Craft club topic of the month - knitting!

[RubyToogood]

Actually it's hardly worth it with small things - by the time you've done the square you may as well have done half the hat.

 

[Biddlybee]

Finished my gloves, and made this last night

Tank top shouldn't be long now... maybe a couple of weeks

 

[RubyToogood]

For anyone that struggles with kitchener stitch as I do (I've always had to keep looking at the diagrams every time I put the needle through a stitch), have a read of this: http://knittersblog.com/blog/techniques/kitchener-stitch/ Suddenly it all makes sense to me and now I can do it from memory.

Strange that it should be easier to understand from text than from pictures.

 

[Biddlybee]

Tank top shouldn't be long now... maybe a couple of weeks

Or a couple of months

Does anyone here subscribe to Knit Simple?

 

[RubyToogood]

Well I've managed to get my cardigan finished just in time for spring... the point of it being that it was supposed to enable me to wear summer dresses through the winter. But I think it would have been too cold anyhow and I've got it on today and feel just right.

 

[Biddlybee]

That is bloody lovely Rubes

 

[innit]

she's not wrong

 

[RubyToogood]

I am not displeased myself as it goes.

 

[Hellsbells]

wow, that looks impressive - scarily complicated looking patterns there!
I struggle to knit a normal row in one colour without dropping a stitch

 

[Biddlybee]

Quick questions for the knitting experts... is an invisible seam or backstitch stronger for the seam of a jumper? I'm worried it might be a little bit tight when made up (and I did do a swatch) so was thinking an invisible seam might give me an extra few mm

 

[moose]

I like a backstitch meself, more sturdy. Have you tried blocking it bigger?

Nice work, Ruby!

 

[Biddlybee]

I had a feeling that might be the stronger of the two. I haven't really blocked it... I don't know how to... things I read mention boards and pins

 

[Biddlybee]

I think I better google blocking before I sew it up

 

[moose]

If the pieces are small enough, you can get away with using an ironing board. Can make a big difference to size, though, if you need something to go a bit bigger. Or even smaller.
Ruby's the expert, so hopefully she'll be along shortly with board and pin advice - I take too many dodgy shortcuts

http://knitting.about.com/od/learntoknit/a/blocking_knits.htm

 

[Biddlybee]

Cheers moose. It's not that small, because I'm not that narrow and I've already sewn the shoulders together. It's a vest/tanktop, but at the mo looks like a tabbard.

It's wool, and another site I read says to wet it then pin out to dry. You don't need special pins do you? And the only thing I've got to pin it to is one of those old style camping roll mats... will that work ok?

The pattern just said to press it, so I've already done that with a cool iron

 

[toggle]

pins, towel on the floor in front of the fireplace. pin through towel into carpet. camping may would be perfect once you've weighted it down

if you want exactly straight edges, sew some heavy cotton through the edge and pin that.

 

[Biddlybee]

Not got a fireplace toggle.

Think I'll pin it out and do the damp sheet over the top, then steam through it (unless Rubes comes along and shouts NO)... don't think I'll finish it this weekend

It tapers towards the bottom so isn't meant to be straight. I know I have to learn, but really don't want to fuck this up

 

[toggle]

Not got a fireplace toggle.

Think I'll pin it out and do the damp sheet over the top, then steam through it (unless Rubes comes along and shouts NO)... don't think I'll finish it this weekend

It tapers towards the bottom so isn't meant to be straight. I know I have to learn, but really don't want to fuck this up

anywhere warmish, where it will dry in a couple of days

 

[Biddlybee]

Ok i'm off out in a bit, so will pin it out when I get home.

 

[Biddlybee]

One last question (for now)... could I not block it once I'd sewn it together? Then i'd know how much it needs to grow/shrink. If I'd knit it in the round it'd be one piece.

 

[toggle]

One last question (for now)... could I not block it once I'd sewn it together? Then i'd know how much it needs to grow/shrink. If I'd knit it in the round it'd be one piece.

blocking beforehand helps with neat seaming.
work out how harshly to block by measuring it

 

[Biddlybee]

Ok. Front and back do match perfectly to seam, I just think it might need to be wider.

I'm guessing if something will fit perfectly you don't need to block?

 

[toggle]

Ok. Front and back do match perfectly to seam, I just think it might need to be wider.

I'm guessing if something will fit perfectly you don't need to block?

i'd steam it then.

 

[RubyToogood]

If you want to know what the fit's going to be like just pin it together and try it on - that'll give you a pretty good idea. Other than that you sound pretty sorted!

It really is worth blocking, specially with colourwork. That cardi above was way too tight before blocking, and very wodgey and thick - blocking sorted it out a treat.

oh and don't forget most patterns give you a diagram of the bits with dimensions - that'll help you when pinning them out.

 

[Biddlybee]

Ah, there is a diagram at the back. Cheers

 

[toggle]

If you want to know what the fit's going to be like just pin it together and try it on - that'll give you a pretty good idea. Other than that you sound pretty sorted!

It really is worth blocking, specially with colourwork. That cardi above was way too tight before blocking, and very wodgey and thick - blocking sorted it out a treat.

oh and don't forget most patterns give you a diagram of the bits with dimensions - that'll help you when pinning them out.

those tiny hair clawgrips they sell in places like claires are good for pinning something together to try it on or hold it in place while sewing

 

[Biddlybee]

Pinned down, steamed and left to dry. Am keeping my fingers very tightly crossed.

 

[gaijingirl]

pathetic post from me.. I'm completely cross-eyed knackered but somehow managed to promise a friend to knit a sweater for her not-yet-born baby( she's having twins and i'm doing one and a friend the other)... I have some Rowan Calmer here at home but my pattern calls for Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran - can I use the Calmer? I can't remember how to figure it out and I'm too tired to try to find out and I know someone here will know the answer...

 

[moose]

Bee - make sure you're using rust=proof pins if your yarn is pale coloured, or they might stain.

GG: As you can see below, there's a significant difference in yardage, and a fair difference in gauge. You could use Calmer, which is closer to a dk) but you'd have to use bigger needles and get a looser knit (and Calmer's quite fine and stretchy). I'd do a tension square with 5.5mm needles and see how it goes. If it's nowhere near, use something different.

Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran
length: 90m x 50g ball
tension: 18sts x 24 rows per 10cm
needles: 5mm (US 8) (conversion chart)

Rowan Calmer
length: 160m per 50g ball
tension: 21sts x 30 rows per 10cm
needles: 5mm

 

[gaijingirl]

Thanks Moose! I'll give it a go with the tension square - or might just buy the proper yarn maybe? I've left it a bit late to be messing about...