing a T-shaped bit of wall?

I've basically spent far too long trying to work out what I have to do and researching solutions. Plus dithering over the outrageous price of the splashback.
Click to expand...
I’ve ordered two glass splashbacks recently and they’ve taken bloody ages and were expensive because they were make to measure,
 
teuchter said:
Who or what does the "heatproofing" have to satisfy?

"Heatproof" doesn't mean much on its own. Fireproof plasterboard isn't designed to resist sustained heat - it's designed to resist fire for a short amount of time. And it won't be splashproof.
Click to expand...
It's only temporary and even normal plasterboard can resist water dripping on it for years.
 
teuchter said:
Who or what does the "heatproofing" have to satisfy?

"Heatproof" doesn't mean much on its own. Fireproof plasterboard isn't designed to resist sustained heat - it's designed to resist fire for a short amount of time. And it won't be splashproof.
Click to expand...
Say I order from ao.com, I have to satisfy this.

Screenshot_20211124-213249.png
 
Last edited:
Well, I think plasterboard would count as non combustible but I might think of using something like cement board as it won't disintegrate in damp and can be cut without the edges crumbling.

www.jameshardie.co.uk

Backer

www.jameshardie.co.uk www.jameshardie.co.uk

totaltiles.co.uk

Tile Backer Board 6mm 1200x600mm

Why Use Tile Backer Board on floors? Easy and quick to install Reduces floor movement and stops cracking Water-resistant once primed with SBR Primer A1 Fire rated Thermally Insulating Slim 6mm fibre cement boards avoid creation of a large ‘step’ into tiled area.
totaltiles.co.uk totaltiles.co.uk

Also, as it's designed as a backer board, you could probably install the final splashback on top of it.
 
RubyToogood said:
I had been going to go with stainless steel but by the time it's cut to the necessary T shape it's really pricey again and I may as well get the nice glass one sprayed to the RAL colour of my choice.

I will explore the tile backer board.

Looby where did you get yours from?
Click to expand...
Premier Range.
We’re trying tile stickers to brighten up our kitchen because we’re renting so one is going behind the cooker hob and the other on the strip behind the sink which always looks manky. Hope they don’t look shit!
 
RubyToogood said:
I had been going to go with stainless steel but by the time it's cut to the necessary T shape it's really pricey again and I may as well get the nice glass one sprayed to the RAL colour of my choice.

I will explore the tile backer board.

Looby where did you get yours from?
Click to expand...
Rather than faff with the T shape they show, could you just extend the full width all the way up, gaining more coverage with less cutting?
 
Last edited:
danski said:
Rather than faff with the T shape they show, could you just extend the full width all the way up, gaining more coverage with less cutting?
Click to expand...
No. It has to fit round the cupboards. The cupboards were what the original gas guy was objecting to but according to that diagram they're fine*. However the area between the cupboards and work surface is also MDF so I need to clad that too up to that 90 mm width.

*I'm pretty sure he was going by the regulations for fitting a second hand cooker where you don't have the manufacturer's instructions. He thought the cupboards were too near. They're slightly more than 400 mm above the work surface and in line with the gap for the cooker which looks right to me according to the diagram, and I've checked the manuals for every gas cooker of the right width :mad:
 
Incidentally the ao.com diagram for electric cookers is identical in every way except that the main bit is 650 mm high instead of 750 mm.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

I
Show us your teapot / tea cosy
2
Replies
30
Views
570
Happy Tree
Happy Tree
danny la rouge
Show us your kitchen cupboards
2
Replies
45
Views
1K
MrCurry
MrCurry
kalidarkone
Selling house questions (first timer)
2 3
Replies
65
Views
3K
Epona
Epona
Cloo
Colour for our house?
Replies
24
Views
836
scifisam
scifisam
Fez909
Things that annoy you about your house
2 3 4 5
Replies
122
Views
4K
lazythursday
L
Back
Top Bottom