Breaks in Aberdeen

[steeplejack]

True that- although I remember being horrified at an interview with the manager of an Aberdeen hotel on radio Scotland pre-COVID. He smugly insisted that his prices would remain the same in spite of the downturn as he wanted the rif-raff kept out. No Travel Lodge habituées here, thank you very much.

A couple of big city centre hotels are gone and I believe a perfectly viable & recently built hotel on the outskirts was closed down and dynamited recently on the orders of the shadowy hedge fund owning the land.

 

[pogofish]

I could quite believe it of some of them - Snobs would be quite an understatement! Some are also far too used to making money and any concept of actually marketing or re-positioning their places is a bit alien to them. Its a bit of a curse that affects several sectors in Aberdeen business post-oil.

I think I know the hotel you mean. A lot of these more modern places round the city used to exist purely to satisfy the need for rig worker accommodation onshore, should there be any major emergencies/rig evacuations etc and as a result there was seldom more than a small number of actual guests but the hotels remained permanently booked-out on a what-if basis. The requirement for onshore provision changed a few years back, which at least halved the number of beds the oil companies needed to keep onshore and the overall reduction in worker numbers in more recent years rendered them utterly commercially unviable. Some of the more central ones were repositioned/rebranded but the rest, I can't see any future for them other than eventual demolition.

 

[hash tag]

Mrs tag opted for the independent Atholl in the end. Just £300 for 4 nights, so yes, affordable.

 

[hash tag]

Given that it is so affordable and as we will travel back by train and I arranging a one night surprise at the St Pancreas Renaissance when we arrive back in town Somewhere we have both always wanted to stay at. She will go spare because she won't have enough or the right clothes with her for a stay there, but hey.

 

[equationgirl]

I have suggested that, the Mercure, the atholl, Malmaison, station, accor and Chester to Mrs tag.

I have stayed at the Malmaison on a couple of occasions. It's definitely worth it.

 

[hash tag]

It had totally slipped my mind; I see Nessie has been spotted 11 times this year. I might go looking.
Am now looking at booking day time train home Aberdeen to Kings x.

 

[pogofish]

If you do go to Loch Ness, I'll suggest you stick to the eastern side of the loch - Through Dores, Foyers and on to Fort Agustus.

Its a much nicer road and far less busy than the god-awful A82 and you have the added plus that it actually goes close to the water for a great deal of its length. The A82 is cut so high above the water that you can only look at it from above. and a great deal of it is tree-lined, so you can't see that much anyway.

Plus the views west across the loch are a whole lot better and you don't have the awful and likely mobbed rip-off of Drumnadrochit to deal with. There is still "Nessie" stuff in Fort Augustus but it isn't nearly as tacky and again you can get alongside the water at the canal end in the village. Good pub at Dores too.

 

[cyberfairy]

In Pennan at the moment. What a wonderful part of the world. Stonehaven was great and have Julian Cope's guide to stone circles to keep me occupied for the rest of the week. Other tips welcome!

 

[pogofish]

Excellent! If you want more of the same, Gardenstown and Crovie (good viewpoint if you don't want to go all the way down) are also places tucked away under the cliffs - Good cafe in Gardenstown IIRC. Also, along the other way is Pitsligo Castle near Rosehearty, which is an excellent ruin and despite that, one of the most complete survivals of its period/s in the North East, which until his death was owned by Malcolm Forbes - yes, of Forbes Magazine. His family had roots in the area and he always intended to restore it as his Scottish place but never quite got round to it!

Also, just along from Pennan is Aberdour Beach, which is an important bit of geology as it sits on the boundary between Moray Sandstone/Freestone and Aberdeenshire Granite, so the cliffs on either side are different. The place also has ancient history as the place where St Drostan converted the first Picts to Christianity at Dundarg Castle/Fort nearby ( vwey well preserved but in private/not very welcoming hands these days). The ancient chapel on the way down to the beach has associations and the old holy well of St Drostan was still potable the last time I went down there!

A bit further west by Macduff, there is the Tarlair Pools, a surprising art-deco outdoor swimming pool/lido survival. A-Listed and considered the best lido of its period in Scotland, despite being currently disused.

And if you see anyone you recognise, or think you recognise, it probably is - The Crown is shooting up there right now!

 

[cyberfairy]

Excellent! If you want more of the same, Gardenstown and Crovie (good viewpoint if you don't want to go all the way down) are also places tucked away under the cliffs - Good cafe in Gardenstown IIRC. Also, along the other way is Pitsligo Castle near Rosehearty, which is an excellent ruin and despite that, one of the most complete survivals of its period/s in the North East, which until his death was owned by Malcolm Forbes - yes, of Forbes Magazine. His family had roots in the area and he always intended to restore it as his Scottish place but never quite got round to it!

Also, just along from Pennan is Aberdour Beach, which is an important bit of geology as it sits on the boundary between Moray Sandstone/Freestone and Aberdeenshire Granite, so the cliffs on either side are different. The place also has ancient history as the place where St Drostan converted the first Picts to Christianity at Dundarg Castle/Fort nearby ( vwey well preserved but in private/not very welcoming hands these days). The ancient chapel on the way down to the beach has associations and the old holy well of St Drostan was still potable the last time I went down there!

A bit further west by Macduff, there is the Tarlair Pools, a surprising art-deco outdoor swimming pool/lido survival. A-Listed and considered the best lido of its period in Scotland, despite being currently disused.

And if you see anyone you recognise, or think you recognise, it probably is - The Crown is shooting up there right now!

Went to Gardenstown today, cafe looked nice but the pub looked better! Also have Pitsligo Castle on my list along with various stone circles,witches graves and other ephemera.Thanks for info re Aberdour beach etc, very interesting and will try to have a look, love anything historic or with an interesting tale. Boyfriend went to Peterhead today to go to Argos. Said it was like going to East Germany. And he used to live in Fleetwood!

 

[pogofish]

That's Brilliant - These places are missed by so many people now. Archaeologists/historians reckon that Aberdour was one of the major centres of Pictish culture and possibly one of its capitals, Along with Dunnotar/Dunnicaer, (the next headland-up by Stonehaven) and of course Burghead.

A few years back, when I moved to my current job, we were involved in the excavation that confirmed Dunnicaer was a major site of habitation, from the Iron Age-on and possibly the oldest Pictish fort of all.

Evidence stacks up that rocky outcrop was home to earliest Pictish fort | News | The University of Aberdeen

An inhospitable sea stack on the Aberdeenshire coast has been confirmed as the site of the earliest Pictish Fort and predates the iconic Dunnottar Castle, carbon dating has revealed.

www.abdn.ac.uk

Archaeology which has changed the face of Scotland's warrior kingdoms scoops prestigious award | News | The University of Aberdeen

Pioneering work led by the University of Aberdeen, which has revealed a new picture of Scotland's Pictish past, has won Current Archaeology's prestigious Research Project of the Year award for 2021.

www.abdn.ac.uk

Another holy well on Speyside, also associated with Drostan is the water supply for Aberlour malt whisky - holy water we can all approve of!

Further-on, beyond the well, on the other side of the headland with the stone arch is a cave - that by tradition was the hiding place of Lord Pitsligo, one of the Jacobite commanders at Culloden. This is a stretch of country where just about every wrinkle in the coast has its own legend/place in Scottish history though.

Did the pub in Gardenstown make anything of its being the place where Bram Stoker finished writing Dracula? they have uncovered telegrams between Stoker and his publisher about this when he was staying there. He also used Gardenstown as inspiration for another of his stories.

You probably won't believe me but Peterhead has actually brightened-up/softened a bit in recent years - its nowhere as bleak/grim as it used to be twenty-odd years ago. Although it still can be eerily quiet on Sundays. Gadie Braes in the teeth of a storm straight off the North Sea in winter is still an awesome sight - Only Peterheiders would build/live in houses there..!

What other circles/ancient sites are on your slate?

 

[pogofish]

If you want another impressive clifftop ruin in that area, Findlater Castle is a good one:

Findlater Castle Feature Page on Undiscovered Scotland

Information about and images of Findlater Castle in Aberdeenshire on Undiscovered Scotland.

www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk

Also a good candidate for the epithet - "the epitome of fuck-off in stone"

 

[cyberfairy]

Thanks again for more interesting historical info, very jealous of excavation, only been on two community digs before. The website of the pub did mention Bram Stoker, yes. Was a decent pub too with a vegan menu! Have eaten a lot of chips since I've been here as emphasis on food in pubs seems to be on fish or meat. Marine Hotel, as someone previously mentioned in Stonehaven, was good for veggie stuff. Have you ever been to Trustys Fort in Gatehouse, Dumfries and Galloway? Amazing Pictish carving there. Today, focusing on Inverurie, the Bass of Inveririe and legends surrounding it are very enticing and near Easter Aquothies (sorry about spelling, on phone!) stone circle as written about in The Modern Antiquarian and in my copy The Old Stones. Might try and see the Fetternear estate as well and the Aikey Brai stone circle at Old Deer. My ten year old is going to have such a shit day! Will be googling some of the places you have mentioned, appreciate the tips and knowledge greatly!

 

[redcogs]

Thanks again for more interesting historical info, very jealous of excavation, only been on two community digs before. The website of the pub did mention Bram Stoker, yes. Was a decent pub too with a vegan menu! Have eaten a lot of chips since I've been here as emphasis on food in pubs seems to be on fish or meat. Marine Hotel, as someone previously mentioned in Stonehaven, was good for veggie stuff. Have you ever been to Trustys Fort in Gatehouse, Dumfries and Galloway? Amazing Pictish carving there. Today, focusing on Inverurie, the Bass of Inveririe and legends surrounding it are very enticing and near Easter Aquothies (sorry about spelling, on phone!) stone circle as written about in The Modern Antiquarian and in my copy The Old Stones. Might try and see the Fetternear estate as well and the Aikey Brai stone circle at Old Deer. My ten year old is going to have such a shit day! Will be googling some of the places you have mentioned, appreciate the tips and knowledge greatly!

just to give a heads up to Delgatie Castle north of Turriff. It's a thousand years old, fascinating history, waaay more interesting than any of the vulgar new money stately homes of England. Cheap to do the tour, and the 'lairds kitchen' cafe home bakes are exceptional. If you are in the area don't drive past

 

[danny la rouge]

Boyfriend went to Peterhead today to go to Argos. Said it was like going to East Germany. And he used to live in Fleetwood!

 

[pogofish]

Thanks again for more interesting historical info, very jealous of excavation, only been on two community digs before. The website of the pub did mention Bram Stoker, yes. Was a decent pub too with a vegan menu! Have eaten a lot of chips since I've been here as emphasis on food in pubs seems to be on fish or meat. Marine Hotel, as someone previously mentioned in Stonehaven, was good for veggie stuff. Have you ever been to Trustys Fort in Gatehouse, Dumfries and Galloway? Amazing Pictish carving there. Today, focusing on Inverurie, the Bass of Inveririe and legends surrounding it are very enticing and near Easter Aquothies (sorry about spelling, on phone!) stone circle as written about in The Modern Antiquarian and in my copy The Old Stones. Might try and see the Fetternear estate as well and the Aikey Brai stone circle at Old Deer. My ten year old is going to have such a shit day! Will be googling some of the places you have mentioned, appreciate the tips and knowledge greatly!

Never been to Trusty's Fort, no. Inverurie is pretty-much the epicentre of ancient Aberdeenshire, so you have a huge choice of sites that way! I'd also suggest you consider having a look at the Maiden Stone - A very fine Pictish carved stone just up the hill off the A96 at Pitcaple - and if there, if you walk down the hill a little bit, on the right is "Persephone" - a large modern sculpture in a little glade just off the road (no parking though).

Also nearby is Insch and the Picardy Stone - another very fine Pictish stone, plus the short walk to the hillfort at Dunnideer - which has superb views, several phases of occupation/construction into medieval times and hut circles cut into the hillside. There are a couple more ancient sites/circle remains in the same area but all significantly damaged or in fields that usually have livestock.

Picardy Stone Feature Page on Undiscovered Scotland

Information about and images of the Picardy Stone Pictish stone in Aberdeenshire on Undiscovered Scotland.

www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk

Dunnideer Fort

Vitrified Fort in Aberdeenshire, Scotland

www.megalithic.co.uk

That little cottage just along the road from the Picardy Stone to Dunnideer was where my family got its Aberdeenshire roots down after coming from Moray via Buchan - it is restored as a private house now after a long time in ruins.

Also, over the hill is the large ruin of the mansion of Wardhouse, once home to Admiral Sir James Alexander Gordon, who was the inspiration for CS Forester's Horatio Hornblower! I have driven-up and had a look - the old steading/square beside it is still occupied but the house itself is visitable. Unless someone has started restoring it - there was talk of that maybe happening a couple of years back but it could be all hot air.

Also easily reached from Inverurie via the lovely "Lords Throat" back road along the river Don and the back O'Bennachie is the Old Keig stone circle. The biggest recumbent of them all and in a great location. There is a large place for forestry/farming trucks to park just at the head of the strip of trees it sits in, just jump the fence and walk down. The Modern Antiquarian site talks about people feeling "unwelcome" but I've never been bothered on any visit over many years and the last time I was there, I was pretty certain the nearby farm is no longer occupied or sold-off as a private house.

Old Keig

You could make a nice circular to Kemnay that way.

 

[teuchter]

If you do go to Loch Ness, I'll suggest you stick to the eastern side of the loch - Through Dores, Foyers and on to Fort Agustus.

Its a much nicer road and far less busy than the god-awful A82 and you have the added plus that it actually goes close to the water for a great deal of its length. The A82 is cut so high above the water that you can only look at it from above. and a great deal of it is tree-lined, so you can't see that much anyway.

Plus the views west across the loch are a whole lot better and you don't have the awful and likely mobbed rip-off of Drumnadrochit to deal with. There is still "Nessie" stuff in Fort Augustus but it isn't nearly as tacky and again you can get alongside the water at the canal end in the village. Good pub at Dores too.

I went to school in drumnadrochit so obviously take offense at what you have written above. It's mostly true though. However, having been there a couple of months ago, it's loads quieter this year than it usually would be, do to the absence of overseas tourists.

hash tag be careful you don't try and fit in too much. Many people underestimate the time it will take to drive between places in the Highlands, especially if you are taking routes on single track roads.

 

[pogofish]

Loudon Wood Stone circle, not far from Aikey Brae is another of my favourites - park by the forestry office and take the track into the woods plus the nearby Drinnies Observatory is a pleasant walk to a great view. We have its telescope, still operational, preserved in a tower room at work!

Loudon Wood Stone Circle

leshamilton.co.uk

 

[steeplejack]

A bit further west by Macduff, there is the Tarlair Pools, a surprising art-deco outdoor swimming pool/lido survival. A-Listed and considered the best lido of its period in Scotland, despite being currently disused.

I was up in Banff / Macduff at the weekend- a much under-rated wee place. I enjoyed visiting there from time to time- a great, and almost deserted beach. Not a hell of a lot to do but I'm too old for psychedelic weekends aboard the jakey express these days.

Tarlaiur was a ruin for many years but a community group are trying to do something with it with some success. Will need huge money to bring back to its former glory but being back in use for open air events good enough for now.

 

[hash tag]

hash tag be careful you don't try and fit in too much. Many people underestimate the time it will take to drive between places in the Highlands, especially if you are taking routes on single track roads.

very wise. Beginning to wish I had booked more time. We will be doing much driving

 

[steeplejack]

. Boyfriend went to Peterhead today to go to Argos. Said it was like going to East Germany.

Be careful, the Peterhead Stasi are not to be trifled with.

"Subject Cyberfairy entered Peterhead by the People's-Owned Gas Terminal at St. Fergus. Department M followed but lost him in Morrison's"

 

[hash tag]

Boyfriend went to Peterhead today to go to Argos. Said it was like going to East Germany. And he used to live in Fleetwood!

I have been looking to see what food there is about in Thurso, particularly for vegetarians.
Many menu's list rice AND chips. I suspect many of the chips are cooked in lard. Deep fried mars bars exist.
Sounds like we are stepping back in time.

 

[Sue]

I have been looking to see what food there is about in Thurso, particularly for vegetarians.
Many menu's list rice AND chips. I suspect many of the chips are cooked in lard. Deep fried mars bars exist.
Sounds like we are stepping back in time.

Happy Cow is your friend.

https://www.happycow.net/europe/scotland/thurso/

 

[hash tag]

Happy Cow is your friend.

https://www.happycow.net/europe/scotland/thurso/

Y not?

 

[redcogs]

I was up in Banff / Macduff at the weekend- a much under-rated wee place. I enjoyed visiting there from time to time- a great, and almost deserted beach. Not a hell of a lot to do but I'm too old for psychedelic weekends aboard the jakey express these days.

Tarlaiur was a ruin for many years but a community group are trying to do something with it with some success. Will need huge money to bring back to its former glory but being back in use for open air events good enough for now.

View attachment 282851View attachment 282852View attachment 282854View attachment 282855View attachment 282856
View attachment 282857

 

[redcogs]

There is a vegan cafe named Beobab in Banff city centre which attracts much praise. also Macduff offers a pleasing nature trip by boat, on board the 'Seacat' catamaran, which enables close up viewing of Scotland's only gannet colony at Troop Head cliffs. Kittiwakes also abundant despite being under extreme pressure from food shortages (induced by climate change and other suspect human activity).. Dolphins around sometimes, and whales occasionally. The areas entire coastline is wonderful to observe.

 

[teuchter]

Scotland's only gannet colony at Troop Head cliffs.

Scotland's only gannet colony? I don't think so!

 

[redcogs]

Largest in Scotland?

 

[redcogs]

ah yes, i see there are a few gatherings of gannets elsewhere in Scotland - whether they can be described as colonies depends ;-D

 

[cyberfairy]

I have been looking to see what food there is about in Thurso, particularly for vegetarians.
Many menu's list rice AND chips. I suspect many of the chips are cooked in lard. Deep fried mars bars exist.
Sounds like we are stepping back in time.

We commmited the heinous crime of going to a Brewdog today,of which there are many in Scotland. We regretted it but was buy one veggie or vegan meal and get second free.