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Opening up a fireplace

Had to ask my downstairs neighbours to refrain from burning stuff in their 'rediscovered' fireplace a few years back, when my flat started filling up with smoke thanks to various holes in the flues (including some deliberately made for ventilation when the fireplaces were taken out of use).

Same can happen unseen in attic spaces. Smoke is one thing but red hot cinders are another....
You can also kill your neighbours or any family upstairs with carbon monoxide poisoning
 
I am putting down a course of firebricks on the base this weekend. Looking at putting in a lower lintel and bricking above. All in the name of reducing the opening.
I want this sorted for Christmas.
 
Had to ask my downstairs neighbours to refrain from burning stuff in their 'rediscovered' fireplace a few years back, when my flat started filling up with smoke thanks to various holes in the flues (including some deliberately made for ventilation when the fireplaces were taken out of use).

Same can happen unseen in attic spaces. Smoke is one thing but red hot cinders are another....

You can also kill your neighbours or any family upstairs with carbon monoxide poisoning

And, this is why TopCat needs to get a bloody expert in to check it out.
 
You can also kill your neighbours or any family upstairs with carbon monoxide poisoning
And if this doesn't succeed, if you're in an urban area you can comfort yourself with the fact that the smoke that makes it out the chimney will aggravate someone's asthma or contribute to some other kind of lung disease.
 
Nah. You don't need an acro. Choose your hight, kango that row out, fit the lintel, point everything up. The chimney won't collapse because you take a row of bricks out for an hour. If one or two in the row above loosen, just cement them in when you're doing the lintel.

But yeah, check the HETAS spec's from your fella installing in. You'll need it to be "so far" out, have so much headroom and sidespace as well. There's also things like a hearth of a certian thickness. Concrete and tile or slate will work. I found an old broken snooker table and cut the thick slate from it into three sections, which worked great for my space. If you do use slate make sure it's not one big bit as heat will expand and crack it.
keybored I reckon follow nogojones advice about lintels etc.

This prompted me to dig out some photos of a chimneybreast in my place, firstly as uncovered after removing the plaster then various stages of repair. All the bricks I replaced just came out by hand and the mortar was in an awful state in places. Hence my advice of caution. But looks like yours are in a better condition.

Only just got time to do some more on this, so I picked up a lintel, mortar, acrows and strongboys (just in case) and only then decided to remove more plaster...


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I can't say I'm very confident in this "brick"work. I was hoping to find a wall mostly of staggered bricks that would have self-corbelled to support the structure but the higher I go, the more stone appears from the sides. The latest plan was to get a lintel in not too far above the existing arch, then remove everything under the lintel, lift the steel former up a course and use that to form a new arch with reclaimed bricks (those half bricks you see in the existing arch do seem to be just that, I dug some mortar out enough to poke around behind them). Then plaster over it all leaving just the arch exposed.

I'm not even sure where best to put the lintel (100 x 65) in that lot, or where to position the props to help stop the lot crashing down. Understand the lintel should be level, resting on complete bricks and should extend at least 100mm over those bricks.

Best way forward from here?
 
Only just got time to do some more on this, so I picked up a lintel, mortar, acrows and strongboys (just in case) and only then decided to remove more plaster...


View attachment 353499

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I can't say I'm very confident in this "brick"work. I was hoping to find a wall mostly of staggered bricks that would have self-corbelled to support the structure but the higher I go, the more stone appears from the sides. The latest plan was to get a lintel in not too far above the existing arch, then remove everything under the lintel, lift the steel former up a course and use that to form a new arch with reclaimed bricks (those half bricks you see in the existing arch do seem to be just that, I dug some mortar out enough to poke around behind them). Then plaster over it all leaving just the arch exposed.

I'm not even sure where best to put the lintel (100 x 65) in that lot, or where to position the props to help stop the lot crashing down. Understand the lintel should be level, resting on complete bricks and should extend at least 100mm over those bricks.

Best way forward from here?
Do you know what's above and what state that's in? Might be worth a check in case some of your works don't quite pan out the way you intend.
 
Do you know what's above and what state that's in? Might be worth a check in case some of your works don't quite pan out the way you intend.

As in, what's beneath the plaster above what I've exposed already? Or what's above that room?
 
As in, what's beneath the plaster above what I've exposed already? Or what's above that room?
I meant above that room and if it is sound and will withstand possible disruption.
I’m probably being over cautious but I’d be inclined to get an engineer to have a look but that’s just me.
 
If it was me, and I was DIY-ing it, then I reckon I would be thinking about putting the strongboy blades in where the green lines are, with a view to removing the two courses below and the lintel going in where the grey rectangle is.

In theory assuming the brickwork is basically fairly sound, the red bit is the maximum that would collapse and fall out.

I'd probably scratch my head and get nervous before actually doing it though. And go away and watch a bunch of youtube videos and stuff. Don't take my suggestion as expert advice and don't blame me if your house falls down as a result.

Screenshot 2022-11-29 at 22.35.52.jpg

But I think I'd want to understand what's happening behind where I've drawn the lintel, make sure that it's still just a single brick thickness at that point, and that there's not something going on with the flue behind, like starting to go diagonally to the side or anything like that.
 
I don't think it's a crack, it's just the side of the chimney breast, which doesn't seem to have been built in a very straight kind of way.
 
:eek:
I'd want to check those loose 'bricks' that appear to be just bunged in. That could be a hole that goes through to the flue and could cause dangerous gasses to escape into the house.

Even worse is that large diagonal crack at the left. That seriously needs looking at. :eek:

That's just a haphazard slope. There will be a flue liner going in.
 
If it was me, and I was DIY-ing it, then I reckon I would be thinking about putting the strongboy blades in where the green lines are, with a view to removing the two courses below and the lintel going in where the grey rectangle is.

In theory assuming the brickwork is basically fairly sound, the red bit is the maximum that would collapse and fall out.

I'd probably scratch my head and get nervous before actually doing it though. And go away and watch a bunch of youtube videos and stuff. Don't take my suggestion as expert advice and don't blame me if your house falls down as a result.

View attachment 353520

But I think I'd want to understand what's happening behind where I've drawn the lintel, make sure that it's still just a single brick thickness at that point, and that there's not something going on with the flue behind, like starting to go diagonally to the side or anything like that.
Thanks. One of the things that bothers me about that level is that the lintel ends might then not be resting on whole bricks. I'll have to have a dig and see if it is an end-on whole brick or just a half brick (wouldn't surprise me in this place).
 
Thanks. One of the things that bothers me about that level is that the lintel ends might then not be resting on whole bricks. I'll have to have a dig and see if it is an end-on whole brick or just a half brick (wouldn't surprise me in this place).
Yes, if they are just half bricks then maybe one course down would be better.

Also is the lintel a fixed length or will you cut it to size? Because maybe it could be the full width of the chimneybreast, in the course where I've shown it.
 
Yes, if they are just half bricks then maybe one course down would be better.

Also is the lintel a fixed length or will you cut it to size? Because maybe it could be the full width of the chimneybreast, in the course where I've shown it.
I can't go lower if I'm to rebuild the arch there. I'll be cutting the lintel to size and it's 1500mm, so wide enough for either. Feels like a bold move to completely remove the whole width though!

I've pulled up some carpet in the room above this evening and discovered a stone hearth, so there was also a fireplace above and likely the downstairs flue will go diagonally to one side at some point.
 
Sort of motivated by this thread , I got a local sweep and all round excellent stove / open fire aficionado for a check out of my beloved Stovax (burns only very clean , seasoned and sustainable (i.e acquired free) wood)

Anyway - he gives the stove a clean bill of health in terms of fire bricks , baffle plate etc , will replace the cord around the door, and has recommended a sweep and another access hatch put in (as well as the back one . which is in what used to be the garage - but is now study no 2)

Chimney not lined - but should be OK.

Cost equals to £70 for a sweep - £30 each for new hatch and cord and about a mornings work. Will issue a certificate when done. So quite pleased all round.
 
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