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How was your cycle commute?

DownwardDog said:
Just use a length of threaded rod (M12-M20 is fine), two bolts and a handful of big washers.
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This is all a headset press is anyway.

Best headset cup insertion method I've seen is a kid in the skatepark next to Brixton Cycles putting the cup in the headtube, leaning the frame up against the wall and then kicking the other end of the headtube.
 
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Sigmund Fraud said:
The two headsets might not be compatible anyway - despite both being 1 1/8" and internal. I have the headset cup press tool, cup extractor and star nut tools if you want to borrow. Might as well spend £20 and get a new headset for the new frame...
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My confusion begins!

Some Googling reveals the headset on the Giant is an FSA No.11AGY (http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/402/141_2351/fsa-no11-agy---giant-ocr.html). The headset listed when you buy the Cube frame as a complete bike is CUBE Orbit Z-t, top zero-stack 1 1/8", bottom 1 1/2" integrated.

From that can you tell what headset I'll need to buy? Ta.
 
ChrisFilter said:
My confusion begins!

Some Googling reveals the headset on the Giant is an FSA No.11AGY (http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/402/141_2351/fsa-no11-agy---giant-ocr.html). The headset listed when you buy the Cube frame as a complete bike is CUBE Orbit Z-t, top zero-stack 1 1/8", bottom 1 1/2" integrated.

From that can you tell what headset I'll need to buy? Ta.
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The bad news is the Cube uses a 1 1/8" cup at the top of the head tube and 1 1/4" at the top of the fork (the crown race).The Giant uses 1 1/8" top and bottom. You need not only a new headset for the Cube, you need a new fork too. (there is a chris king 1 1/4> 1/18 adapter IIRC but I wouldn't fuck with that.)

Is it too late to send the cube back and buy another frame with 1/18th headtube?
 
I have weird proportions so very few frames fit me. Cube's do, so I'd rather buy another fork. Surprised at how much they are, tbh.

So I need to look for forks that taper from 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" then?

Thanks, Sig.
 
I guess the risk is that I buy the frame (£100), forks (£50), headset (£20) then discover other issues. TBH the Ultegra gruppo on the Giant is pretty tired, but it might just need a new chain and cassette (I recently replaced the standard chainset with a Tiagra compact).
 
ChrisFilter said:
I have weird proportions so very few frames fit me. Cube's do, so I'd rather buy another fork. Surprised at how much they are, tbh.

So I need to look for forks that taper from 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" then?

Thanks, Sig.
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The Cube website says 1 1/2" not 1 1/4". It also says the Orbit Z-t comes with a 1 1/8" adaptor so you're (probably) sorted.

I don't think an adaptor is a cause for worry as long it's installed correctly and the headset is appropriately pre-loaded. I've made and used my own before and they've been fine. Chris King and Cube are probably better at making them than I am...

E2A: just re-read all this and realised you're getting the headset already installed in a Cube bike so you're not going to get the 1 1/8" adaptor.
 
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Gloves on gloves, socks on socks, scarf, my thick hat, tracky bottoms. Brrr. Still sub-zero out there apparently.
 
ChrisFilter said:
Fuck it. It all seems too complicated! I'll just make do with a too big frame and keep an eye out for cheap complete Cubes on eBay.
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Blame taiwan INC and its insatiable desire to invent new standards and convince 40 something middle manager weekenders that an inch and eighth steerer isn't stiff enough to cope with the twisting forces of their sprint between cafe and lamp post. I think we're only 10 years away from using a 14" ceramic watercooled bearing from a Bell Huey's main rotor as steering bearing...
 
Gotya. I guess the reducer itself is universal? Or will I need to match Hope with Hope, Ritchey with Ritchey, etc?

Thanks for helping me with all the noob questions.
 
The issue with a reducer is its a steel shim sitting betwixt bearing outer face and lower cup. Its taking on the weight of the bearing and transferring it to the lower cup. It will work but it will accelerate wear of both the bearing, lower cup and the inner diameter of the frame tube material (guessing alu). It provides friction where no friction should be.
 
ChrisFilter said:
Gotya. I guess the reducer itself is universal? Or will I need to match Hope with Hope, Ritchey with Ritchey, etc?

Thanks for helping me with all the noob questions.
Click to expand...

They should be generic but there are no 100% guarantees in the bicycle parts cross-pollination game!
 
Sigmund Fraud said:
The issue with a reducer is its a steel shim sitting betwixt bearing outer face and lower cup. Its taking on the weight of the bearing and transferring it to the lower cup. It will work but it will accelerate wear of both the bearing, lower cup and the inner diameter of the frame tube material (guessing alu). It provides friction where no friction should be.
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There can only be friction if it can move so as long as it's a good fit and installed correctly it won't move. It will however crack an Al head tube if it gets too cold - say -15 deg. or colder.
 
DownwardDog said:
There can only be friction if it can move so as long as it's a good fit and installed correctly it won't move. It will however crack an Al head tube if it gets too cold - say -15 deg. or colder.
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There will be friction, even if its an interference fit or near interference fit, its a dead bit of metal where no metal is meant to be.
 
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