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Craft club topic of the month - knitting!

None of these patterns are absolutely spot on for me - Spook for instance I don't like the neckline on. So I may have to do some faffing around.

What are your front runners from the book? Mine are Pixie and Sylph. I would probably knit them at a slightly looser gauge though so that they are a bit more see-through, as that to me is the whole point of KSH.
 
Where's the best place to peruse knitting patterns/books? I need to knit myself a shawl/small cardy type thing for a wedding in Sept - and not sure where to start.
 
BiddlyBee said:
Where's the best place to peruse knitting patterns/books? I need to knit myself a shawl/small cardy type thing for a wedding in Sept - and not sure where to start.
Click to expand...
Ravelry. Except that you can end up doing it for hours... What sort of thing did you have in mind?
 
Decreasing in a ribbed section - my first time.

It's really important that this looks right, not only are the cuffs ribbed but the hem of a wrap-over cardigan also so this decreasing could be very obvious if not perfect.

For an even edge, I decrease one stitch in. So far so good, but where does that leave me with the knit/purl thing? Do I continue with knit/knit for the first two stitches until the next decrease or change my first, originally knit stitch to a purl one?

Over to you, wise ones!

PS Am using simple knit/purl two together for the decreases. Any better suggestions?
 
I've actually never come across a pattern where there is shaping in the ribbing (except for hats). Sorry if it's patronising but are you sure that's right?
 
Well I have found an answer; make sure the knit stitches stay to the front of the work, ie use ssso for a knit/purl decrease and k2tog for a purl/knit decrease. And don't worry about sticking to rib pattern; knit the knits and purl the purls and nobody will be any the wiser. I shall try a test patch tonight and report back.
 
dear rubytoogood and eme,

thank you soooooooooooooo much for the little hat and cardie for the baby. we are gobsmacked how beautifully crafted both pieces are. if i see you at countryfair ruby small one will hopefully wear it. although its almost too good to put on him. he possetts so much.

hat will go on photo of official photo appt next week

:)
xx
 
I'll know who to come to for help then ;)

Not read through the pattern properly, but at a quick glance it looked straightforward-ish.
 
42 went up to a 22 I think...

Have you got a copy? Is there anything that would solve the laceweight mohair question for us do you think?
 
RubyToogood said:
Funnily enough I'm doing that pattern myself at the mo.
Click to expand...

BiddlyBee said:
I'll know who to come to for help then ;)

Not read through the pattern properly, but at a quick glance it looked straightforward-ish.
Click to expand...
Getting ready to start :eek: :D

I've done a tester (not on right size needles)... but does this look right to you Rubes? Don't want to cast on the whole bloody thing if I'm not certain what I'm doing.

dsc01159nf6.jpg


Sorry for crap photo, only got my phone to hand. Ta :)
 
Yes that looks right. I'm hoping the right size needles are a bit bigger? That looks a fraction tight to me.

I was just thinking about you actually because on mine I've got to the point near the end where you transition back to the ribbing and you have to use a cable needle. It took me a while to figure out what the pattern meant and I was thinking I'd better make a note now of what it means for your benefit... It says "CF1" and CB1". It means transfer one stitch onto a cable needle and hold it to the front of the work (CF1) or back (CB1). Then you do the bit in brackets. Once you've done a few it makes sense.
 
RubyToogood said:
Yes that looks right. I'm hoping the right size needles are a bit bigger? That looks a fraction tight to me.

I was just thinking about you actually because on mine I've got to the point near the end where you transition back to the ribbing and you have to use a cable needle. It took me a while to figure out what the pattern meant and I was thinking I'd better make a note now of what it means for your benefit... It says "CF1" and CB1". It means transfer one stitch onto a cable needle and hold it to the front of the work (CF1) or back (CB1). Then you do the bit in brackets. Once you've done a few it makes sense.
Click to expand...
Yer, they were 4.5mm needles and I think the actual piece is done on 5.5-6mm

Cheers, that's only one row of the cabling isn't it? Then back to the ribbing so it matches the bottom?
 
:mad:

I wanted to have a nice afternoon knitting, but just cast on and already come to my first bloody problem! :(

The pattern says to slip one stitch at the beginning of each row for a nicer finish... fair enough.

Row 1: p2 k2 to last 2 stitches, p2

I've cast on 98 stitches, so slipping one stitch then brings the number of stitches down to 97... so if I'm doing a p2 k2 row I get to the end of the row with only one stitch left not 2, so how can I p2 at the end?

:confused:
 
Oh yeah, it's a stupid mistake by the writer. She tells you to slip the first stitch of every row and then ignores her own instruction. So although she tells you to start the first row p2, in actual fact you should start it slip 1, p1.

She is right though, slipping that first stitch makes a much better edge - watch out for yourself forgetting to do it.
 
ah, so then on row 2 it'd be slip 1, k1...etc?

bugger... do I unknit or just unravel it all and cast on again? hmmmm....

also, she doesn't seem to have a RS or WS does it matter when you come to the lace pattern?
 
Also (last question for now I promise) when you get to the lace pattern and you slip 1, do you then just carry on with the row: k1, (k2tog, yo, yo ssk) til the end, k1? Or do you ignore the first k1 as you've slipped?

I was going to do the former, as I've still got the right number of stitches, but better to check eh?
 
BiddlyBee said:
ah, so then on row 2 it'd be slip 1, k1...etc?
Click to expand...

Yes.

also, she doesn't seem to have a RS or WS does it matter when you come to the lace pattern?
Click to expand...

I was about to say no, but actually I think it might do. I started the lace row on the side where if you were still ribbing you'd do sl1 p1, and it looks like the picture. Maybe if you started on the sl1 k1 side, it would be different.
 
BiddlyBee said:
Also (last question for now I promise) when you get to the lace pattern and you slip 1, do you then just carry on with the row: k1, (k2tog, yo, yo ssk) til the end, k1? Or do you ignore the first k1 as you've slipped?

I was going to do the former, as I've still got the right number of stitches, but better to check eh?
Click to expand...

The latter I think: sl1, k2tog. I think she tacked on the bit about slipping the first stitch after she actually wrote the pattern or something.

I could just come round and knit it for you if you like? Might be easier :p ;)
 
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