Fuck me, the Guardian knows how to misrepresent a study, doesn't it?
This is the study in question:
Freisling, H., Viallon, V., Lennon, H., Bagnardi, V., Ricci, C., Butterworth, A.S., Sweeting, M., Muller, D., Romieu, I., Bazelle, P. and Kvaskoff, M., 2020. Lifestyle factors and risk of multimorbidity of cancer and cardiometabolic diseases: a multinational cohort study. BMC medicine, 18, pp.1-11.
And they've cherry picked this singular phrase (italics did not make it to the Guardian: "Among UPF subgroups, higher intakes of artificially and sugar-sweetened beverages, and animal-based products were associated with higher risk of multimorbidity, as was higher consumption of sauces, spreads and condiments, but with less certainty. In contrast, ultra-processed breads and cereals showed an inverse association with the risk of multimorbidity,
but with a borderline certainty. Sweets and desserts, savory snacks, plant-based alternatives, ready-to eat/heat and mixed dishes were not associated with risk of multimorbidity."
If you think that that final sentence means they are fine, it just means in this case they didn't find an association, but its really very hard to isolate these things in a human based observational study.
They go on to say (my additions in bold): "Mechanisms by which UPFs may influence the risk of chronic diseases and multimorbidity are
not completely understood.
One explanation would be their effect on increased weight gain. Obesity represents an important risk factor for morbidity and may initiate and promote progression to multimorbidity.
Many UPFs have higher energy density (calories per weight or volume) in combination with an altered food matrix which leads to a softer texture for less chewing and delays satiety signalling. However, adjusting for BMI in our main model did attenuate but not annul the association between UPFs and multimorbidity implying additional mechanistic pathways.
Diets with a high proportion of UPFs have been associated with a lower nutritional quality such as lower intake of dietary fiber and vitamins, and a higher intake of free sugars and saturated fat.
However, nutritional characteristics of UPFs may again only partially explain mechanistic pathways leading to health outcomes. For example, in a prospective cohort study from Italy, adjustment for nutritional composition of the diet using the Food Standards Agency Nutrient Profiling System (FSAm-NPS) did not attenuate associations between UPF consumption and all cause and cardiovascular mortality.
Similarly, the adjustment for diet quality in our study, using the Mediterranean diet score, suggests that UPF consumption plays a role in the development of cancer and cardiometabolic disease multimorbidity beyond the nutritional characteristics of UPFs.
Furthermore, the Mediterranean diet score indirectly also accounted for red meat (and dairy) consumption because higher consumption of these leads to a lower Mediterranean diet score and vice versa.
The positive association of ultra-processed animal-based products with multimorbidity in our study are therefore likely explained by non-nutritional aspects of this subgroup of UPFs.
Non-nutritional mechanisms through which UPFs could be hazardous for health include, but are not limited to, alteration of the food matrix, inclusion of certain food additives during processing (e.g., aspartame), and contaminants from packaging material (e.g., bisphenol A). Any of these may affect endocrine pathways or the gut microbiome, and contribute to subsequent disease risk."
(and are prevalent in meat substitutes)
Finally, they note these as a limitation of their study: "First, the Nova classification was implemented on dietary data captured more than 20 years ago at recruitment of participants into EPIC" (
how prevalent were meat substitutes 20 years ago? Has their composition not chanced since then?)
and: "we cannot exclude the possibility that
unmeasured confounding, such as family history of (premature) cancer and cardiometabolic disease, could have affected the results. Lastly,
our findings should be generalized with caution because study participants may not always be representative of the general population (ie they've chosen people by design who have had diseases and not looked at what healthy people eat) and only seven of the 10 countries in the EPIC study were included."