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Basic DIY questions?

If there's room you could just use that as it is otherwise you can cut it shorter with a hacksaw and then run the nut across the cut end to 'straighten' any distorted threads at the cut end.
Are the bolts different diameters though? That says it's 8mm but the socket I'm using to tighten the other one is 3/8,which I think is 9mm. I don't want to buy it and it not fit the tap.
 
Are the bolts different diameters though? That says it's 8mm but the socket I'm using to tighten the other one is 3/8,which I think is 9mm. I don't want to buy it and it not fit the tap.
The socket will be a different size as it fits the nut rather than the thread. Your Amazon link says the thread is 8mm so should be ok.
 
If there's room you could just use that as it is otherwise you can cut it shorter with a hacksaw and then run the nut across the cut end to 'straighten' any distorted threads at the cut end.
I have found with cutting bolts to length, that if you put the nut on first and spin it up (well out of the way) and then cut the bolt, you can twist the nut back off and this fixes any distortions / burrs . Taking it off a cut bolt, instead of putting it onto a cut bolt, if ya get me. You might have to use a bit of force ...
 
I have found with cutting bolts to length, that if you put the nut on first and spin it up (well out of the way) and then cut the bolt, you can twist the nut back off and this fixes any distortions / burrs . Taking it off a cut bolt, instead of putting it onto a cut bolt, if ya get me. You might have to use a bit of force ...
That's the correct way to do it. And if you have a bench grinder with a stone and wire wheel, remove the burr on the stone, then give it a rub on the wire wheel to finish it off.
 
I have found with cutting bolts to length, that if you put the nut on first and spin it up (well out of the way) and then cut the bolt, you can twist the nut back off and this fixes any distortions / burrs . Taking it off a cut bolt, instead of putting it onto a cut bolt, if ya get me. You might have to use a bit of force ...
Agree if your cutting a bolt but this is a stud so you can put the nut on from the uncut end.
 
I need to replace all my door latches and I can't find new ones that are as small as my old ones the diffence isn't much but enough that it won't fit in the hole, any advice on the best way to enlarge the hole? I have chiselsv a drill and a multi tool(oscillating saw) but also open to acquiring tools if someone has a suggestion that makes life much easier. 1000047392.jpg
 
I need to replace all my door latches and I can't find new ones that are as small as my old ones the diffence isn't much but enough that it won't fit in the hole, any advice on the best way to enlarge the hole? I have chiselsv a drill and a multi tool(oscillating saw) but also open to acquiring tools if someone has a suggestion that makes life much easier. View attachment 419499
Correct size drill bit, or square the circle with a chisel.
 
I treated myself to a new set of chisels as I had used the old ones for all kinds of things which I shouldn't have and they had become chipped and blunt. Alas I continue to use the old ones for things I shouldn't use them for, and the new ones remain in the box untouched.

Anyway, that looks like a chisel task to me too.
 
I treated myself to a new set of chisels as I had used the old ones for all kinds of things which I shouldn't have and they had become chipped and blunt. Alas I continue to use the old ones for things I shouldn't use them for, and the new ones remain in the box untouched.

Anyway, that looks like a chisel task to me too.
I had allready ordered some new chisels because I knew that even if I could get the bodies lined up the plates had 0 chance of being the same size, these ones have even come with a sharpening stone and a guide so my crappy dyslexic hand eye cordiniation doesn't mean I make them blunter not sharper!
 
I’ve just replaced the clip which fastens my 68mm downpipe coming down off the guttering to the wallas something - perhaps the excess wind - had meant it had ripped off

Any reason why the previous clip, as well being screwed into to the wall had also been attached to the downpipe with a screw? Pic below

CCD2FFB7-1938-4327-93BD-C252DEDAA1FD.jpeg
 
I’ve just replaced the clip which fastens my 68mm downpipe coming down off the guttering to the wallas something - perhaps the excess wind - had meant it had ripped off

Any reason why the previous clip, as well being screwed into to the wall had also been attached to the downpipe with a screw? Pic below

View attachment 419515
To prevent the downpipe from dropping, I would think.
 
Yes it's to stop it from dropping downwards. I think if you do it properly you fix at places like joints where the fittings have a kind of ridged collar in them that prevents vertical movement. And in theory with longer runs of pipe there should be a joint that lets them expand/contract a bit in the heat without trying to take the wall fixings along with them.
 
The chisel idea was where I was thinking so will probably do that, my concern with a drill bit was lining things up!
I think the existing hole will provide the alignment. I'd just drill it. Chiselling will take ages and be more likely to misalign.
 
I think the existing hole will provide the alignment. I'd just drill it. Chiselling will take ages and be more likely to misalign.
Trying to drill it the drill will just judder about. Using a chisel you just need to pare a bit out where it's tight.
 
I’ve got a drill bit stuck in the chuck and it won’t release. It’s part of the arbor from a hole saw bit if that makes any sense. Obviously I have tried undoing the chuck but it

I’ve soaked the bit that’s stuck in wd40, and will try it tomorrow. Anything else I can do?
 
I’ve got a drill bit stuck in the chuck and it won’t release. It’s part of the arbor from a hole saw bit if that makes any sense. Obviously I have tried undoing the chuck but it

I’ve soaked the bit that’s stuck in wd40, and will try it tomorrow. Anything else I can do?
Is it a keyless chuck?
 
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