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How was your cycle commute?

gentlegreen said:
You will need a chain whip to lock the cassette while you undo the end cap.
Click to expand...

I have got a chain whip don't worry.

gentlegreen said:
You have to match the rear derailleur with the shifter - SRAM / Shimano are definitely incompatible.
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That's the sort of thing I'm completely ignorant about. I've just had a look and the only clue I can find is that the brake levers have Shimano written on them, so it could be that everything's Shimano. But how would I know?

And I'm guessing that Shimano change things every now and then. So would current Shimano gubbins be compatible with 15 year old Shimano gubbins...?

gentlegreen said:
Though I suppose you could go friction (I don't understand why people like them so much).
Click to expand...

Fit and forget, that's why :)
 
At the one point on the road (slightly downhill) where I usually hit over 25 and sustain 20 for quite a while, I got stuck behind someone on an electric bike who wasn't pedalling at all - and it took me too long to figure out what was going on. :mad:
 
a_chap said:
And I'm guessing that Shimano change things every now and then. So would current Shimano gubbins be compatible with 15 year old Shimano gubbins...?
Click to expand...

The first thing you need to do is definitively identify the cassette, from that you can look up the sprocket (not cog) spacing and from that you can determine which derailleurs and hence shifters will work. Get it off and clean it up, there will be a Shimano part number on it somewhere.

Once you know the sprocket pitch (it's almost certain to be 5.0mm or 5.5mm for a 15 year old Shimano example) you can work out what cable pull you need using:

cable pull = sprocket pitch / shift ratio

The shift ratio for all Shimano is 1.7:1 although Shimano refer to it as the '2:1 actuation ratio' for some reason. Using the 5.0mm example...

cable pull = 5.0 / 1.7 = 2.9mm

So you need a 2.9mm pull shifter which would be the Shimano 'S7' family. Although S8 (2.8mm pull) shifters will work on a 5.0mm sprocket pitch cassette.
 
DownwardDog said:
You can do it with only moderate blood loss by forming an old chain into a lollipop shape around the cassette and securing the stick/handle with cable ties.
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I really ought to practice that in case I ever get stuck with broken spokes out in the wild ..
One thing I have now learned (to my cost) is not to do the end cap up too tight - though doubtless after a lot of miles, it might wear down the splines due to fretting.
 
Slight hints of ice here and there, so naturally there was a lot more traffic and incautious driving and masses of pavement cyclists - who presumably were afraid they would freeze to death if they were held up for a couple of minutes on the road (in that particular section there were a couple of buses and parked cars - though I thought it mildly amusing when one of the pavement cyclists left the pavement to go right up the inside of a coach as if by magnetism..
Of course the ironic thing is that if you have significant iceage, the pavement is the last place to be.

Saw a motorcyclist shout at an idiot driver after nearly getting taken out on the mini roundabout I've been having trouble with, and I felt obliged to give the "handbrake" signal to one driver who might on another day have chanced it at my expense instead of just creeping over the line.

A motorcyclist was killed on another mini roundabout near me last weekend.
 
was heading downa side rd to bigger rd junction on way home last night and an elderly lady who i think was locking up the school nearby, undertook me at speed and went round a mini roundabout the wrong way just to make the green light. they made it but i still caught them up and told them they were dangerous.
they tried protesting but looked guilty to me and had to agree that it didn't get them far.

nice and mild this morning
 
Cold today. Wore my helmet for the first time in ages and sadly, I think I've been getting used to putting my hood up cos it felt bloody freezing. Might have to see about getting a hat to go under it as people have mentioned. Don't think I've got anything suitable.
 
gentlegreen said:
I really ought to practice that in case I ever get stuck with broken spokes out in the wild ..
One thing I have now learned (to my cost) is not to do the end cap up too tight - though doubtless after a lot of miles, it might wear down the splines due to fretting.
Click to expand...

If you've got to do an 'out there repair' that involves removing the cassette then a normal cassette tool also needs a 25mm socket (heavy) and some means of turning it (also heavy) or a large adjustable spanner (even heavier) so at that point you might as well tuck a chain whip into your sock. A Stein Mini Cassette Remover is what you need for lockring removal in the wild.

stein-mini-lock.jpg
 
All we're saying is you need to stop the cogs on the back turning while you undo the screw cap to replace them.
Doing it up is no problem because that's the direction the ratchet works.

You may need this one day if you're away from civilisation and a spoke breaks - because at the hub end the bit that's left can move and jam itself in the back of said cogs and throw you off.

Bite the bullet and buy a couple of tools and you'll never have to wait for a repair shop again.
 
Ninjas !

What the hell is it with so many idiots ?
Has there been a rash of light thefts ?

But tonight's special prize goes to the idiot with the flashing red light on the front.
 
I do have a chain whip.
I would never carry it with me though. If my bike is that fucked, I'm chucking it in to a canal, and getting a taxi home.

On a long ride I take an innertube or two, a pump and some levers and an allen.
 
gentlegreen said:
Ninjas !

What the hell is it with so many idiots ?
Has there been a rash of light thefts ?

But tonight's special prize goes to the idiot with the flashing red light on the front.
Click to expand...
loads of em out here too!
and they would've been killed by the person who didn't see me with my lights and oversized hi viz jacket
almost got hit coming down my road on way home and was only last second evasive action! :eek:
car coming towards me was in middle of road and not pulling over so i had to go into middle of road so they'd notice me and they still didn't! :eek:
pulled away at last second luckily as i had nowhere to go apart from parked cars
their window was misted up and they obviously couldn't see :mad: raised their hand in a pathetic attempt to apologise
 
joustmaster said:
On a long ride I take an innertube or two, a pump and some levers and an allen.
Click to expand...

Long rides. Hmmm, lets think. Ok...

Two spare tyres
Four inner tubes
Puncture repair kit
Tyre boot
Tyre levers (3)
Pump
Multi-tool (includes Allen keys, Chain splitter, Sharp blade, spanners, screwdriver)
Gear cable
Brake cable
Brake pads
Adjustable wrench
A few assorted nuts/bolts
Tie wraps
Adhesive tape
Strong rubber bands (surprisingly handy)
Disposable gloves
Hand wipes
Head torch (for repairs in the dark. Also doubles up as an emergency front or rear light!)
Batteries, nearly forgot those. Spares for front & rear lights and the GPS.

It's only a year ago I stopped taking two sets of Allen keys with me :)
 
a_chap said:
Long rides. Hmmm, lets think. Ok...

Two spare tyres
Four inner tubes
Puncture repair kit
Tyre boot
Tyre levers (3)
Pump
Multi-tool (includes Allen keys, Chain splitter, Sharp blade, spanners, screwdriver)
Gear cable
Brake cable
Brake pads
Adjustable wrench
A few assorted nuts/bolts
Tie wraps
Adhesive tape
Strong rubber bands (surprisingly handy)
Disposable gloves
Hand wipes
Head torch (for repairs in the dark. Also doubles up as an emergency front or rear light!)
Batteries, nearly forgot those. Spares for front & rear lights and the GPS.

It's only a year ago I stopped taking two sets of Allen keys with me :)
Click to expand...


Even on a 300km brevet I carry: 2 x inner tube, 3 x tyre levers and a pump.

If you buy top quality gear, maintain and prepare it correctly then the chances of a mechanical failure you can actually repair are so remote that it's not worth hauling a branch of Halfords around.
 
Frosty & bloody cold. Forgot hat & left helmet in the garage after yesterday.

Did the longer ride to the further away station.

Hopefully picking up a second bike this week so that I can cycle at the London end of the commute too. Just need to find a station with the right facilities, not too far from work.
 
Even though I cannot afford to buy the "top quality gear" you can and even though the chances are remote, I've still had to use each of the above at some point over the years. Only last month I ran over some debris (in the dark on an unlit country lane during a 200km ride) which tore a hole right through my rear tyre. Fixable with a tyre boot.

20km from the end of a 600km ride I've had a chain snap. Another 600km ride I had a gear cable snap (middle of Scotland, very hilly!).

Just as important though I've been able to help lots of stricken riders who have been less well kitted out.
 
came off! :(
ouch
knee and face grazed
pedestrian popped out from behind van on pedestrianised area where cycling is allowed
i took evasive action and went over on the shiny surface/ice/grit combo
bit of grit in the face and ouch
pedestrian apologised but told him was not his fault
might have to alter route
 
ta
got a first aider in the office and have had the wipes out
just the odd twinge now and slow walking
 
:)
joustmaster said:
I do have a chain whip.
I would never carry it with me though. If my bike is that fucked, I'm chucking it in to a canal, and getting a taxi home.

On a long ride I take an innertube or two, a pump and some levers and an allen.
Click to expand...

must get my eye's tested... I read that as some levers and an ALIEN
 
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