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Basic DIY questions?

That and freecycle etc don't really seem to be a thing up here, people just use merkitplace or FB more generally for everything.

I can afford to buy a basic one anyway, just no way I can justify a shiny whizzbang singinganddancing £700 new toy for a few odd jobs
Yeah, for a few odd jobs, I imagine they're much of a muchness. Full on, daily use, and it pays to spend.
 
Yeah, for a few odd jobs, I imagine they're much of a muchness. Full on, daily use, and it pays to spend.
Yep. I have a tool belt with a few hand tools in it that together cost at least twice what I'm looking to pay here, which would be ridiculous for someone who likes to potter in the garden a bit at weekends, but totally worth it for me.

Hard to settle for the cheap option when you know how much of a difference good quality tools make to your own work though.
 
In a way I think it makes me safer? If you count all the tiny minor cuts and scrapes I probably injure myself a few times a week, and I can imagine how much worse those would be with power tools involved, so I'm REALLY fucking careful with them. It was partly a (lack of) confidence thing but I have that now.


Yeah I was looking at the sliding ones. I've worked with other people doing the actual cutting on one before so get the general idea but I do actually RTFM before using stuff too anyway.

Anyone have any opinions about Einhell tools? My other stuff is DeWalt but those are £££ and I figure it doesn't matter if it's corded and not battery..
Be careful. A good mate almost lost a thumb and a colleague lost a thumb and a couple of digits doing DIY with circular saws.
 
Might possibly be brown sleeving over the top. Also, cable with the same colour cores does exist for that very purpose as both of those cores are live.

If it was brown/blue or red/black cable, the blue or black should have sleeving, coloured to indicate it is a live conductor.
(Brown sleeving nowadays but was red prior to 2004)
 
Might possibly be brown sleeving over the top. Also, cable with the same colour cores does exist for that very purpose as both of those cores are live.

If it was brown/blue or red/black cable, the blue or black should have sleeving, coloured to indicate it is a live conductor.
(Brown sleeving nowadays but was red prior to 2004)
Oh, only just looked on bigger screen and can now see that if you are using that switch, you should connect earth wire to that terminal at the front of the picture

Ah. That's the original switch I was replacing. I followed it on the replacement (including not pulling that earth wire out) :oops:

Metal light switches are pretty silly, as light switches are particularly prone to DIYers not securely wiring them, but if they're plastic that doesn't matter so much.

That would probably explain why the replacement had far more plastic behind it?
 
The bathroom light blew last night, possibly due to the storm . It's one of the 4 pin butterfly bulbs.

I couldn't find any today in the shops and was told the 4 pin ones are now obsolete and 2 pin is all the rage :mad:

There are 4 pin ones online but they are 28w whereas the one I've taken out is 16w

Can I use that? Will we all die?
 
The bathroom light blew last night, possibly due to the storm . It's one of the 4 pin butterfly bulbs.

I couldn't find any today in the shops and was told the 4 pin ones are now obsolete and 2 pin is all the rage :mad:

There are 4 pin ones online but they are 28w whereas the one I've taken out is 16w

Can I use that? Will we all die?
Fluorescent lamps are usually matched with a ballast to suit. You won’t die but it might be dimmer / may not work / blow the ballast. Or it may work.
Fluorescent is being phased out though. You might as well replace the fitting for an LED one tbh.
 
After watching the shed slowly collapse into itself over the last few years, I've cleared the back of the garden ready for new shed(s).

For aesthetic reasons, I can't move the gate and have one long shed across the back so I'm going to have 2 sheds either side of the gate. A smaller one to put stuff in and a bigger one to put some stuff in but also to have a bit of space to work in.

I'm getting the basic sheds off Garden Sheds - Free Fitting* and Delivery - Easyshed.co.uk

Those who know these things - is the concrete flat enough for the sheds to be put up with no further prep?
I'm going to put the paving stones back between the sheds. Should I get the sheds raised a further 2" off the ground to allow for the height of the paving stones? (It's an option when you buy the sheds so not a major arse).
What have I not thought about?

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StoneRoad, Elpenor, teuchter, danski, presumably two sheds?

Where's friedaweed when you need him; he's something of a shedlord isn't he?
 
I'd prefer not to have the sheds standing on a surface where water is puddling rather than running off, personally. I've used gravel grids in the past which would have the added benefit of raising the sheds slightly to be more level with the paving slabs between them - not sure how cheap they are though (I got a massive job lot off freecycle)

Also is whatever is growing up the fence coming from your or neighbour's side, and will it need any cutting back at any point to stop it trying to grow into the shed?

And obviously do any external painting / wood treatment before putting the sheds up right next to a fence (shouldn't need saying but I've seen it done loads, usually followed by the shed starting to rot coz there's several years' worth of wet leaves piled up between the fence and an unpainted shed wall)
 
Surely you want a very slight drop to allow for water to drain into the garden as iona says it’s pooling on that concrete surface,

I would want enough space to get between shed and fence for any maintenance required

Also with a shed either side of what I assume is an access gate from the rear garden to a track which allows vehicle access, is there enough space for anything you want to get into the sheds (particularly with doors of one shed opening into your corridor)

Think you’d need to erect the big shed first due to space constraints.

Do you plan to have the bit between the two sheds covered like a sort of loggia?

I don’t regard myself as an expert on the subject but I did spend a lot of time looking at sheds this year so what I learned is fairly fresh in my mind
 
I'd prefer not to have the sheds standing on a surface where water is puddling rather than running off, personally. I've used gravel grids in the past which would have the added benefit of raising the sheds slightly to be more level with the paving slabs between them - not sure how cheap they are though (I got a massive job lot off freecycle)

Also is whatever is growing up the fence coming from your or neighbour's side, and will it need any cutting back at any point to stop it trying to grow into the shed?

And obviously do any external painting / wood treatment before putting the sheds up right next to a fence (shouldn't need saying but I've seen it done loads, usually followed by the shed starting to rot coz there's several years' worth of wet leaves piled up between the fence and an unpainted shed wall)
Thanks iona

Would raising it help re water?

Screenshot 2023-10-28 at 12.22.06.png

I think the plant is bindweed or something? I'll attack it now it's died back - I've had a go at it from the other side of the fence so it's already a lot smaller than it was.
 
Thanks iona

Would raising it help re water?

View attachment 397366

I think the plant is bindweed or something? I'll attack it now it's died back - I've had a go at it from the other side of the fence so it's already a lot smaller than it was.
I mean those will still be sitting in puddles of water at times, unless the puddling is only happening in places that will be totally covered by the shed and can't possibly catch any run off coming in down the sides of the shed and across the edges of the concrete. Treated, rot-resistant wood will still eventually rot, it's just a question of how much quicker this will happen if it's sitting in puddles of water half the year (idk) and how much cost and effort you're prepared to go to now to potentially extend the lifespan of the shed base by this unknown amount of time.

Not something I like to use generally but if the plant growing up the fence where the shed will be is totally unwanted and not growing in among other stuff from e.g. a flowerbed on the other side of the fence, that would be a time I'd consider killing it properly with something like glyphosate so it doesn't keep coming back (though partly depends what it actually is, which I can't tell from those pics on my phone screen)
 
Surely you want a very slight drop to allow for water to drain into the garden as iona says it’s pooling on that concrete surface,

I would want enough space to get between shed and fence for any maintenance required

Also with a shed either side of what I assume is an access gate from the rear garden to a track which allows vehicle access, is there enough space for anything you want to get into the sheds (particularly with doors of one shed opening into your corridor)

Think you’d need to erect the big shed first due to space constraints.

Do you plan to have the bit between the two sheds covered like a sort of loggia?

I don’t regard myself as an expert on the subject but I did spend a lot of time looking at sheds this year so what I learned is fairly fresh in my mind
In an ideal world, I'd have one big shed - 11x6 or something that goes to about where the current gate is. Then I'd have a panel where the current gate is and have a double gate where the far left panel is now. This would mean access to the back would be easier and I could pull the van right up to it.

Access to the shed is easy enough as the fence panels slide out of the concrete posts pretty easily.

Originally I was going to have a roof going between the sheds but it would probably look a bit bulky plus would restrict height access. Currently thinking I'll put a sail/tarp up between the 2 - my expert drawing on the post-its above give kind of an idea.
 
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