Urban75 Home About Offline BrixtonBuzz Contact

The Cycling Chat Thread

High Voltage said:
Your thoughts urban cycling collective

Years ago I got a magnesium framed mtb from Halfords and I mean years ago best guess 30+. At the time "around" £500, so not cheap not expensive.

It's sat in storage for YEARS flat tyres general neglect looks very sad

It's this worth chucking a few quid at through a local bike chap?

I'm currently furloughed, returning to work next month then probably being re-fuloughed, (with luck?) in September so time is not pressing, but would this be chucking good money after bad
Click to expand...

Magnesium? Are you sure?

Bin it. Old bikes are rubbish and almost never worth spending money on.
 
If you're furloughed it might be an idea to treat it as a hobby project yourself rather than chucking money at someone else to fix it. Give it a clean up and see what works. Tyres won't be a problem but magnesium is prone to corrosion and possibly flammable. Have a good look over the frame yourself.
 
I think Kirk dabbled in magnesium alloy frames and I seem to remember a red Kestral mag frame hanging up in cycle surgery for years in the mid 90s. If your frame is something boutique like that it will still be rubbish but could be worth quite a bit - try the retrobike forums.
 
youbeauty said:
I think Kirk dabbled in magnesium alloy frames and I seem to remember a red Kestral mag frame hanging up in cycle surgery for years in the mid 90s. If your frame is something boutique like that it will still be rubbish but could be worth quite a bit - try the retrobike forums.
Click to expand...

That's the kiddie, right there - Kirk
 
Just wanted to thank you again weepiper for pointing out the problem with my forks. I've been out a couple of times since and the steering is definitely a lot less twitchy.

Some of the narrower paths round here are definitely getting very overgrown. My hands are still tingling from all the nettle stings from this morning's ride.
 
Last edited:
Noob question alert.

I've got a problem with my rear derailleur or cassette. My bike locks into the highest gear as default. Every time I try and lower the gear, it initially let's me do so and then automatically chugs into the highest gear. Any tips on how I can fix it? And what tools I'll need? In the past I've always taken it to the shop yet it's costly and I want to learn how to fix it on my own.
 
Threshers_Flail said:
Noob question alert.

I've got a problem with my rear derailleur or cassette. My bike locks into the highest gear as default. Every time I try and lower the gear, it initially let's me do so and then automatically chugs into the highest gear. Any tips on how I can fix it? And what tools I'll need? In the past I've always taken it to the shop yet it's costly and I want to learn how to fix it on my own.
Click to expand...
What shifters/derailleur has it got?
 
Threshers_Flail said:
Noob question alert.

I've got a problem with my rear derailleur or cassette. My bike locks into the highest gear as default. Every time I try and lower the gear, it initially let's me do so and then automatically chugs into the highest gear. Any tips on how I can fix it? And what tools I'll need? In the past I've always taken it to the shop yet it's costly and I want to learn how to fix it on my own.
Click to expand...

Bit annoying without a repair stand. But essentially you do this.
 
Threshers_Flail said:
Noob question alert.

I've got a problem with my rear derailleur or cassette. My bike locks into the highest gear as default. Every time I try and lower the gear, it initially let's me do so and then automatically chugs into the highest gear. Any tips on how I can fix it? And what tools I'll need? In the past I've always taken it to the shop yet it's costly and I want to learn how to fix it on my own.
Click to expand...
Is the shifter indexed and does it move back too? Sounds more like a broken shifter.
 
Threshers_Flail said:
Noob question alert.

I've got a problem with my rear derailleur or cassette. My bike locks into the highest gear as default. Every time I try and lower the gear, it initially let's me do so and then automatically chugs into the highest gear. Any tips on how I can fix it? And what tools I'll need? In the past I've always taken it to the shop yet it's costly and I want to learn how to fix it on my own.
Click to expand...
Is it an old racer type bike (drop handlebars) with friction shifters on the frame, not the handlebars?

Edit, like this

IMG_1386.jpg
 
Threshers_Flail said:
Yep just like that!
Click to expand...
Ok. If it has a little D shaped ring like the one in my picture, fold it out to 90 degrees, then rotate it a bit clockwise and fold it back in again. Repeat until the gears stop jumping back to the highest one. If you tighten it too much the shift will become stiff and difficult, back it off a bit until you get a happy medium.
 
weepiper said:
Ok. If it has a little D shaped ring like the one in my picture, fold it out to 90 degrees, then rotate it a bit clockwise and fold it back in again. Repeat until the gears stop jumping back to the highest one. If you tighten it too much the shift will become stiff and difficult, back it off a bit until you get a happy medium.
Click to expand...

I think you're onto something here. I'll take a look tomorrow and get back to you, thank you!
 
Dogsauce said:
Think I could have probably done with some chain lube today. Broom wagon on the way, hoping this shit mountain bike fits in the back of a Hyundai i10, although I’m quite tempted to lob it over the wall into the Vouga river.

View attachment 223600
Click to expand...

Got a new chain fitted at a shop locally for €10 all in, which is crazy cheap. Time to go play on some of the particularly steep ramps around here.
 
beesonthewhatnow said:
Why? :hmm:
Click to expand...

Flat handlebars always come too long so you can saw down to a preferred length. Bar ends give a wider range of hand positions. I used to have ridiculously short ones for extra filtering powers. Same width as pedals. Wouldn't go that short again but 65cm is too wide and uncomfortable. Don't need that kind of leverage on the road.
 
maomao said:
Flat handlebars always come too long so you can saw down to a preferred length. Bar ends give a wider range of hand positions. I used to have ridiculously short ones for extra filtering powers. Same width as pedals. Wouldn't go that short again but 65cm is too wide and uncomfortable. Don't need that kind of leverage on the road.
Click to expand...
Ah, yeah, I get why you'd want narrower bars for on the road, but I'm not entirely convinced the bar manufactures would entirely agree with your first sentence...
 
Leafster said:
Some of the narrower paths round here are definitely getting very overgrown. My hands are still tingling from all the nettle stings from this morning's ride.
Click to expand...

Gloves and a long sleeved top. Try to get one specific to mountain biking so the sleeves roll up without hurting your arms, but can easily be unravelled as you approach the overgrown bits...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

PR1Berske
Railway adjacent chat thread.
Replies
5
Views
459
PR1Berske
PR1Berske
Fez909
Cycling the C2C - logistics help
Replies
17
Views
630
Fez909
Fez909
TopCat
Brompton folding cycles
2 3
Replies
74
Views
2K
TopCat
TopCat
TopCat
Ceramic coatings for new cycle
Replies
3
Views
335
TopCat
TopCat
Maggot
Apps for cyclists
Replies
6
Views
469
Winot
Winot
Back
Top Bottom