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Craft club topic of the month - knitting!

I am convinced :) but I must be disciplined and use up the yarn I have first and then buy some more for the cardy.... I will be good, I will!

It takes very little wool though, it took me nearly half what it would take to make any other jumper. If you were careful and shopped around you could probably do it really cheaply. Frinstance, I reckon that if you were a medium and went for New Lanark aran, you would only need 6 balls: total £17 plus P+P.

http://newlanarkshop.co.uk/shop.php?view=category&category=91
 
Ah, I'm using their silk tweed for my tank top (which will be cast on this weekend) but I think I need something softer for the cardy, if there's a chance I might wear vests under it... I'm itchy lady remember :(

But 600g of aran shouldn't be too much, I will be able to get a deal somewhere :)

I just need to do this tank top first, although a cardy is more practical for summer :hmm: how long did it take to knit?
 
Ah, I'm using their silk tweed for my tank top (which will be cast on this weekend) but I think I need something softer for the cardy, if there's a chance I might wear vests under it... I'm itchy lady remember :(

But 600g of aran shouldn't be too much, I will be able to get a deal somewhere :)

I just need to do this tank top first, although a cardy is more practical for summer :hmm: how long did it take to knit?

It took me about 6 weeks to knit, and i'm an incredibely slow knitter. I reckon if you could dedicate several entire days to it, you could probably do it in a few weeks.
 
This is like kniting peer pressure :D

6 weeks isn't too bad at all, but it'll take me a few weeks to decide which colour and what type of wool :oops:
 
Sorry if this is a silly question, but what exactly is 'blocking'?

From what i've read, it seems to be just soaking the finished knitted garment in water and leaving to dry....?
Is this absoultely necessary?
The cardigan i've knitted is exactly the right size for me at the moment, and i'm worried it'll stretch if i 'block' it.
 
I've never done it :oops: but it is wetting the garment and then stretching into the shape and size you need/want it (I think). Almost like you do when you wash knitted things anyway... when the label says reshape when wet.
 
Well, blocking is a fine art in itself (http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEwinter02/FEATdiyknitter.html ).

But if it fits you exactly I wouldn't block the garter stitch bits, which don't really need it anyway. It'll help the lace though - it's really important to block lace because it smooths out all the bumps and makes it lie flat correctly. You could just press it lightly with a warm iron through a damp tea towel (depending on what you've made it out of).
 
In other news I've abandoned my attempts to be disciplined and give up knitting in favour of sewing and finishing the thing I'm crocheting, and have cast on for the Coraline cardigan: http://ysolda.com/store/sweaters/coraline/ The idea is to make it shorter, with shorter sleeves, so it's more of a sort of little cardigan I can wear with a summer dress.
I've made that. It's lovely, but the fronts curl in excessively and drive me mad on mine :(
 
Has anyone made this?
http://www.elann.com/ShowFreePattern.asp?Id=104024

It's a bit ambitious for me, not least because there is no gauge for the cardie shown to help me to adjust to fit. The increases are on purl rows; I have been hoicking my needle through the back of the loop on the lh needle, purling, then purling the stitch again normally.

You have to do this either side of a marker and I'm doing it the same way both sides. It looks OK, but I'm wondering if anyone knows a method that would look better. I want to do this perfectly!
 
Seeing as my bolero thing was a success, I'm going to have a go at knitting a tank top... like this but in different colours (thank you eme)... but a bit worried about changing colours in the middle of a row and following a chart :eek:
Only 8 months later and I'm going to cast this on :D

Not too sure what size to do it though :confused:

It says, to fit bust 36in the actual size under the arms will be 39in - that seems really big and loose.
 
Has anyone made this?
http://www.elann.com/ShowFreePattern.asp?Id=104024

It's a bit ambitious for me, not least because there is no gauge for the cardie shown to help me to adjust to fit. The increases are on purl rows; I have been hoicking my needle through the back of the loop on the lh needle, purling, then purling the stitch again normally.

You have to do this either side of a marker and I'm doing it the same way both sides. It looks OK, but I'm wondering if anyone knows a method that would look better. I want to do this perfectly!

I like the pattern! You should be fine just trying it on as you go for fit - that's the beauty of top down.

As for the increases, the ideal is to have them slanting in opposite directions on either side of the centre stitch. There are various ways of doing paired increases (she said vaguely and did a bit of googling)... Techknitter is usually right and she recommends this method: http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2007/03/two-handy-knitted-increases-one.html Hope that's comprehensible, if not, try looking on Youtube for vids.


Only 8 months later and I'm going to cast this on :D

Not too sure what size to do it though :confused:

It says, to fit bust 36in the actual size under the arms will be 39in - that seems really big and loose.

Well, make the next size or two down then. No reason why you can't make it more close fitting. Depends what you want to wear underneath of course. You can even make it an inch or so smaller than your measurements for a really close fit. Both the Feb Lady and Coraline I'm making with no ease at all. Other jumpers have had lots of ease. I've never done one with negative ease yet but there's always a first time...
 
Thing is the bust size is perfect as 36, it's the other bit that doesn't seem to correspond.

It's the same if you go down a size: 34 bust = 37 under the arms, 32 bust = 34.5 under the arms.
 
The bust size is the size of you, the measurement under the arms is the size of the garment at the same point.

So the garment that is intended to fit a 36" bust will in fact be 39", so you have 3" of ease - space between you and it for allowing you to move, for wearing thick things underneath or for fashion. The current fashion is for not much ease if any whereas in the 80s you might have something with 10" of ease, or in the 50s minus 2", sweater girl style). Given that it's presumably a pattern that's a few years old being Jaeger, it might be reflecting the fashion of the time and be a bit baggy.

You can always knit the next size down and you'll just have one inch of ease.

I suggest trying on something you've already got that fits the way you'd like this to fit, and measuring it. Then you make the size that gives you a finished measurement that is about the same.

Does that make sense?

Don't forget:

1. Your tension may be slightly off anyway, but you can make this work in your favour. For instance for the Feb Lady my tension was too big (slightly thicker wool) so I made a size too small and it came out about right. You need to do some maths to check this though.
2. You can always make things a bit bigger by blocking (don't forget to wash and block your tension square)
3. The colourwork sections may affect your tension so it's a good idea to do a square incorporating colourwork
 
I've made that. It's lovely, but the fronts curl in excessively and drive me mad on mine :(
I can see how that would happen... I've just got to the second half of the hem where you start slipping the first 3 stitches of every row, which is distinctly unusual. I'm a bit confused about whether I'm meant to strand the wool loosely behind or pull it up so the 3 stitches make a little tube.
 
The bust size is the size of you, the measurement under the arms is the size of the garment at the same point.

So the garment that is intended to fit a 36" bust will in fact be 39", so you have 3" of ease - space between you and it for allowing you to move, for wearing thick things underneath or for fashion. The current fashion is for not much ease if any whereas in the 80s you might have something with 10" of ease, or in the 50s minus 2", sweater girl style). Given that it's presumably a pattern that's a few years old being Jaeger, it might be reflecting the fashion of the time and be a bit baggy.

You can always knit the next size down and you'll just have one inch of ease.

I suggest trying on something you've already got that fits the way you'd like this to fit, and measuring it. Then you make the size that gives you a finished measurement that is about the same.

Does that make sense?

Don't forget:

1. Your tension may be slightly off anyway, but you can make this work in your favour. For instance for the Feb Lady my tension was too big (slightly thicker wool) so I made a size too small and it came out about right. You need to do some maths to check this though.
2. You can always make things a bit bigger by blocking (don't forget to wash and block your tension square)
3. The colourwork sections may affect your tension so it's a good idea to do a square incorporating colourwork

Cheers Rubes, eme explained ease to me last night... i'd never even heard the term before! But think it makes sense now, and allowing 3" seems about right. I wrapped a tape measure round me and had a jiggle around and felt like it would be fitted but not too tight :) is that a good enough indicator?

Should I be blocking my tension square then? My tension was spot on, so I just cast on :oops: haven't knitted many rows yet though.
 
It was a new one on me, but yes you should block your tension square. Or at least wash it, let it dry and see how stretchy it is. It's a bit of a mystery to me HOW you're supposed to block it actually because it can't be that representative of what you do to a finished jumper. Yarn can grow or shrink when washed though so it's worth checking.
 
Ok i'll do that before I knit any more. Really hope I don't fuck this up and end up with something too big... I guess it's all a learning curve.
 
I can see how that would happen... I've just got to the second half of the hem where you start slipping the first 3 stitches of every row, which is distinctly unusual. I'm a bit confused about whether I'm meant to strand the wool loosely behind or pull it up so the 3 stitches make a little tube.

Mines halfway between - loosely tubey. Maybe that's why it curls.
 
I had another look at the ones on Ravelry after you said that and a proportion of them do roll under a bit towards the bottom of the front edge. Not all of them though. No idea what causes it. What wool did you use?
 
Where do you guys get your knitting patterns from?

I'm ready to start a new knitting project and have a vague idea of what i want to knit - I just need a pattern for it! And preferably a free one.
Have trawled through hundreds of patterns on Ravelry but haven't yet managed to find what i want.
Is there somewhere better to go to for free patterns?
 
Where do you guys get your knitting patterns from?

I'm ready to start a new knitting project and have a vague idea of what i want to knit - I just need a pattern for it! And preferably a free one.
Have trawled through hundreds of patterns on Ravelry but haven't yet managed to find what i want.
Is there somewhere better to go to for free patterns?

Primarily Rowan patterns (not free), Knitty and Ravelry (including following links off Ravelry).

What is it you're looking for?
 
Sorry - your BOLD and ORIGINAL choice of wool ;)

I think that must be the problem though - no-one else's seems to roll up to that degree, it's very slight on the ones I noticed it on.
 
what does everyone reckon of my chances of learning to knit a hat in time for babies arrival in september?

i can knit, but have never followed a pattern in my life :hmm:
 
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