Putting a bit of roof up between the sheds where the gate is would either make it easier to have one run of guttering with chained water butts at one side, or be a massive ballache of leaky gaps depending on how you built the roof. I can see your point about height access through the gate though.
Basic DIY questions?
- Thread starter UnderOpenSky
- Start date
Sweet FA
✪ Three rounds Lord, in my .44 ✪
I liked the roof idea as it would have looked cool and given proper outdoor space to work too... Sail will be ok though I think.
WouldBe
Dislicksick
You could raise the shed up on bricks. They won't rot.
Sweet FA
✪ Three rounds Lord, in my .44 ✪
Interestingly, when I removed the old shed; I found it had been standing on bricks...
spitfire
Walty McWaltface
Wiring question, swapping out a switch for a dimmer. The electricians cowboys that fitted out our house have used the following wires to wire in the switch, (they've nearly killed me twice so I'm allowed to call them that).
Old switch is labelled up as follows on the back
Yellow - Common
Blue - 1 way
Red - 2 way
Yellow and red have red tape on them, suggesting they're the live wires.
New switch has L1, Common, L2
So I'm thinking
L1 - Blue
Common - Yellow
L2 - Red
It seems obvious enough but the fact the yellow has red tape on it is making me second guess myself.
Any advice appreciated.
Old switch is labelled up as follows on the back
Yellow - Common
Blue - 1 way
Red - 2 way
Yellow and red have red tape on them, suggesting they're the live wires.
New switch has L1, Common, L2
So I'm thinking
L1 - Blue
Common - Yellow
L2 - Red
It seems obvious enough but the fact the yellow has red tape on it is making me second guess myself.
Any advice appreciated.
StoneRoad
heckling from the back!
Sweet FA
Check if the existing base is flat / sloping by brushing clear and then pour on some water and see where it pools or runs ...
Definitely raise the sheds up, but use bricks. Lay them in rows as dwarf walls - you WILL get wildlife living under there as you must leave ventilation / drainage gaps. Do not use wooden bearers on their own. Bricks are about 3" high so that will lift the sheds to just above that of the slabs. If you want more height, bricks then wooden bearers.
Thoroughly treat the fence / weeds etc before you put up the sheds and the shed walls that will be less accessible - I would use wire netting to keep the leaves from accumulating if you don't want to leave a wide enough gap to walk around.
You could put some bird / bee boxes up ...
Check if the existing base is flat / sloping by brushing clear and then pour on some water and see where it pools or runs ...
Definitely raise the sheds up, but use bricks. Lay them in rows as dwarf walls - you WILL get wildlife living under there as you must leave ventilation / drainage gaps. Do not use wooden bearers on their own. Bricks are about 3" high so that will lift the sheds to just above that of the slabs. If you want more height, bricks then wooden bearers.
Thoroughly treat the fence / weeds etc before you put up the sheds and the shed walls that will be less accessible - I would use wire netting to keep the leaves from accumulating if you don't want to leave a wide enough gap to walk around.
You could put some bird / bee boxes up ...
WouldBe
Dislicksick
You are correct.Wiring question, swapping out a switch for a dimmer. Theelectricianscowboys that fitted out our house have used the following wires to wire in the switch, (they've nearly killed me twice so I'm allowed to call them that).
Old switch is labelled up as follows on the back
Yellow - Common
Blue - 1 way
Red - 2 way
Yellow and red have red tape on them, suggesting they're the live wires.
New switch has L1, Common, L2
So I'm thinking
L1 - Blue
Common - Yellow
L2 - Red
It seems obvious enough but the fact the yellow has red tape on it is making me second guess myself.
Any advice appreciated.
View attachment 397414
View attachment 397415
spitfire
Walty McWaltface
They’re all live cables hence the rather cowboyish bits of red tape to indicate as much (there’s no neutrals in a switch unless it’s these new fangled WiFi ones).Wiring question, swapping out a switch for a dimmer. Theelectricianscowboys that fitted out our house have used the following wires to wire in the switch, (they've nearly killed me twice so I'm allowed to call them that).
Old switch is labelled up as follows on the back
Yellow - Common
Blue - 1 way
Red - 2 way
Yellow and red have red tape on them, suggesting they're the live wires.
New switch has L1, Common, L2
So I'm thinking
L1 - Blue
Common - Yellow
L2 - Red
It seems obvious enough but the fact the yellow has red tape on it is making me second guess myself.
Any advice appreciated.
View attachment 397414
View attachment 397415
So you’re just doing like for like and you’re right.
spitfire
Walty McWaltface
Ah right of course, thank you.
I have another switch that I will post up in a couple of days, tried rewiring but it gave me a little tickle so I think it should probably be earthed.
Out of interest, I assume the dimmer is a two way switch - as in it can also be turned on and off from another non dimmable switch?
spitfire
Walty McWaltface
Yes, there's another dimmer at the other end of the corridor.
But the switch I'm now talking about is elsewhere in the house.
That’s why there’s 3 wires. There’ll be 5 in the other.
Johnny Vodka
The Abominable Scotsman
Currently wondering if it's worth a go trying to fix a constantly running toilet myself. Have looked online and have tried turning a screw which is meant to adjust the water height, but to no avail. Beyond that, not sure whether taking things apart is a job for myself or a plumber?
Changing out a ball valve can't be that difficult, although I haven't done it myself.
StoneRoad
heckling from the back!
sounds like you need a new ball valve / float.
What happens if you lift the float up as far as it will go ?
Changing one is quite easy to do, but can be a bit fiddly depending on the cistern & incoming pipework. I hate the tiny modern ones with the top mounted flush button.
Spark plugs can shatter glass.
teuchter
je suis teuchter
If you can take the doors off, I'd do that, and lie them flat on the ground. Have the glass itself actually resting directly on something. Then give it a whack directly, probably with a towel or something on top of and under the glass. Then all of the force of the hammer is transferred to the glass and not to the frames.
Boudicca
Seaside Queen
Thank you.
The doors are not yet on and were flat on the ground, but my mistake was not to rest the glass on something.
izz
Increased Leisure Citizen
Hello ! Does anyone know of a supplier of small, visor-type cooker extractors? Our cooker is sitting within a chimney and we don't have much depth to play with, probably around 30cm. Most visors appear to be 45cm plus deep.
(Used to have a Rayburn, had to have it taken out and there's nowhere else in the kitchen for a cooker)
(Used to have a Rayburn, had to have it taken out and there's nowhere else in the kitchen for a cooker)
StoneRoad
heckling from the back!
OK, any tips on how to get glass out of cupboard doors?
I'm trying to do some fancy-arsed Ikea hack with Havsta units, but when I hit the glass with a hammer, it remained solid and has actually split the wood surround instead.
bit late now, but if the glass was held in by beads, then finding and removing the panel pins should let you take the glass out in one piece.
Unless it was sealed or glued in place.
Furniture glass is usually one or other form of safety glass, but I would still suggest caution in handling the bits.
InArduisFouette
Well-Known Member
all very relevant comments , i agree
Boudicca
Seaside Queen
It's Ikea, they don't use beading!
It's glued together so breaking the glass is the only way, I think. I just didn't expect the hammer to bounce off it. Will have another go when the rain stops.
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