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Keeping Chickens

So how do you keep them stimulated? Stuff to peck at and explore? Stuff to rip out by the roots? Crazy golf?
Things for them to climb on and peck around. And some toys that release food as they peck them. Some hanging treats. Different foods as treats e.g. corn, mealworm, and some kitchen scraps (not potato peel, and you're not supposed to give them stuff that's leftovers from plates).
 
Complete logic fail. You probably live in a house, but I doubt you could build one.
Yes, but I live in a complex urban human society. Most animals, as far as I'm aware build their own homes. Are there badger run construction companies that dig out estates of executive fox earths?
 
Yes, but I live in a complex urban human society. Most animals, as far as I'm aware build their own homes. Are there badger run construction companies that dig out estates of executive fox earths?

Fox dens can last for decades. They don't build them in a hurry.

As for appropriating mustelid labour, it is not unheard of for foxes to squat in abandoned badger setts.
 
if you have chickens do you need to get somebody to feed and whatever else them daily if you are away?

You can get automatic feeders and drinkers. Main thing is to collect the eggs daily because you don't want your chickens to start eating them.
 
Battery hen farming was banned in 2012 in the UK, so I think you mean barn hens.

We got some rescued battery hens once (long before the 2012 ban). We put them in their lovely new run and they just stood dead still for hours. Then one finally took a cautious step to its left, realised that it could actually move to its left, and went completely beserk.

To look at them when they arrived I thought they weren't long for the world; scrawny and half bald and shaking. But in a few weeks they fattened up, built up strength, started growing new feathers; basically turned back into living creatures. Really lovely to watch.
 
Watch out for Mr Fox

i understand that female foxes of the opposite sex will go after chickens as well.

i've never knowingly met a non binary fox, but would have thought they will too.

:p

To look at them when they arrived I thought they weren't long for the world; scrawny and half bald and shaking. But in a few weeks they fattened up, built up strength, started growing new feathers; basically turned back into living creatures. Really lovely to watch.

some people knit jumpers for recent rescued battery hens, although i can find opinion that it's not necessary
 
i understand that female foxes of the opposite sex will go after chickens as well.

i've never knowingly met a non binary fox, but would have thought they will too.

:p



some people knit jumpers for recent rescued battery hens, although i can find opinion that it's not necessary

If there are any battery hens being recently rescued in the UK then that needs to be reported to the RSPCA as battery farming has been illegal for 10 years...
 
Fox dens can last for decades. They don't build them in a hurry.

As for appropriating mustelid labour, it is not unheard of for foxes to squat in abandoned badger setts.
They must build them very well, then; a bit like those chaps in Stalag Luft III.
 
My neighbour but one keeps chickens, he hasn't made many friends because pretty much everyone is seeing rats in their gardens. I put that down to how he manages them.
Friend was telling me today how she keeps chickens and has had a rat issue… probably the same thing
 
My neighbour but one keeps chickens, he hasn't made many friends because pretty much everyone is seeing rats in their gardens. I put that down to how he manages them.
Where you get poultry, you will get rats - best to act as if you have rats right from the off, get traps sorted etc.

If I were you, Id make sure it had a solid roof, because I don't think avian influenza is going anywhere and that way you'll conform to regs.
 
Chickens - even if in a run - really need a (well-trained) Jack Russell in the yard with them to deal with the rats and scare off the foxes…
 
One of the chicken keepers I know has a theory that you should only ever move slowly if you need to herd or catch chickens, because they aren't actually aware that they can run faster until you make them :D

This is true. Also you have to grab them from above, covering both wings. Do it right and they stay pretty calm. Do it wrong and you get flappy, feathery chaos.
 
I used to keep chickens and only stopped because of a crazy neighbour who claimed to the HA that they were so noisy they were stopping her sleeping (she walked up to the coop, at the end of the garden, out her phone next to the coop, recorded the clucks as they laid an egg, and claimed that was the constant noise she heard from the bedroom). They really, really weren't - chickens aren't noisy unless you have a rooster - by my HA is shit and my neighbour is insane. I was technically protected by the Allotment Act 1947, which has never been repealed and means anyone can keep chickens or rabbits as long as they're not a health hazard, which three chickens in a large garden are not.

My other neighbours were disappointed the hens had left and I plan on getting them back again once the neighbour moves out.

Anyway...

Be REALLY strict with the digging down to stop foxes getting in - the guidelines is to think of anywhere there could a gap big enough for a squirrel. Foxes are skinny fuckers that can squeeze through small gaps. Almost every new hen owner loses some hens to start with until they get used to how strict and safe you have to be.

Get an automatic feeder, and if you can afford it get an automatic waterer. Hand treats like cabbages off hooks to give them some enrichment activity.

Clean them out a little every day when collecting the eggs (and collect the eggs every day, or they might either start eating them or fruitlessly trying to hatch them). Chicken shit is not a big deal - wear gardening gloves you keep just for that purpose, scoop out the poo from their sleeping and laying area, and some of the straw, and throw it in the compost. Then do a proper clean once a week or so.

If you can make the run human height it makes it far easier to clean.

Limewash the inside of any wooden areas - it helps protect against mites and helps with light levels.

Write the date on the eggs with a biro so you remember which ones are the newest.

Don't worry about getting them into bed at dusk; they will go in of their own accord. However, I did bell-train my hens. Rang a bell every time I gave them a treat, like watermelon or fresh veg or whatever, and then when I rang the bell they'd all come running to the coop.

With ex-barn hens - and some of these might be ex-battery hens due to confinement due to bird flu - it's not hugely unusual for one to just die within a couple of weeks. They were unhealthy hens and it would have happened anywhere. That's one reason you need three; solo hens are unhappy, and they need at least one other hen, preferably two, to snuggle against at night, or they will be really cold.

They are usually very friendly. Hold them firmly when you pick them up and they'll sit there quite happily. They will also sit on your lap, but only let them do it on a blanket, because hens shit a lot.

They can eat most vegetable scraps but NO onions or anything similar, no spices, no dairy, and no meat - they are omnivores but only in very small amounts, and they'll be getting that when pecking around for worms etc. Hens like porridge oats (no milk!) in winter. Camomile tea is nice for them too. They cope with snow really well.

If you want them to free-roam, you can't let them do it over the whole garden, because they have sharp claws and will destroy everything. You could cordon off an area of the garden and put up a wire fence that's dug into the ground. A green wire fence (green chicken wire - very cheap) isn't very visible. I also put fairy lights on the top of mine, so it actually looked quite nice.

If you have a broody hen, you can give them a fake rubber egg and they'll be quite happy with that, but they will stop laying, and might stop coming outside long enough to stay healthy. Generally it's best to just make sure you're removing the eggs quickly enough that they don't get broody.

I think that's it...

They are lovely animals, tons of personality and character. I miss mine a lot.
 
My brother used to keep chickens on our allotment years ago. Best tasting eggs ive ever had. Occasionaly he'd ask me to nut a bullying cock and we'd cook & eat it, fantastic flavoured dense meat . A mile way from the 3 quid a pop shit you get in the supermarket.
 
Bit small, I'd say. As a rule of thumb, UK legislation classes 'free range' as 4m² per hen; what you propose is 0.6.

That's not true. 1msq for ex caged birds, 2msq for ex free-range. That's for the run. They need a minim of 30cmsq sleeping space, so it's got twice that. That coop and run will be fine size-wise.

Keeping two hens is a bad idea because it means that at some point you'll only have one hen, and like I said you need at least two.

 
My brother used to keep chickens on our allotment years ago. Best tasting eggs ive ever had. Occasionaly he'd ask me to nut a bullying cock and we'd cook & eat it, fantastic flavoured dense meat . A mile way from the 3 quid a pop shit you get in the supermarket.
You'd not want a laying hybrid for that though - there's nothing on them. Old(er) breeds would be fine.

Ive had hundreds over the years. I always found electric flexinet kept foxes out even in areas where there were a lot of them. If you have a wire covered run, might be worth running a single strand electric at boot toe level to discourage diggers.
 
My neighbours and I lost our last 12 hens to foxes in 2017. Just this afternoon we were musing whether we’d get any more. We concluded we would not.

The land next to my house is now owned by an idiot whose version of rewilding means it’s weeds and scrub as tall as I am, perfect cover for foxes. I love hens free ranging and wandering through the house, but I wouldn’t risk that again, they’d have to be in a fortress.

I’ve had enough of red mite, awful for the birds, and an infestation will put them off going back inside to roost. Sour crop, foot problems, eye problems, feather-pecking, I’ve stitched wounds and injected antibiotics and nursed injured hens in the kitchen, I’ve had the vet euthanise a couple of beloved cuddly pet chickens, I’ve wrung the necks of many more. But my neighbours and I aren’t young and we don’t want to be doing all that again.

So we surveyed our collection of poultry sheds and feeders and drinkers, my electric fence, their incubators… and then put everything away, because we couldn’t quite say, never again!
 
That's not true. 1msq for ex caged birds, 2msq for ex free-range. That's for the run. They need a minim of 30cmsq sleeping space, so it's got twice that. That coop and run will be fine size-wise.

Keeping two hens is a bad idea because it means that at some point you'll only have one hen, and like I said you need at least two.

I think you'll find 4m² is the legal definition of free range.

And whilst the article you've quoted does say its OK for them to have 2m² of run space, it goes on to say "plus the ability to free range each day", which they wouldn't if kept in the run full time.

I think three in that run is too many. I get the point about only having two, but I think that's fine as long as you replace any that die quite quickly, and better than overcrowding.
 
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If you want them to free-roam, you can't let them do it over the whole garden, because they have sharp claws and will destroy everything. You could cordon off an area of the garden and put up a wire fence that's dug into the ground. A green wire fence (green chicken wire - very cheap) isn't very visible. I also put fairy lights on the top of mine, so it actually looked quite nice.

If you let them roam your vegetable patch they will eat all the slugs before they start on the veggies themselves. Can be a useful method of pest control, provided you keep an eye on them.
 
I think you'll find 4m² is the legal definition of free range.

And whilst the article you've quoted does say its OK for them to have 2m² of run space, it goes on to say "plus the ability to free range each day", which they wouldn't if kept in the run full time.

I think three in that run is too many. I get the point about only having two, but I think that's fine as long as you replace any that for quite quickly, and better than overcrowding.

I think you're getting that from the soil association, which advises 10sqm and says the UK standard is 4sqm. But it says that each hen must have access to space of this size. It does not say that each hen must have that amount of space each.

There are a lot of soil association certified organic eggs out there, and if all the hens laying them had that space, they'd take up half of England.

And it's also much, much, much more than anywhere other than the soil association says, which is between 9-13 hens per square metre of outside space. That is clearly too little, but that's also far more likely to be the reality than that we are living alongside millions of invisible hens.
 
I think you're getting that from the soil association, which advises 10sqm and says the UK standard is 4sqm. But it says that each hen must have access to space of this size. It does not say that each hen must have that amount of space each.

There are a lot of soil association certified organic eggs out there, and if all the hens laying them had that space, they'd take up half of England.

And it's also much, much, much more than anywhere other than the soil association says, which is between 9-13 hens per square metre of outside space. That is clearly too little, but that's also far more likely to be the reality than that we are living alongside millions of invisible hens.
No, I got it from an RSPCA leaflet about the legal requirements for free range. Which says 4m² of space per hen. I'm not sure your interpretation makes sense, else you could keep 100 hens with access to the same 4m². But, equally, you're right that it can't possibly be 4m² each for commercial layers, else even a modest flock of 1,000 chickens would require acres!

Either way, having kept chickens, I'd be worried about having three permanently in a run of the size posted.
 
The 9 hens per square metre thing was also an RSPCA quote about legal requirements. You'd think it'd be a more straightforward answer to find out, wouldn't you?

With ex-battery hens, I do think that space would be fine, especially if they can get out to explore a bit more occasionally.
 
The 9 hens per square metre thing was also an RSPCA quote about legal requirements. You'd think it'd be a more straightforward answer to find out, wouldn't you?

With ex-battery hens, I do think that space would be fine, especially if they can get out to explore a bit more occasionally.
Isn't 9 per m² the limit for barn hens, rather then free range?

You might be right; I've never had ex-battery. Though I understand that's been banned for many years, now.
 
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