The gardening thread

[campanula]

[

Couldn't see a reference to Chillingworth hoe though -

Ah, that's because I am an idiot - it is, in fact, a ChillngTON hoe...and is a very heavy duty digging tool. The little daisy grubbe is great for dandelions but not terribly effective on brambles tbh. It's all about leverage...hence a nice long pole with prongs set at a right angle to the shaft.
eta Double headed Chillington "Crocodile" Hoe Weeding Digging Borders Clay Breaking | eBay

 

[two sheds]

Looks like they call it a Canterbury hoe/fork, too. But yes you're right leverage is going to be the key to brambles. I'll look through my tools - I bought loads of tools from the auction across the road and you buy one thing and get 27 others in the same batch.

Eta: it's the birds I blame they eat all the blackberries and then sit on branches and shit everywhere

 

[wayward bob]

<shuts eyes to tool talk>

spent some quality time with my orange tree today, given it a feed and a going over for scale

 

[Artaxerxes]

Went out to plot today, good Lord is it wet. Ground waterlogged to hell, one bed uncovered was a swamp. Goodbye last carrots...

Took the risk and moved some tarp to plant onions out. Was to wet to do much else, pity because it was a perfect sunny day to be out.

 

[wayward bob]

hope it drains soon artax.

most of my natives are showing signs of getting moving now the armful of optimistic "cuttings" i brought home from the park aren't looking overly promising, except for one, if i even get one i'll be stoked.

 

[iona]

SPIDERFUCKINGMITES

 

[two sheds]

SPIDERFUCKINGMITES

I used neem oil which did work eventually. You probably know about it though.

 

[iona]

I used neem oil which did work eventually. You probably know about it though.

Yeah, tend to just use an initial blast under the shower then regular inspections + squishing with extreme prejudice when leaf shapes allow it, but I'm gonna get some this time. Noticed some webbing on my windowsill herbs too but I think that's just my habit of relocating fridge spiders there

Flat is already full of carpet beetles and silverfish so maybe I should just introduce some predatory spidermite-eating insects for the lols

 

[wayward bob]

blackthorn

 

[campanula]

SPIDERFUCKINGMITES

Yep, red spider is the bane of every indoor grower (of anything). While I have tried every sort of horticultural oil, manual squishing, hosing and such, the only way I have found is to bring out the chemical cosh with abamectin. While miticides are available online, they are very spendy. I bought 500ml of Dynamec for £90+ ...which lasted me for years. Last year, I bought some Floramite off the internet - someone who buys it by the litre and splits it into 10ml bottles for £10. One treatment is very effective - kills the mites and eggs and has been the only reliable way of dealing with spidermite (I am operating a continuous grow-room). I know sulphur bombs can be effective but the toxicity is undirected and very high.
Had to ditch a lot of organic principles when I became a pro-gardener...but there is a lot to be said for IPM (Integrated Pest management)

 

[RubyToogood]

My all-time favourite apple.

My very best fruit producers are the cherries (I have 2) but are not without problems. They absolutely have to be netted to produce a crop (because every pigeon and blackbird in Cambridge feasts on them) but I get a crop in July (Lapins/Cherokee) and another in August (Sweetheart). Also, I am trialling an apricot this year (supposedly resistant to peach leaf curl). Apples and pears need a partner but plums, cherries and other stone fruit are self-fertile...and then again, there are pluots and other such hybrids as well as some interesting fruits such as Juneberries, aronia, saskatoons etc. The squirrel;s discovered my filberts so suspect bountiful nut harvests are numbered too.

I love my fruit trees for the blossom as much as the crops. My almond is in full bloom now and lights up the whole plot...but produces bizarre fruit - a sort of hybrid between almond and peach which crops softshelled green almonds used in Middle Eastern cooking but not really beloved by me (although I do still eat the small kernels).

I have seen a layout of your garden Ruby - basically sound, well proportioned and accessible. Spend spare cash on decent paths and you are good to go.

Thanks for this validation. The makeover is under way!

 

[campanula]

Back last autumn, I must have felt it was a good idea to sow 160 sweet pea seeds. I have made a couple of obelisks from hazel poles and pea sticks and planted...40. Which leaves 120, rapidly expanding plantlets. My remaining customers don't want them - though they are beautiful, they need daily picking or they rapidly run to seed (and look awful).
And this sorry tale will be a recurring annoyance this summer (and every summer) because I am addicted to unsaleable, ephemeral annual flowers which are almost universally derided in the horticultural community. I grow too many for my garden and allotment...but not enough to make boot sales or market stalls viable (not that it's really on to sell centaureas, calendulas, chamomiles and other fleeting plants).. So, as usual, I have to poke them into any spaces around my neighbourhood and force the offspring to provide temporary homes.
Then...there are offsets. A handful of auriculas have yielded many dozens of these old fashioned whimsical primulas....
I have just pricked out 3 dozen ??? - could be cowslips, oxslips or bloody weedy nipplewort. I am now off to make a bonfire and rescue another area for potatoes.
I need reining in.

 

[campanula]

160 sweet pea seeds.

All of which appear to be in the exact same narrow colour range (despite 8 different varieties) - blues and lilacs!

 

[two sheds]

I've put loads in again this year - they do ok until they get to be seedlings then they sort of don't do anything and die off

Still can't believe I've got a nasturtium overwintered in the conservatory though - it's still huge and quite healthy looking. Last year was first year I've successfully grown them.

 

[RubyToogood]

I am knee deep in trying to calculate landscaping materials and order them online. I've realised that my path layout isn't practical because it conflicts too much with the fruit trees so I'm abolishing all the outer paths (this is fine, it'll be cheaper and I'll put some nice stepping stones in instead) and more seriously nobody will deliver gravel in bulk to me because I live on a hill

 

[campanula]

I am knee deep in trying to calculate landscaping materials and order them online. I've realised that my path layout isn't practical because it conflicts too much with the fruit trees so I'm abolishing all the outer paths (this is fine, it'll be cheaper and I'll put some nice stepping stones in instead) and more seriously nobody will deliver gravel in bulk to me because I live on a hill

Yep, you only need access to the back of bushes for pruning, so paths can be fairly rudimentary. Alarmed at the gravel difficulties. Hills are not usually an issue for a socking great flatbed lorry with a HIAB...and the gravel comes in tonne bags. Have you tried ordering directly from your nearest quarry? If you can stretch to it - I honestly recommend getting gravel which is 'self-binding, such as Bredon Gold. It has a degree of limestone in which will crumble and eventually fill in all the interstices between stones, making a nice impermeable path...without recourse to landscape membrane (don't use this anyway - it doesn't work and creates more problems in the long term. If you have any queries, PM me - I did landscaping for more than a decade including all the estimates and pricing. Mostly, you will need to spend time and money on the edging (to hold the gravel in place. Timber can be used but requires some really tough bending and staking for curved paths. otherwise concrete or brick edging will really be the backbone of the path system (I used the cheapest block paving for mine).

 

[RubyToogood]

Yep, you only need access to the back of bushes for pruning, so paths can be fairly rudimentary. Alarmed at the gravel difficulties. Hills are not usually an issue for a socking great flatbed lorry with a HIAB...and the gravel comes in tonne bags. Have you tried ordering directly from your nearest quarry? If you can stretch to it - I honestly recommend getting gravel which is 'self-binding, such as Bredon Gold. It has a degree of limestone in which will crumble and eventually fill in all the interstices between stones, making a nice impermeable path...without recourse to landscape membrane (don't use this anyway - it doesn't work and creates more problems in the long term. If you have any queries, PM me - I did landscaping for more than a decade including all the estimates and pricing. Mostly, you will need to spend time and money on the edging (to hold the gravel in place. Timber can be used but requires some really tough bending and staking for curved paths. otherwise concrete or brick edging will really be the backbone of the path system (I used the cheapest block paving for mine).

I'm OK for edging as the gravel will sit within existing paved areas. It doesn't come on a HIAB but a tail lift lorry which I think is the problem. I only need one bulk bag. Interesting about the self-binding stuff. Is it still water permeable?

 

[campanula]

I'm OK for edging as the gravel will sit within existing paved areas. It doesn't come on a HIAB but a tail lift lorry which I think is the problem. I only need one bulk bag. Interesting about the self-binding stuff. Is it still water permeable?

Yep. My local cemetery had all the paths redone 2 years ago. Bredon Gold is also used in a number of NT properties too. Yes, it is water permeable but there are a couple of caveats. Like old fashioned hoggin, it will crumble a bit, getting in the treads of your shoes and can create issues if you have hardwood flooring. The NT had to invest in large doormats. After a season of weathering and general use, the surface does stabilise and bind well: resists being kicked out of place, lets water pass through (doesn't erode and collect puddles) and holds its shape really well. I was initially a bit sceptical but am sold on it now. Costwise, it sells for around £90 per tonne (compared to £45 for 10 or 20mm gravel or around £60-70 for pea shingle*...but won't need topping up and can be raked, blown or even swept (leaves). Ideally, it should be rolled but for domestic use, you can get away with jumping up and down on planks sitting on top of the laid paths. Where it really does come up trumps is the weed resistance. Afaic, most gravel substrates are ideal weed beds for weeds...and landscape fabric will not prevent this (although it will hinder the growth of deep roots). The tighter surface of a self-binding medium definitely discourages seedlings from bedding in. It is also a soft, sympathetic look for a garden which is not rigidly formal.

* been a couple of years since I stopped doing landscaping so my prices might be a bit off...and there will be VAT.

 

[RubyToogood]

Yep. My local cemetery had all the paths redone 2 years ago. Bredon Gold is also used in a number of NT properties too. Yes, it is water permeable but there are a couple of caveats. Like old fashioned hoggin, it will crumble a bit, getting in the treads of your shoes and can create issues if you have hardwood flooring. The NT had to invest in large doormats. After a season of weathering and general use, the surface does stabilise and bind well: resists being kicked out of place, lets water pass through (doesn't erode and collect puddles) and holds its shape really well. I was initially a bit sceptical but am sold on it now. Costwise, it sells for around £90 per tonne (compared to £45 for 10 or 20mm gravel or around £60-70 for pea shingle*...but won't need topping up and can be raked, blown or even swept (leaves). Ideally, it should be rolled but for domestic use, you can get away with jumping up and down on planks sitting on top of the laid paths. Where it really does come up trumps is the weed resistance. Afaic, most gravel substrates are ideal weed beds for weeds...and landscape fabric will not prevent this (although it will hinder the growth of deep roots). The tighter surface of a self-binding medium definitely discourages seedlings from bedding in. It is also a soft, sympathetic look for a garden which is not rigidly formal.

* been a couple of years since I stopped doing landscaping so my prices might be a bit off...and there will be VAT.

I'm a bit dubious... This is for the sitting-out area near the back door, not for the paths. I think I've encountered this stuff and it does cling to shoes. Also, I will I think want to plant through it here and there.

 

[campanula]

'm a bit dubious... This is for the sitting-out area near the back door, not for the paths. I think I've encountered this stuff and it does cling to shoes. Also, I will I think want to plant through it here and there.

Ah yes, little volunteer seedlings growing in a gravel path is one of the joys of gardening. Mexican daisy, chamomiles, thymes and little annuals such as nemophila and limnanthes, encroaching on gravel paths are charming. Self-binding mixes are really great for areas which get a lot of use but in a domestic garden, the advantages are not so obvious and if you do want to grow things, or just soften the edges, a loose substrate is probably better. As a rule, smaller size gravel (10mm) has greater surface area and stability than 20mm.
Hand weeding in gravel is a massive ballache - be prepared to consider a seasonal spray such as Pathclear, for areas you want to stay clear. One spray will kill off weeds and also act as a germination inhibitor, for between 4-6 months.
Membranes: these are effective for the first season...but it is an inevitability that soil and humus will find its way between the gravel particles and by the second year, you have actually made a perfect environment for seedlings to germinate and thrive. Also, some roots will simply penetrate the membrane (such as couch grass) while grasses will root above and through the membranes. The lovely little volunteers and plantings you might want will have trouble establishing unless holes are cut in the membrane (which will then fray like a bastard) but weeds will establish with ease. All-in-all, a bloody nightmare.

 

[RubyToogood]

Ah yes, little volunteer seedlings growing in a gravel path is one of the joys of gardening. Mexican daisy, chamomiles, thymes and little annuals such as nemophila and limnanthes, encroaching on gravel paths are charming. Self-binding mixes are really great for areas which get a lot of use but in a domestic garden, the advantages are not so obvious and if you do want to grow things, or just soften the edges, a loose substrate is probably better. As a rule, smaller size gravel (10mm) has greater surface area and stability than 20mm.
Hand weeding in gravel is a massive ballache - be prepared to consider a seasonal spray such as Pathclear, for areas you want to stay clear. One spray will kill off weeds and also act as a germination inhibitor, for between 4-6 months.
Membranes: these are effective for the first season...but it is an inevitability that soil and humus will find its way between the gravel particles and by the second year, you have actually made a perfect environment for seedlings to germinate and thrive. Also, some roots will simply penetrate the membrane (such as couch grass) while grasses will root above and through the membranes. The lovely little volunteers and plantings you might want will have trouble establishing unless holes are cut in the membrane (which will then fray like a bastard) but weeds will establish with ease. All-in-all, a bloody nightmare.

Thanks for answering my other unspoken question, which was whether to go for 10 or 20mm. 10 looked like a better bet for walking on so it's good to know I was right. Halleluia, I have found a company who deliver by HIAB!

 

[iona]

Took this the other day but look!!

Six fuckin months that's taken. Cut it off a decent sized euphorbia - I NEVER buy big plants coz it feels like cheating somehow, plus they cost more, and the one time I did it turned out to completely rotted below the soil - and it's the only bit that made it so proper chuffed (obvs now I've said this it'll be dead within a fortnight)

Got a load more succulent babies to deal with today so I've promised myself I can buy something if I get enough of a big work thing done. Gonna have a potter in the garden too and ask if it's ok to put some stuff out in pots myself before gardening group officially starts after Easter. It's pretty much walled in with this (four storey) block to the south, so not much sun unfortunately.

 

[wayward bob]

happy little trees

thisafty could be a good time to put one more wire on the crab apple

 

[Artaxerxes]

It's light enough to do half an hour's pottering around the plot after work so this weekend took some materials up Friday evening and spent three hours today shifting and trying to fix up the dodgy first bed. Water and grass have fucked over anything growing in it this year so salvaged the odd carrot and fennel to grow on elsewhere and maybe get some seed or harvest later. Half the beds been layered with cardboard and manure before putting out the beans that have been growing over winter and some peas in soil from the compost.

Tomorrow I'll try and get a cold frame built if I can, finish the next half of the bed next weekend if weathers ok. Kale in that bit looks a bit worse for wear as well.

Everything else is mud mud mud but the trees are showing signs of imminent budding and the fruit bushes are doing nicely.

 

[Artaxerxes]

6 early tomato seedlings moved to small 3" pots, 12 more toms planted, 6 beetroot, 6 onions, 4 small melons planted in newspaper seedling pots.

Tomorrow I'm doing the leafy stuff direct in ground, kale, Pak choi and rocket. Finally said fuck it and ordered some slug pellets as well because tired of those little bastards.

 

[campanula]

Finally said fuck it and ordered some slug pellets as well because tired of those little bastards.

I think 'Growing Success' brand are both relatively effective and less harmful to thrushes and hedgehogs (which might eat poisoned snails). You could try nematodes. I never have (expensive and I never get it done on time) but I certainly use them for vine weevils (lifesaver).

 

[Artaxerxes]

I think 'Growing Success' brand are both relatively effective and less harmful to thrushes and hedgehogs (which might eat poisoned snails). You could try nematodes. I never have (expensive and I never get it done on time) but I certainly use them for vine weevils (lifesaver).

I use mesh to keep most things out, so only worried about the hedge pigs really

 

[wayward bob]

i've genuinely come to a zenness with the slugs, but then i'm not growing crops beyond fruit and herbs. they still decimate every thyme i put in...

 

[two sheds]

i've heard from a couple of people that they're growing veg as a matter of urgency this year. Won't bother myself for some reason I never do well. Well forgetting by not watering them is one reason and slugs are the other reason

 

[wayward bob]

once i get my head wrapped around "my" space being full of people all the time i reckon i'll naturally migrate back out into the garden. timer watering for all my pots by june