Sweet FA
✪ Three rounds Lord, in my .44 ✪
Yes - if I just lay them all round the sheds, they'll sit in pools of water for most of the year...
Basic DIY questions?
- Thread starter UnderOpenSky
- Start date
Elpenor
Dancing as fast as I can
Can’t help sorry Sweet FA i am the one who asks not the one who answers 
but I do know there should be a slight drop to allow water to drain away as has been noted already
Have just put down another 100mm of insulation everywhere I can get to in my loft, and also chopped up the old plastic water tank. About to take that to the tip. A job off my list, and I have a spare roll of insulation as I only needed 1 in the end.
Lost count of the number of times I banged my head on a rafter
but I do know there should be a slight drop to allow water to drain away as has been noted already Have just put down another 100mm of insulation everywhere I can get to in my loft, and also chopped up the old plastic water tank. About to take that to the tip. A job off my list, and I have a spare roll of insulation as I only needed 1 in the end.
Lost count of the number of times I banged my head on a rafter
WouldBe
Dislicksick
If the base is concrete then I'd set the pavers on a bed of mortar then use more mortar to seal the edges of the slabs to prevent water getting under them so it won't freeze in winter and lift all your slabs. Then use a damp mortar mix to fill the gaps between the slabs.
So along with overalls and a face mask you should have procured a bump cap.Can’t help sorry Sweet FA i am the one who asks not the one who answers
Have just put down another 100mm of insulation everywhere I can get to in my loft, and also chopped up the old plastic water tank. About to take that to the tip. A job off my list, and I have a spare roll of insulation as I only needed 1 in the end.
Lost count of the number of times I banged my head on a rafter
WouldBe
Dislicksick
Elpenor
Dancing as fast as I can
Is that a thing? The laugh reaction is because I am very sure it is, but I guess one don’t know what one doesn’t know. Just as well my hair is fairly long it took some of the force!
Disposable boiler suit was shit as I was too fat for it despite getting the biggest size. Just used my decorating clothes in the end
WouldBe
Dislicksick
Commonly known as hard hats.
No, bump caps a lighter than hard hats. As the name implies.
WouldBe
Dislicksick
Just strap a pillow to your head.
Elpenor
Dancing as fast as I can
Construction sites demand workers wear hard hats. Which makes sense if someone drops something off a scaffold and you happen to be underneath.
Bump caps are more of a rail industry thing. For working under trains.
Bump caps are more of a rail industry thing. For working under trains.
teuchter
je suis teuchter
Sounds like asking for trouble to me - it's virtually impossible to do this in a way that guarantees no voids or cracks. The water will get into them and then have nowhere to go. And even if you managed to create something entirely impermeable, you'd be making something like mini paddling pools for the sheds to sit in.
If the aim is to make things look neater I'd maybe be thinking of gravel or pea shingle possibly with a membrane underneath to discourage weeds.
The safest thing would be to break all the concrete out, except of course where the sheds are. Then they'd be sitting on their own concrete pads and permeable paving could be laid properly in the remaining areas at a slightly lower level.
WouldBe
Dislicksick
Iirc the earlier advice was to sit the sheds in bricks and dpc to stop water getting to the timbers, so paddling pools wouldn't be a problem.
Elpenor
Dancing as fast as I can
So I would like to do a Trump and “build a wall”.
When I raised the level of my back garden, I created a couple of beds, however the retaining wall needs to be a bit higher, probably 6-9 inches or so, in order that the soil, compost and water etc doesn’t run off. The drop between the grass and the existing height of the retaining wall is around 12 inches.
I presume it’s a case of mixing some mortar or similar in a mixing tub, then laying the stones on top, although likely a bit more complicated than that, so I am wondering what I might need.
I am also not sure where to get the stones from or what exactly I need to buy. I’ve got to cover around 4m or so of length, so also unclear what weight I need as these seem to be sold by the half tonne - not sure if that would be enough though
.
Any ideas gratefully received
When I raised the level of my back garden, I created a couple of beds, however the retaining wall needs to be a bit higher, probably 6-9 inches or so, in order that the soil, compost and water etc doesn’t run off. The drop between the grass and the existing height of the retaining wall is around 12 inches.
I presume it’s a case of mixing some mortar or similar in a mixing tub, then laying the stones on top, although likely a bit more complicated than that, so I am wondering what I might need.
I am also not sure where to get the stones from or what exactly I need to buy. I’ve got to cover around 4m or so of length, so also unclear what weight I need as these seem to be sold by the half tonne - not sure if that would be enough though
.Any ideas gratefully received
WouldBe
Dislicksick
Best bet would be to contact them and ask.So I would like to do a Trump and “build a wall”.
When I raised the level of my back garden, I created a couple of beds, however the retaining wall needs to be a bit higher, probably 6-9 inches or so, in order that the soil, compost and water etc doesn’t run off. The drop between the grass and the existing height of the retaining wall is around 12 inches.
View attachment 421002
View attachment 421003
I presume it’s a case of mixing some mortar or similar in a mixing tub, then laying the stones on top, although likely a bit more complicated than that, so I am wondering what I might need.
I am also not sure where to get the stones from or what exactly I need to buy. I’ve got to cover around 4m or so of length, so also unclear what weight I need as these seem to be sold by the half tonne - not sure if that would be enough though
Any ideas gratefully received
Callie
Pivoting
Question...if painting walls dark colours do you paint your white wood work first or last.ceiling is done already.
Just trying to work out what is the least hassle to deal with when splashed or drops happen... Dark onto light or light onto dark?? Any tips??
equationgirl I know you have a dark walled room!
Just trying to work out what is the least hassle to deal with when splashed or drops happen... Dark onto light or light onto dark?? Any tips??
equationgirl I know you have a dark walled room!
Paint drips downwards so I’d always do skirting boards last.
Epona
Sonic: 1 Nov 2006 - 8 Jan 2022
Whatever you're using to paint your woodwork will take a lot longer to completely cure than the emulsion you're using on your walls.
So any drips from the walls will damage the finish of your woodwork unless you leave it weeks to properly cure before doing your walls.
Sand woodwork, primer on.
Paint walls.
Paint woodwork.
equationgirl
Respect my existence or expect my resistance
I use blue painters tape, applied once the walls are dry, to protect the edges of the woodwork..I usually use a three inch brush as my woodwork is four - six inches wide, if that helps. But I do woodwork, and the fire surround if in the lounge, last.
equationgirl
Respect my existence or expect my resistance
teuchter
je suis teuchter
I'd recommend doing a bit of practice to get your cutting-in skills good enough that you don't need masking tape in many scenarios. As well as saving faff, it often results in a sharper edge anyway. On older buildings there's seldom an exact straight line to follow anyway.
I was more thinking of the emulsion spraying everywhere when using a roller. Easily wiped off I suppose but you wouldn’t want it going on freshly painted gloss.
kalmatthew
Lurker Extrodinaire
Squared circle with a chisel mainly very successful.
However....
Installed a roller catch on my pantry door, it closed nicely however will not open. Any smart ideas before I take the multtiool to the latch?
Saul Goodman
It's all good, man
Can you get in with something thin, like a blade, and press the roller bit back into its recess?
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WouldBe
Dislicksick
This. It could do with a 'ramp' to ease the roller out rather than a square hole.
kalmatthew
Lurker Extrodinaire
Have tried that a few times and will try again tomorrow but I think my problem is it's sticking out beyond the widest bit of the roller, and the roller of course rolls nicely slipping tools off it although I might try something sharp
WouldBe
Dislicksick
Iirc you need a cupped keep for the roller to engage with.
It may be possible to just pull it open but you'll need to apply quite a bit of pressure gradually and it may give all of a sudden so watch it doesn't hit you when it opens.
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