The Cycling Chat Thread

[Cid]

No. I haven’t. Something I know I need to learn to do

I've posted to the Park tool explanations before, really are the best I've found. Gears will inevitably slip, I think largely because of cable tension, but probably other stuff... If your derailleurs have posi limit screws rather than allen key, just be cautious as for some reason the heads always seem to be made from cheese.

 

[Smokeandsteam]

Thanks Cid. Much appreciated.

 

[sleaterkinney]

I'm wondering whether this is the bike for life i'm looking for . The steel Fairlight Strael:

As ridden by mad bloke James Hayden winning the Trans Continental race X2

That’s the one.

 

[weepiper]

I'm wondering whether this is the bike for life i'm looking for . The steel Fairlight Strael:

As ridden by mad bloke James Hayden winning the Trans Continental race X2

Nice. You may also wish to consider Shand

Stooshie - custom made Fast road / gravel bike | Shand Cycles

Stooshie Dropbar custom steel bike is the all-road bike. Built with oversized, lightweight tubes from Columbus

www.shandcycles.com

What are these Hunt wheels that seem to have suddenly appeared on all the trendy frames?

Magazines have told people they want them, so they want them. They're not very good build quality, largely.

 

[DownwardDog]

just be cautious as for some reason the heads always seem to be made from cheese.

They always get damaged because almost everyone, and almost all bike shops, insist on using Philips head drivers on them but they are NOT Philips head fasteners. They are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) heads and need a JIS driver. Park make one for exactly this purpose: the DSD-2.

 

[Cid]

They always get damaged because almost everyone, and almost all bike shops, insist on using Philips head drivers on them but they are NOT Philips head fasteners. They are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) heads and need a JIS driver. Park make one for exactly this purpose: the DSD-2.

Well that is a revelation.

 

[beesonthewhatnow]

Hunt wheels - decent rims, so so hubs. But they're very well marketed, and have just got themselves on the world tour with the Qhubeka Assos team, so they'll have a certain appeal to some.

 

[beesonthewhatnow]

I'm wondering whether this is the bike for life i'm looking for . The steel Fairlight Strael:

As ridden by mad bloke James Hayden winning the Trans Continental race X2

They're beautiful bikes. I'd love a Secan:

 

[Threshers_Flail]

I'm after a new hybrid - is this decent? I'm skint so it's a fair bit above budget but I can get it on 0% interest over 12 months. I'd like to buy 2nd hand but I don't know enough about bikes so wary of getting ripped off.

Giant Escape 2 Disc 2021 | Tredz Bikes

 

[sleaterkinney]

I'm after a new hybrid - is this decent? I'm skint so it's a fair bit above budget but I can get it on 0% interest over 12 months. I'd like to buy 2nd hand but I don't know enough about bikes so wary of getting ripped off.

Giant Escape 2 Disc 2021 | Tredz Bikes

Giant are always solid bikes. 2nd hand is even expensive these days.

 

[weepiper]

I'm after a new hybrid - is this decent? I'm skint so it's a fair bit above budget but I can get it on 0% interest over 12 months. I'd like to buy 2nd hand but I don't know enough about bikes so wary of getting ripped off.

Giant Escape 2 Disc 2021 | Tredz Bikes

Perfectly decent. Giant is a reliably good quality brand. Good brakes.

 

[Mation]

Potentially daft questions a-coming alert. I'm still very new to cycling and want to understand more about gears (and I don't drive, so don't have that as a frame of reference).

Question 1.
I've been looking at the chart below, from here...

cluster gear #	# of teeth	ratio front teeth(39)/rear teeth	ratio front teeth(52)/rear teeth
1	28	1.39	1.86
2	24	1.63	2.17
3	20	1.95	2.60
4	17	2.29	3.06
5	14	2.79	3.71

...and think it means that:

• in 1st gear, the rear wheel will turn either 1.39 or 1.86 times for every 1 revolution of the pedal, propelling me the least far, but also requiring the least effort
• in 5th gear, the rear wheel will turn either 2.79 or 3.71 times for every 1 revolution of the pedal, propelling me the most far, and also requiring the most effort

Is that right?


Question 2.
When going down a steep hill in, say, 5th gear, is the reason the pedals don't feel like they're doing anything because the wheels are already going faster than (in the above example) 3.71 revolutions per 1 pedal rotation? I usually don't pedal in this case, but sometimes want to, as it makes me feel like I would have more control (whether or not I actually would).

I'm sure you will anyway, but please be gentle My specific learning difficulty includes having trouble mapping between different terms for the same things if I'm learning them all at once, e.g. terminology such as sprockets, high gear, big gear, etc.

 

[Threshers_Flail]

Giant are always solid bikes. 2nd hand is even expensive these days.

Perfectly decent. Giant is a reliably good quality brand. Good brakes.

Thanks both! Found a 2nd hand one on eBay starting from £300 so gonna try with that first

 

[beesonthewhatnow]

Potentially daft questions a-coming alert. I'm still very new to cycling and want to understand more about gears (and I don't drive, so don't have that as a frame of reference).

Question 1.
I've been looking at the chart below, from here...

cluster gear #	# of teeth	ratio front teeth(39)/rear teeth	ratio front teeth(52)/rear teeth
1	28	1.39	1.86
2	24	1.63	2.17
3	20	1.95	2.60
4	17	2.29	3.06
5	14	2.79	3.71

...and think it means that:

• in 1st gear, the rear wheel will turn either 1.39 or 1.86 times for every 1 revolution of the pedal, propelling me the least far, but also requiring the least effort
• in 5th gear, the rear wheel will turn either 2.79 or 3.71 times for every 1 revolution of the pedal propelling me the most far, and also requiring the most effort

Is that right?


Question 2.
When going down a steep hill in, say, 5th gear, is the reason the pedals don't feel like they're doing anything because the wheels are already going faster than (in the above example) 3.71 revolutions per 1 pedal rotation? I usually don't pedal in this case, but sometimes want to, as it makes me feel like I would have more control (whether or not I actually would).

I'm sure you will anyway, but please be gentle My specific learning difficulty includes having trouble mapping between different terms for the same things if I'm learning them all at once, e.g. terminology such as sprockets, etc.

Correct.

The going down hill thing is referred to as “spinning out”. Don’t worry about pedalling at this point, enjoy the rest and knowing you’re going fast and are therefore winning.

 

[sideboob]

Potentially daft questions a-coming alert. I'm still very new to cycling and want to understand more about gears (and I don't drive, so don't have that as a frame of reference).

Question 1.
I've been looking at the chart below, from here...

cluster gear #	# of teeth	ratio front teeth(39)/rear teeth	ratio front teeth(52)/rear teeth
1	28	1.39	1.86
2	24	1.63	2.17
3	20	1.95	2.60
4	17	2.29	3.06
5	14	2.79	3.71

...and think it means that:

• in 1st gear, the rear wheel will turn either 1.39 or 1.86 times for every 1 revolution of the pedal, propelling me the least far, but also requiring the least effort
• in 5th gear, the rear wheel will turn either 2.79 or 3.71 times for every 1 revolution of the pedal, propelling me the most far, and also requiring the most effort

Is that right?


Question 2.
When going down a steep hill in, say, 5th gear, is the reason the pedals don't feel like they're doing anything because the wheels are already going faster than (in the above example) 3.71 revolutions per 1 pedal rotation? I usually don't pedal in this case, but sometimes want to, as it makes me feel like I would have more control (whether or not I actually would).

I'm sure you will anyway, but please be gentle My specific learning difficulty includes having trouble mapping between different terms for the same things if I'm learning them all at once, e.g. terminology such as sprockets, high gear, big gear, etc.

I wouldn`t worry about the gearing to much. Changing out the rear sprocket is common, and cheap, especially if it`s only got 8 or 9 cogs. I`ve put a larger rear sprocket on every bike I own, I ride really slow

 

[Mation]

I wouldn`t worry about the gearing to much. Changing out the rear sprocket is common, and cheap, especially if it`s only got 8 or 9 cogs. I`ve put a larger rear sprocket on every bike I own, I ride really slow

I'm not worrying. I want to understand how my chariot works.

And I have no idea what the rest of what you said means

 

[maomao]

Potentially daft questions a-coming alert. I'm still very new to cycling and want to understand more about gears (and I don't drive, so don't have that as a frame of reference).

Question 1.
I've been looking at the chart below, from here...

cluster gear #	# of teeth	ratio front teeth(39)/rear teeth	ratio front teeth(52)/rear teeth
1	28	1.39	1.86
2	24	1.63	2.17
3	20	1.95	2.60
4	17	2.29	3.06
5	14	2.79	3.71

...and think it means that:

• in 1st gear, the rear wheel will turn either 1.39 or 1.86 times for every 1 revolution of the pedal, propelling me the least far, but also requiring the least effort
• in 5th gear, the rear wheel will turn either 2.79 or 3.71 times for every 1 revolution of the pedal, propelling me the most far, and also requiring the most effort

Is that right?


Question 2.
When going down a steep hill in, say, 5th gear, is the reason the pedals don't feel like they're doing anything because the wheels are already going faster than (in the above example) 3.71 revolutions per 1 pedal rotation? I usually don't pedal in this case, but sometimes want to, as it makes me feel like I would have more control (whether or not I actually would).

I'm sure you will anyway, but please be gentle My specific learning difficulty includes having trouble mapping between different terms for the same things if I'm learning them all at once, e.g. terminology such as sprockets, high gear, big gear, etc.

For extra points convert your gear to 'gear inches' by multiplying the wheel size by the ratio so gear sizes can be comparable between bikes with different wheel sizes.

But A+ on the rest. I have it in my head from pre-internet times that a bike has more traction when you are pedalling which would explain the feeling of control but can't find anything on the internet to back this up.

 

[Mation]

Correct.

The going down hill thing is referred to as “spinning out”. Don’t worry about pedalling at this point, enjoy the rest and knowing you’re going fast and are therefore winning.

For extra points convert your gear to 'gear inches' by multiplying the wheel size by the ratio so gear sizes can be comparable between bikes with different wheel sizes.

But A+ on the rest. I have it in my head from pre-internet times that a bike has more traction when you are pedalling which would explain the feeling of control but can't find anything on the internet to back this up.

Thank you both. These are useful answers that I can understand!

 

[Cid]

Yep... Giant are good. <e2a: this, was a stub from post draft, but yes - as others said Giant are generally great. Threshers_Flail do consider your size before buying though, as presumably you won't be able to try it out>

Thank you both. These are useful answers that I can understand!

If you plug your gears into a cadence calculator, you can see what speed they'll spin out at. Cadence is just how fast you're pedalling... 80-90rpm is roughly normal range. 50-70 grinding up hill... 100+ would usually be pedalling faster on a downhill, with rates over 120rpm getting a bit ridiculous.

Forgive me if this is just confusing, but you looked like you were nerding out on gears anyway, so thought I'd pop it in

 

[Mation]

If you plug your gears into a cadence calculator, you can see what speed they'll spin out at. Cadence is just how fast you're pedalling... 80-90rpm is roughly normal range. 50-70 grinding up hill... 100+ would usually be pedalling faster on a downhill, with rates over 120rpm getting a bit ridiculous.

Forgive me if this is just confusing, but you looked like you were nerding out on gears anyway, so thought I'd pop it in

I might come back to this when I understand more. Ta

 

[DownwardDog]

For extra points convert your gear to 'gear inches' by multiplying the wheel size by the ratio so gear sizes can be comparable between bikes with different wheel sizes.

Imperial units have no place in any cycling discussion. It has to be mètres de développement.

Possible temporary dispensation may be allowed for MTB wheel sizes.

 

[mauvais]

Yep... Giant are good. <e2a: this, was a stub from post draft, but yes - as others said Giant are generally great. Threshers_Flail do consider your size before buying though, as presumably you won't be able to try it out>



If you plug your gears into a cadence calculator, you can see what speed they'll spin out at. Cadence is just how fast you're pedalling... 80-90rpm is roughly normal range. 50-70 grinding up hill... 100+ would usually be pedalling faster on a downhill, with rates over 120rpm getting a bit ridiculous.

I know that training etc pushes you towards higher cadence but there's no way the average cyclist is doing these rates. Maybe 50-60 is 'normal'. I myself average high 60s although I should probably work on it.

 

[weepiper]

Imperial units have no place in any cycling discussion. It has to be mètres de développement.

Nonsense. Mountain bike and hybrid frame sizes and mtb and kids' bike tyres are still sold in inches. Cheaper bikes still use imperial bearings (1/4", 3/16" in wheels and BBs, 5/32" or 1/8" in headsets). Chains are imperial (1/8" vs 5/32").

 

[beesonthewhatnow]

I know that training etc pushes you towards higher cadence but there's no way the average cyclist is doing these rates. Maybe 50-60 is 'normal'. I myself average high 60s although I should probably work on it.

I think I it varies from rider to rider. My natural rate seems to be around 80rpm, any less is usually a sign I’ve run out of gears on a particularly steep climb.

 

[beesonthewhatnow]

Nonsense. Mountain bike and hybrid frame sizes and mtb and kids' bike tyres are still sold in inches. Cheaper bikes still use imperial bearings (1/4", 3/16" in wheels and BBs, 5/32" or 1/8" in headsets). Chains are imperial (1/8" vs 5/32").

And proper rides are measured in miles. A metric century impresses nobody

 

[Cid]

I know that training etc pushes you towards higher cadence but there's no way the average cyclist is doing these rates. Maybe 50-60 is 'normal'. I myself average high 60s although I should probably work on it.

I dunno, that seems very low to me... I mean I can only measure cadence on my turbo trainer, and that may make it a bit easier to pedal at a higher cadence than normal. But still, my normal on that is 90. 60-70 I would usually be out of the saddle. Clearly real world in practice you'll be at a lower cadence more often, simply because real hills... But I am pretty sure my cadence on flat would be 80-90. I am not particularly fit or anything. Well, I suppose I am in a sense, but also quite fat. Maybe I have just become some kind of cadence machine without knowing it...

 

[mauvais]

I dunno, that seems very low to me... I mean I can only measure cadence on my turbo trainer, and that may make it a bit easier to pedal at a higher cadence than normal. But still, my normal on that is 90. 60-70 I would usually be out of the saddle. Clearly real world in practice you'll be at a lower cadence more often, simply because real hills... But I am pretty sure my cadence on flat would be 80-90. I am not particularly fit or anything. Well, I suppose I am in a sense, but also quite fat. Maybe I have just become some kind of cadence machine without knowing it...

Looking through mates on Zwift, I think 90 is probably about normal in that respect but I don't think it applies outside of that to people who've never given training technique a thought, and I don't purely mean casual cyclists. I've got a cadence sensor on my bike, which is now on the trainer, and looking at my history it's 60-70. This is a mountain bike so that no doubt changes things but not totally. I've always had a preference for high gearing at least when not climbing steep hills in a granny gear, and I find higher cadence really weird and unintuitive, although I accept I should probably try and conform to do training plans etc.

I'm unfit now, and I never had cadence data when I used to do 100 mile days, but I can't imagine it will have been any different.

 

[Cid]

Looking through mates on Zwift, I think 90 is probably about normal in that respect but I don't think it applies outside of that to people who've never given training technique a thought, and I don't purely mean casual cyclists. I've got a cadence sensor on my bike, which is now on the trainer, and looking at my history it's 60-70. This is a mountain bike so that no doubt changes things but not totally. I've always had a preference for high gearing at least when not climbing steep hills in a granny gear, and I find higher cadence really weird and unintuitive, although I accept I should probably try and conform to do training plans etc.

I'm unfit now, and I never had cadence data when I used to do 100 mile days, but I can't imagine it will have been any different.

How do you view your cadence records? Is it an average cadence for a ride? I assume that would be quite different from observing your cadence on a consistent stretch of road... I'd also guess that mountain bike on variable trails would be significantly different, simply because the way you deliver power is so much more er... abrupt? Probably a better word. On long gravelly stuff it may be more analogous, but certainly on more technical stuff it's usually shorter bursts of power, and out of the seat. Road cycling is just much more oriented toward long, consistently paced work... And on Zwift - if you have a smart trainer - it sets your trainer 'difficulty' to 50% by default (it's not actually less difficult as such, just smooths gradients - effectively changes your gearing), which is going to allow people to pedal at higher cadences on average than would be possible outside. I can't imagine what gearing I'd need to get up my local hills at 90rpm. Or 80. Even 70 would be nice.

I think most authorities are saying self-set cadence is best these days, so if 60-70 feels normal to you, then there's probably no reason to fuck about with it too much.

But yeah, interesting diversion, I suppose - thinking it through - your average cyclist (not - as you say - casual cyclist, just someone who hasn't watched far too much cycling youtube/doesn't pedal to Zwift's default recommendation) probably would be at a lower cadence a lot of the time. Actually I think 90 probably felt pretty odd when I first started on Zwift.

 

[beesonthewhatnow]

My road bikes lowest gear is 34/32, which means I can still comfortably spin a pretty high cadence up climbs that are well into double digit gradients. Grinding away at anything below 65 or so just feels horrible to me, like my knees are going to pop.

Compact chainsets and big rear cassettes are fab


(my gravel bike has a ridiculous 30/34 lowest gear, could probably climb a cliff with that )

 

[Cid]

My road bikes lowest gear is 34/32, which means I can still comfortably spin a pretty high cadence up climbs that are well into double digit gradients. Grinding away at anything below 65 or so just feels horrible to me, like my knees are going to pop.

Compact chainsets and big rear cassettes are fab


(my gravel bike has a ridiculous 30/34 lowest gear, could probably climb a cliff with that )

My gearing is probably fine (42/42), it's the er... substantial extra load I'm carrying that lets me down in the real world.