spitfire
Walty McWaltface
I know mate, just thought you may have come across similar.
Basic DIY questions?
- Thread starter UnderOpenSky
- Start date
I know mate, just thought you may have come across similar.
Artaxerxes
Look out, he's got a gnu!
Yeah it’s cheap ass paint the old tin is in the garage. It’s just texture from the brushing.
teuchter
je suis teuchter
I became a fan of this when having to fill a lot of holes like that. Don't need to build it up in layers, it dries quickly, doesn't shrink and if you smooth it with a metal blade you can often get away without having to sand afterwards.
www.everbuild.co.uk
Sika UK Distribution | Sika UK
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www.everbuild.co.uk
spitfire
Walty McWaltface
Good stuff.
My asbestos radar is on overdrive after my biannual awareness course and my site managers course.
I see it everywhere now.
Christ knows how much we must have inhaled back in the day.
Artaxerxes
Look out, he's got a gnu!
Good stuff.
My asbestos radar is on overdrive after my biannual awareness course and my site managers course.
I see it everywhere now.
Christ knows how much we must have inhaled back in the day.
I think this threads already made me paranoid about the ceilings, I don't need to worry about the walls as well
spitfire
Walty McWaltface
I became a fan of this when having to fill a lot of holes like that. Don't need to build it up in layers, it dries quickly, doesn't shrink and if you smooth it with a metal blade you can often get away without having to sand afterwards.
Sika UK Distribution | Sika UK
Discover Sika UK Distribution's comprehensive range of high-quality building solutions for the trade. Whether you need sealants, adhesives, building chemicals, landscaping solutions, or more, we have the answer.
How long does it last once you've opened it and used a bit, does it keep well?
teuchter
je suis teuchter
It was a while ago I was using it a lot so can't remember exactly, but I think it probably doesn't keep as well as "traditional" filler.
Probably best for when you have quite a lot of filling to do and will get through the tub fairly quickly.
spitfire
Walty McWaltface
Thanks, will just get a small tub then.
maomao
普費斯
Anyone have any experience with rat flaps on sewers. We've had rats coming and munching our toilet pipes and as part of the solution I've put a rat flap in the sewer. It wasn't nearly as easy as it looked on YouTube and I'm about 10-15 degrees off vertical. Any opinions on whether it will still do its job or if I have to pay someone 150 quid to do it properly? It's not a very clear picture but the nut is supposed to be at the top. It's definitely not stopping water leaving.
zedr
new but not *that* new
I'm hoping to put three bolts into these bricks so that I can have a sturdy base for my apple press. The legs of the press have small holes in which I'd like to be able to slide over the bolts, and then screw a but over the top. Ideally the bolts would be in there permanently, but I'd like to be able to take the press off as it won't do well in the rain.
Is it possible to do this? I've no idea how I'd do this. Can you buy bolts which have the same diameter head and shaft?
spitfire
Walty McWaltface
It is possible.
You can get these with an M6 bolt (M8 also available). You will need an M12 drill bit for the hole.
Loose Bolt, Rawl M6 25L | Loose Shield Anchor Bolts | Fixings
www.orbitalfasteners.co.uk
Only thing is I'd be worried the brick would break.
eta, mind you the holes look quite small. Are they M4?
Saul Goodman
It's all good, man
Rawl bolts would work but I wouldn't be mounting it to that bit of a wall. It isn't strong enough, and the Rawl bolts are likely to crack the bricks, just before you pull the wall down.
Idaho
blah blah blah
I've got that same press and screw it into a wooden bench with fairly little screws. They don't need crazy pinning down, just enough to stop it spinning when you crank the press.
If you really wanted to go ahead with bolting it to that wall, then you'd need to drill holes, cut down a bolt and epoxy them into the holes.
www.toolstation.com
If you really wanted to go ahead with bolting it to that wall, then you'd need to drill holes, cut down a bolt and epoxy them into the holes.
Threaded Bar
Provide additional support for your components with this lengthy threaded bar, also known as a stud. It's typically used in construction, agricultural and manufacturing applications to secure objects and structures made of metal, wood or concrete. At 1 m long, it's suitable for a variety of...
www.toolstation.com
Zapp Brannigan
Built like a steakhouse, handles like a bistro
Rawl bolts would be total overkill, and as has been said already would probably shatter the bricks.
Another vote from me for 3 holes drilled, epoxy in 3 short sections of threaded bar cut to length (or b&q do 50mm lengths of M5 as a pack of 10, £6), and with 3 washers and wingnuts you're good to go. The kind of things a well stocked shed already has, but buying from scratch shouldn't be much over a tenner.
Another vote from me for 3 holes drilled, epoxy in 3 short sections of threaded bar cut to length (or b&q do 50mm lengths of M5 as a pack of 10, £6), and with 3 washers and wingnuts you're good to go. The kind of things a well stocked shed already has, but buying from scratch shouldn't be much over a tenner.
zedr
new but not *that* new
I've also been thinking about just screwing it into some wood too. I was also worried that the bricks might crack/break when cranking the press and cba to find out it that happens or not.I've got that same press and screw it into a wooden bench with fairly little screws. They don't need crazy pinning down, just enough to stop it spinning when you crank the press.
If you really wanted to go ahead with bolting it to that wall, then you'd need to drill holes, cut down a bolt and epoxy them into the holes.
Threaded Bar
Provide additional support for your components with this lengthy threaded bar, also known as a stud. It's typically used in construction, agricultural and manufacturing applications to secure objects and structures made of metal, wood or concrete. At 1 m long, it's suitable for a variety of...
Thx for all the advice everyone!
teuchter
je suis teuchter
The reason it's not a good idea to drill holes in the brick is that they'd be too close to the edge. The reason to use resin rather than rawl plugs is that rawl plugs rely on expanding into the hole making it even more likely that they would crack. Also, mortar isn't glue, so even if you could fix securely into the top bricks, any sigificant force would just shift those top bricks relative to the rest of the wall.
I’ve got a mixer shower where the thermostat tap is broken so can’t adjust the temperature and it’s stuck on hot hot.
Taken the tape cap off and now can see the cartridge. I think I need to unscrew the nut? I couldn’t move it at all but eventually managed it with some pliers but it’s turning the whole cartridge when I turn it. Any ideas? Can’t seem to hold the cartridge still to turn the nut. Assuming that is what I want to do! Plan was to get it all out and clean it in the hope that it then worked. But I guess either way I need it out even if it’s to replace it.
Taken the tape cap off and now can see the cartridge. I think I need to unscrew the nut? I couldn’t move it at all but eventually managed it with some pliers but it’s turning the whole cartridge when I turn it. Any ideas? Can’t seem to hold the cartridge still to turn the nut. Assuming that is what I want to do! Plan was to get it all out and clean it in the hope that it then worked. But I guess either way I need it out even if it’s to replace it.
Saul Goodman
It's all good, man
Last one of these I replaced had a grub screw underneath, holding the valve in.
Elpenor
a clown’s heart and a mandolin
My idea was to fix the press to a bit of wood, then clamp the wood in a workmate
Perhaps you’ve discounted that already though? Not sure how much force will be going through the press and then to the workmate?
teuchter
je suis teuchter
zedr
new but not *that* new
Its a good idea, but I don't really have space to store a workmate. For the time being I'm just screwing it into some decking, but I think I'll properly plan to build a little outdoor stand for next seasons juice/cider making.
kalmatthew
Lurker Extrodinaire
I'm having a loft ladder installed and part of this will be replacing my loft hatch, does anyone have any expericne of plastic vs wood hatches.
The default is to replace my current lift up hatch with a drop down one still in wood but I'm tempted by the maintance free aspects of plastic ones.
The default is to replace my current lift up hatch with a drop down one still in wood but I'm tempted by the maintance free aspects of plastic ones.
Saul Goodman
It's all good, man
Wood is pretty much maintenance free when it's indoors, and you can easily paint it to match your ceiling, if you like.
existentialist
Tired and unemotional
Some interior plastics seem to be prone to collecting dust and looking grubby quite quickly - and, perhaps ironically, while ostensibly maintenance-free, are a pain if any maintenance IS needed. I'd probably choose wood, but I'm an old fuck with years of ingrained prejudice to filter everything through
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