Craft club topic of the month - knitting!

[Biddlybee]

Rows will be back and forth and further down it mentions rounds - so, not in the round for the collar.

The notes for the ribbing will be relevant to the yoke, cuffs and bottom of the jumper too

nice jumper btw.

 

[crustychick]

COOL. so, back and forth for the collar - check! wheee - hopefully i'll finish it by winter

oh, and thanks btw help much appreciated!

 

[crustychick]

more questions

hmmm, i might need a lot of help with this!

so, i'm working my first buttonhole, and the instructions say

When you reach the position for the buttonhole, move the yarn forward to the front of the work, slip 1 stitch as if to purl then return the yarn to the back of the work, leaving a bar of yarn in front of the stitch…

but I'm working on the WS of the piece, so, should I move the yarn to the back of the work and slip one stitch as if to knit etc?

 

[Biddlybee]

Maybe wait for someone more experienced, but as your yarn is already forward after the P1, I'd just slip the next stitch then move the yarn to the back, so the yarn still looks like a bar... then carry on with the rest of the buttonhole instructions.

 

[crustychick]

mmmm, although.... if I leave the yarn at the front, then it's technically at the back as I'm working the WS?! urk - confused!

 

[Biddlybee]

When it says bring to front it means of the needles and the way your piece is facing at the time (regardless of right or wrong side). Think of your jumper as having a RS and WS, and then the position of the yarn as 'front' and 'back'. Hope that makes sense, it's late and I'm shattered. So you bring the yarn to the front/back of a stitch not of a side.

 

[crustychick]

yeah, I get that.... but the instruactions for the buttonhole were not part of this pattern. ah fuck it. it's not going to make too much difference

 

[crustychick]

I made a buttonhole *proud*

 

[crustychick]

okay, i have another probably equally dumb question...

Row 8 instructions are thus:

Row 8 [RS]: [C16B, work 16 sts in pattern] -[6, -, 7, -, 8, -] times, C16B, work last 8 sts in pattern.

Now, I get the principle of the cabling I think... but this is at the start of the row so it's confusing me. If I slip the first 8 stitches onto the cable needle, then go to knit the 8 stitches on the left needle - the yarn is still attached to the 8 stitches on the cn... as I've not started knitting the row yet - is this right? or am I being thick

 

[Biddlybee]

Well it's kind of coming from the cable needle, but for other cables it'll come from your righthand needle, just pull it over and you should be ok, and slack shout tighten one you do the cable.

 

[moose]

Are you posting from your phone, diddly?
Because you're holding the first 8 to the back, from the front you won't see the fact you've had to pull over the thread at the start of the row.

 

[Biddlybee]

I wasn't then! shout>should, one>once... but I was trying to imagine knitting in my head.

 

[crustychick]

cool, thanks ladies god, this thread is great - i'd have given up by the first row if it weren't for you lot cheers!

also, I'm using knitting as a smoking replacement - so i'm getting a little bit done every time i would have had a ciggie so you're saving my life, literally, too

 

[Biddlybee]

Has kept me sane through a few projects

I have some kidsilk haze... I'm a bit nervous.

 

[moose]

My tip would be to use wooden needles, it slithers off metal ones too easily.

 

[RubyToogood]

This shawl has been languishing for months with the odd row being done now and then, but have finally finished it.



E2A: ah fuck it, may as well add the posey Ravely pic (ie me posing with it rather than Brian):



The pattern was "Chosen Path" from Ravelry, and I can recommend it, very clear and problem-free.

 

[moose]

That's lovely! Tell Brian to knit his own.

 

[wayward bob]

lovely rubes i <3 shawls.

i'm wondering if anyone can help with a sock heel that i've already knit twice and would like to nail on the 3rd attempt. i've never done a heel flap pattern before so i'm not sure what's going wrong.

you knit the heel flap across 22 stitches, 11 on each needle. here are the heel turn directions:

When heel flap measures 2.5 inches (6 cm), end with a right side row and begin
heel turn:
Purl 13 sts, P2 together, P1 and turn.
K4, K2 together, K1 and turn.
Purl to next to last stitch before the gap (you’ll see it), P2 together, P1 and turn.
Knit to next to last stitch before the gap, K2 together, K1 and turn.
Repeat these last two rows until all stitches have been used, ending on a right side
row.

i followed them as written and the turn wasn't centred, i ended up with spare sitches on the end of the right-side needle. i tried again knitting 6 instead of 4 on the first rs row, which centred the turn but now i have too few stiches left on the needles. i'm supposed to have 7 on each (pick up 15 for a total of 22) but i only have 4. can anyone tell me how many should i be purling across on first ws row and knitting across on the first rs row to get this to work???

or am i misreading the directions? where it says purl to next to last stitch before the gap i'm purling so there are 2 stitches before the gap, purling those together, then purling the first stitch after the gap before i turn. is this right? afaics that wouldn't address the initial problem of the turn being off centre.

haylp!

 

[toggle]

My tip would be to use wooden needles, it slithers off metal ones too easily.

bamboo needles are cheap and nice and sticky. good deals on sets of them on ebay.

 

[wayward bob]

woo fixed it i found out there's definitely en error in the pattern - several people on ravelry mention it, but no-one says how to fix it

i ended up purling across 13 (2 stitches into second needle) before working the p2tog, then knitting back until i was 2 stitches into the first needle and working the k2tog there. that combined with working the p/k2togs across the gap rather than before it gives me the right number of finished stitches

 

[Biddlybee]

Gorgeous shawl Ruby

My tip would be to use wooden needles, it slithers off metal ones too easily.

I see what you mean. Not dropped any yet, but it is quite slippy.

Looked in three shops for the right size wooden ones then gave up and ordered a pair of knit pros (are circular needles still a pair?)

 

[moose]

A set! I love mine, they converted me to circulars (well for some projects at least)

 

[Biddlybee]

But it's not the big set, only a 5.5mm set. Ooh... I didn't know you'd turned I love circulars, even if I'm not knitting in the round.

 

[wayward bob]

i have a growing collection of addi clicks that i love but they don't attract the wtf?!s you get from non-knitters when you're knitting on 5 dpns

 

[Biddlybee]

I think I've just got normal addi's. I convinced myself a while back that I wouldn't need an interchangable set

 

[moose]

Ooh... I didn't know you'd turned I love circulars, even if I'm not knitting in the round.

My skull cardi and a couple of other one-piece knits recently have forced me to use them, but it still doesn't feel natural. I'd rather use straights.

 

[Biddlybee]

My needles still aren't here

 

[wayward bob]

where did you get them bee? i've always been lucky getting needles on ebay, they often come next day.

 

[Biddlybee]

I realised I ordered them to home not the office, so they might've come today

They didn't have the size I wanted on ebay, so a random knitting shop in Cambridge.

 

[semi furious]

I love my Addi turbos. And I think that if you tend to have more than one project on the go, the Click set is a bit useless anyway - you only get 3 cords, don't you?

A question. The pattern says " when entire garment measure 25 (30) cm bind off 2-2-1 (2-2-1) sts at the g of the row (=front edge) and 2-1 (2-1) sts at the beg of the wrong side rows (=back edge) for the gusset." They mean on 5 successive rows, right?