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Show us yer house and house-related meddlings

I really want to cart it outside and pressure wash the fucker but I expect it'll backfire - if I even get it there - in the form of instant rust. I washed (with a brush) and dried the top piece and we'll see how that goes.
 
Another day, another step forward.

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I did cart it downstairs, outside, and pressure washed all the goo off. Plus a lot of chipping away at it with a scraper/chisel type thing. Now it needs going over with wire wool, which I need to order, and then blackening with grate polish.

Any tips on what kind of wire wool? I have a little bit of 0000 from something else but it's slow going.
 
Another day, another step forward.

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I did cart it downstairs, outside, and pressure washed all the goo off. Plus a lot of chipping away at it with a scraper/chisel type thing. Now it needs going over with wire wool, which I need to order, and then blackening with grate polish.

Any tips on what kind of wire wool? I have a little bit of 0000 from something else but it's slow going.
Personally I would use a fine grade to avoid damaging it. It's looking amazing.
 
Oh wow that’s so beautiful equationgirl you have a great eye, if I tried to do that I just know I couldn’t.
Thanks Edie that means a lot. Honestly it's just pictures I've collected over the years.

The photos of old-fashioned women I found in a charity shop and thought it was sad they got put out. All of them are dressed up and obviously going out somewhere special.
 
And Edie you could totally do that too. I got frames from Amazon and IKEA, a lot of them were 50p each. The bigger ones were about £4 each. I got some borders too which makes the picture smarter, then grouped them with common colours or black and white.
 
I need decking.

That’s both a confession of my shortcomings and an acknowledgement of my requirement to purchase a shit load of wooden planks and make good use of the lockdown time by ripping up the old deck outside and screwing down a new one. Never having done this, I thought I’d ask some advice.

First up, which boards to buy? Pressure treated seems like a good idea for longevity, and 28mm x 120mm seems like a good size.

But ribbed or flat? Pics below from a website. Ribbed is £1.60 per metre and flat is just about £1.10/m, so a fair difference with 32 square metres to cover.

The ribbed is probably nicer to walk on, but do those grooves hold rainwater longer and make it rot sooner? Any other factors to consider?

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equationgirl - what shade of blue is that in the lounge? I'd like to try something like that in our front room - I'm hoping to order sample pots but from what I can see a lot of paint sites are selling out because everyone else is getting test colours while on lockdown!

As soon as we might be able to have some workmen in the house (which I would hope will be allowed in earlier stages of de-lockdown for non-shielded homes) I think I might just suggest we get the hell of with that roon.
 
equationgirl - what shade of blue is that in the lounge? I'd like to try something like that in our front room - I'm hoping to order sample pots but from what I can see a lot of paint sites are selling out because everyone else is getting test colours while on lockdown!

As soon as we might be able to have some workmen in the house (which I would hope will be allowed in earlier stages of de-lockdown for non-shielded homes) I think I might just suggest we get the hell of with that roon.
It's a B&Q Valspar colour called 'cry me a river'. I don't know if it's still available.
 
I need decking.

That’s both a confession of my shortcomings and an acknowledgement of my requirement to purchase a shit load of wooden planks and make good use of the lockdown time by ripping up the old deck outside and screwing down a new one. Never having done this, I thought I’d ask some advice.

First up, which boards to buy? Pressure treated seems like a good idea for longevity, and 28mm x 120mm seems like a good size.

But ribbed or flat? Pics below from a website. Ribbed is £1.60 per metre and flat is just about £1.10/m, so a fair difference with 32 square metres to cover.

The ribbed is probably nicer to walk on, but do those grooves hold rainwater longer and make it rot sooner? Any other factors to consider?

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Kiln- (or air-, depending on species) dried hardwood is the more hardwearing and imo looks much better than the softwood stuff.

Decking should be laid with the ribbed side down; the ribbing is not designed as an anti-slip measure, it’s designed to increase the airflow and prevent rotting underneath. It doesn‘t really help with water run off either, unless you have it installed on a fall and in short lengths.

Use decking screws and hidden fixings if budget allows.
 
Decking, I would go with the composite stuff rather than timber because unless it's somewhere reliably sunny and dry (ie hardly anywhere in the UK) wood just inevitably goes rotten and or gets algae etc all over it and turns into a slippery nightmare. Which is why people are forever ripping up decking.
 
I spent an hour this morning looking at websites about decking. Have a mitre saw and a very steep slope. :hmm:
The pressure treated timber which is greenish, does that stop being greenish when you stain it or does it just stay a bit weird looking forever?
 
The pressure treated timber which is greenish, does that stop being greenish when you stain it or does it just stay a bit weird looking forever?
You can’t stain the pretreated (green) stuff, and it will always look like pretreated timber. It’s also going to warp and split more than a hardwood.

If you want a deck that retains a warm timber colour you’ve got to oil it and then commit to a serious maintenance regime. Or go for a composite which will always look like plastic.
 
Deck is more of a 'that would be really nice' thing and can wait, probably years.
My immediate plan is to fix the (wooden casement) windows so that they open and close, most of them don't open at all and once you have shoved them open won't close again. Some buffoon painted them shut (I mean gloss painted them from outside without ever dealing with the warped insides of the frames).
Has anyone done this before? I'm worried about how to get it so that I have sanded the right amount to allow for undercoat and paint and still be able to open and close the windows but without overdoing it and having a draughty house.
 
Deck is more of a 'that would be really nice' thing and can wait, probably years.
My immediate plan is to fix the (wooden casement) windows so that they open and close, most of them don't open at all and once you have shoved them open won't close again. Some buffoon painted them shut (I mean gloss painted them from outside without ever dealing with the warped insides of the frames).
Has anyone done this before? I'm worried about how to get it so that I have sanded the right amount to allow for undercoat and paint and still be able to open and close the windows but without overdoing it and having a draughty house.
Sounds like specialist work if they’re badly warped as they’ll need to be cut and spliced to fit properly. You could sand them down and install some draughtproofing seals yourself but ime window restoration is as much art as science and an experienced eye is required to get it right.
 
Decking is one thing I need to do too, we have stairs and a platform outside the back door down to the garden and most of it needs replacing. It’s got green pressure treated boards in it at the moment. How difficult is the hardwood to work with?. Is it much more expensive?
 
Kiln- (or air-, depending on species) dried hardwood is the more hardwearing and imo looks much better than the softwood stuff.

Decking should be laid with the ribbed side down; the ribbing is not designed as an anti-slip measure, it’s designed to increase the airflow and prevent rotting underneath. It doesn‘t really help with water run off either, unless you have it installed on a fall and in short lengths.

Use decking screws and hidden fixings if budget allows.

Where I am, the hardwood options are literally 8 times the price of the standard pressure treated softwood boards, so nice as it might be, it’s not feasible for me. There is an intermediate option of Siberian Larch, which is a softwood which they reckon is good for 50 years lifespan and looks pretty nice. That is getting on for four times the price of the pressure treated softwood, so again probably not gonna happen.

By hidden fixings, you mean this kind of thing? Looks like it screws to the back side of the boards and then you put the screws through the gaps? Nice idea, but doesn’t it promote rotting of the underside of the boards by allowing water to stay trapped between the plastic bar and the wood? Surely the screws to hold the plastic bars on have to be really short so they don’t come through the top side of the decking boards?

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Decking, I would go with the composite stuff rather than timber because unless it's somewhere reliably sunny and dry (ie hardly anywhere in the UK) wood just inevitably goes rotten and or gets algae etc all over it and turns into a slippery nightmare. Which is why people are forever ripping up decking.

The plastic stuff leaves me cold tbh... It might last forever, but I guess the frame it gets screwed to needs replacing eventually anyway.

One more Q for anyone who knows - how easy is it to put in these predrilled plinths and bearers for making the support frame of a deck? Do you dig the hole just with a spade, or is a pick axe required? And from what I understand, you dig deeper than the plinth height and line the hole with gravel for the plinth to sit on top of?

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Where I am, the hardwood options are literally 8 times the price of the standard pressure treated softwood boards, so nice as it might be, it’s not feasible for me. There is an intermediate option of Siberian Larch, which is a softwood which they reckon is good for 50 years lifespan and looks pretty nice. That is getting on for four times the price of the pressure treated softwood, so again probably not gonna happen.

By hidden fixings, you mean this kind of thing? Looks like it screws to the back side of the boards and then you put the screws through the gaps? Nice idea, but doesn’t it promote rotting of the underside of the boards by allowing water to stay trapped between the plastic bar and the wood? Surely the screws to hold the plastic bars on have to be really short so they don’t come through the top side of the decking boards?

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The plastic stuff leaves me cold tbh... It might last forever, but I guess the frame it gets screwed to needs replacing eventually anyway.

One more Q for anyone who knows - how easy is it to put in these predrilled plinths and bearers for making the support frame of a deck? Do you dig the hole just with a spade, or is a pick axe required? And from what I understand, you dig deeper than the plinth height and line the hole with gravel for the plinth to sit on top of?

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Siberian Larch would be a good option. Cedar is another softwood used for decking so might be worth a try depending on where you are.

I haven’t used those fixings but there are dozens of varieties. Some need a special tool, others just a hammer. I don’t know of any designed for softwood though. Speak to the timber supplier and see what they recommend would be best.

For the plinths you could hire an auger, a post hole digger or just use a spade. As long as the timber is clear of the ground and any pooled water once you’ve backfilled it will be fine.
 
The plastic stuff leaves me cold tbh... It might last forever, but I guess the frame it gets screwed to needs replacing eventually anyway.

The composite stuff that is brown colour and tries to look like timber looks fairly horrible but I think it can look ok if it's a dark grey colour and isn't pretending to look like timber. This is subjective of course.
The problem is that softwood timber is simply the wrong material for the job. People want something that is impossible: a deck with a natural timber look, without it being expensive. The choices are: have your softwood timber deck and watch it turn into something awful after 2 or 3 years, spend a lot more money on some kind of hardwood or specialist timber product, or do it in an affordable way but give up on a natural timber look. The DIY stores do a good trade on most people going for the first option.
 
Siberian Larch would be a good option. Cedar is another softwood used for decking so might be worth a try depending on where you are.

I haven’t used those fixings but there are dozens of varieties. Some need a special tool, others just a hammer. I don’t know of any designed for softwood though. Speak to the timber supplier and see what they recommend would be best.

Thanks, I just found this tool for about £45 which allows you to insert the decking screws through the sides of the boards. Looks like a good option to me!

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have your softwood timber deck and watch it turn into something awful after 2 or 3 years ..
Is this just an unavoidable fact of life or if a person were to sand and treat it every summer with the right sort of oil stuff would that not mean it lasts much longer? I ask because cohabitee is now dead set on building a deck.
 
You could look at Accoya or other pickled wood products. They last for decades. However, cost aside, they're mostly intended to be painted and they're not very aesthetically pleasing bits wood - some kind of really plain looking pine.
 
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