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How was your cycle commute?

Red could have had a head-on with Silver if he'd passed the other pair as wide as he passed GG.
 
I used to drive a car.
The only times I recall overtaking anything that was moving was on the motorway.
It must be a London - provinces thing.
 
Orang Utan said:
It looks like he overtook you. Hard to tell if it was too close, but it didn't look dangerous
Click to expand...

He overtook on a bend and at a junction.

166
DO NOT overtake if there is any doubt, or where you cannot see far enough ahead to be sure it is safe. For example, when you are approaching
  • a corner or bend
  • a hump bridge
  • the brow of a hill.
167
DO NOT overtake where you might come into conflict with other road users. For example
  • approaching or at a road junction on either side of the road
Click to expand...

https://www.gov.uk/using-the-road-159-to-203/overtaking-162-to-169
 
The thing is even if they don't actually hit anything, the potential for fallout on the cyclist(s) is large, and bear in mind that there was definitely one and probably two cars just behind me on the wrong side of the road lined up to follow the first moron like zombies as the apparently unaware cyclists ahead of me manoeuvred to turn right.
I can only hope the overtake would not have happened had those cyclists been correctly positioned in primary.

No one should be overtaking there - ever.
 
Just a shopping trip today, but it's turned out so pleasant and sunny I have my fingers crossed it will be like this tomorrow when I plan to do 20 miles or so...
My living room window is open for the first time in months. :)
 
Got me 20 miles in - needed something in the garden centre near the half way mark that would have cost a fortune to get by post. Only added 3 kilos to the bike for the moderately fast ride home.
I was glad I stopped half way to change into a dry tee shirt - though it was my toes that were getting colder by the end.
My MTB shoes are insanely well ventilated...
 
finally able to move enough to get bike to shop
front wheel buckled in the accident last week
luckily they fixed the other bit there and then so not charging for it just a new wheel and labour
 
gentlegreen said:
The thing is even if they don't actually hit anything, the potential for fallout on the cyclist(s) is large, and bear in mind that there was definitely one and probably two cars just behind me on the wrong side of the road lined up to follow the first moron like zombies as the apparently unaware cyclists ahead of me manoeuvred to turn right.
I can only hope the overtake would not have happened had those cyclists been correctly positioned in primary.

No one should be overtaking there - ever.
Click to expand...

Fairynuff :)
 
Grumpily taking the train this morning after getting through my THIRD rear wheel in as many years.

(Same each time, cassette becomes "disengaged" from wheel so transmission is lost, sorry don't know the right terms - pawls is it?).

LBS says sorry, just one of those things, but I'm not convinced anymore - surely either I'm doing something wrong, or they/the wheels are??
 
Pgd said:
Grumpily taking the train this morning after getting through my THIRD rear wheel in as many years.

(Same each time, cassette becomes "disengaged" from wheel so transmission is lost, sorry don't know the right terms - pawls is it?).

LBS
Click to expand...

The freehub. You can usually replace just the freehub body, it's a cartridge unit - depending on what quality of wheel you have it may or may not be worth it cost-wise vs just buying a new wheel though.
 
Woah, quick reply, thanks! Accidentally sent too soon with my sausage fingers.

But how long should a freehub last? Both times LBS replaced the whole wheel (I think fairly cheaply), d'you think they've just got a dodgy batch? Claimed no-one else had mentioned similar.

If it really is just the wheel, guess I ought to invest in a better one :-(
 
I've done every kind of wrong thing to my wheels, but never had that happen.
Freehub failure is what I would expect from serious off-road use.
Getting the freehub off and on possibly needs a special thin spanner ?
 
Pgd said:
Woah, quick reply, thanks! Accidentally sent too soon with my sausage fingers.

But how long should a freehub last? Both times LBS replaced the whole wheel (I think fairly cheaply), d'you think they've just got a dodgy batch? Claimed no-one else had mentioned similar.

If it really is just the wheel, guess I ought to invest in a better one :-(
Click to expand...

It depends really, if you are a big heavy rider or you go everywhere in high gears all the time or you're in the habit of jetwashing your bike it's easy to wear one out in a year. If you get a better quality wheel it'll last longer and be worth just doing the freehub body next time.
 
weepiper said:
It depends really, if you are a big heavy rider or you go everywhere in high gears all the time or you're in the habit of jetwashing your bike it's easy to wear one out in a year. If you get a better quality wheel it'll last longer and be worth just doing the freehub body next time.
Click to expand...

Nope, nope and nope (and no off-road use either, GG) ... though interested to hear it's at least possible to wear them out in a year. RE jetwashing: I don't, just bucket-and-sponge; but even so, could I be over-watering it?

Will start investigating wheels then I guess. Oh well, shiny new bike stuff for summer, I can get with that ;-)

Cheers :)
 
gentlegreen said:
I've done every kind of wrong thing to my wheels, but never had that happen.
Freehub failure is what I would expect from serious off-road use.
Getting the freehub off and on possibly needs a special thin spanner ?
Click to expand...

Colleague said pretty much the same -- he'd never even heard of it happening. But then admitted that the allen screws holding his handlebars on keep coming loose... :eek:
 
I serviced my bike at the weekend, and the ride to the station today was positively heavenley. Shiny new casette and chain that don't skip anymore and brakes that work. It's been a rough couple of months, the difference is unreal :)
 
Pgd said:
Grumpily taking the train this morning after getting through my THIRD rear wheel in as many years.

(Same each time, cassette becomes "disengaged" from wheel so transmission is lost, sorry don't know the right terms - pawls is it?).

LBS says sorry, just one of those things, but I'm not convinced anymore - surely either I'm doing something wrong, or they/the wheels are??
Click to expand...

You obviously need a super robust hub, maybe a Hadley?

http://www.balleracing.com/Hadley/Hadley_Hubs_Rear.htm

Or a CK?

http://chrisking.com/hubs
 
DD -- Thanks, but we're talking cheapy stock wheels, so not sure fancy hubs are the way forward... will bear in mind for the future though! :)

Took a look at wheels over lunch... Shimano R500s seem to be well thought-of, but from pics look to only have 24 spokes which seems a little low to me. These from Wiggle look better, but aren't designed for tyre sizes less than 28mm. So can anyone recommend a solid commuter rear wheel for a Sirrus with 25x700c tyres? Or am I barking up the wrong tree?
 
Pgd said:
DD -- Thanks, but we're talking cheapy stock wheels, so not sure fancy hubs are the way forward... will bear in mind for the future though! :)

Took a look at wheels over lunch... Shimano R500s seem to be well thought-of, but from pics look to only have 24 spokes which seems a little low to me. These from Wiggle look better, but aren't designed for tyre sizes less than 28mm. So can anyone recommend a solid commuter rear wheel for a Sirrus with 25x700c tyres? Or am I barking up the wrong tree?
Click to expand...

Sirrus is a fast hybrid... did it come with 25 tyres or have you put those on? I seem to recall they don't usually have anything narrower than a 28 on them and that the rear hub spacing is the same as a mountain bike (so those Deore-hubbed wheels in your link would fit) not a road bike (so Shimano R500s would be too narrow)
 
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