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Any electricians here? (Hardwiring a cooker advice)

Well with big open plan offices you would fit a dado trunking around the inner perimeter and then they can put in or remove sockets at will. Companies tend to be a bit fickle with layouts and it would cost a fortune to chase the walls at their every whim!
Still not surface mount (blech), though, is it?
 
Definitely no plate there from what I can remember. Just plain wall.

Will have a look tomorrow at undoing that surface box and seeing if I can straighten it up though.
When you take the cooker switch/socket off see if there are two cables in it,if not you'll have to run the cooker cable up into (the trunking is big enough to allow that).I'll be around off and on tomorrow if you have any questions.
By the way the warnings about turning the power of at the mains ( I'd turn everything off not just the cooker circuit) are very real and important.Also do it yourself (or mate who's helping you) and stick a bit of tape over the switch or even a notice.Never underestimate the possibility of some half wit saying it's turned off when it's not or turning it back on without warning.
 
i never turn off the electric when i do anything. even at work when i hammered some bits of aluminium into shape then hammered them into the three phase fuse box for the welding machine. it makes mundane jobs a little bit more exciting.
 
When you take the cooker switch/socket off see if there are two cables in it,if not you'll have to run the cooker cable up into (the trunking is big enough to allow that).I'll be around off and on tomorrow if you have any questions.
By the way the warnings about turning the power of at the mains ( I'd turn everything off not just the cooker circuit) are very real and important.Also do it yourself (or mate who's helping you) and stick a bit of tape over the switch or even a notice.Never underestimate the possibility of some half wit saying it's turned off when it's not or turning it back on without warning.

I will be switching everything off as I always panic when changing lightbulbs in hallway. I have three, one on left hand side, one on right and one towards back door. Back door one has its own dedicated light switch. The other two each have a light switch, but the lightbulbs operate off either of them, so if you switch light switch on on the left hand light switch, the right hand light also comes on and vice versa, so that always scares me when changing lightbulbs because light switch on one side may be in on position and off in other position, and lights are off, but the fact that one is on the on position, even though the lights are off, scares me! Don't know if that makes any sense :D

Anyway, my friend's done loads of rewiring in his own house so I'm sure hell what he's doing :hmm:
 
Right, as you know, I have no idea of amps/watts/voltage etc., it's all gobbledegook to me.

I took a picture of my fusebox, but I've a feeling that won't tell you anything. There's no numbers or anything, and I didn't want to pull it to pieces to see fuses etc.

View attachment 41399

The ones that are off in this pic have 'spare' written under them. Spare means unused bascally (it's spare!)
 
Why are some of mine off then?
The two that are off are spares(not used),although the modern convention is up for on and down for off this is not always the case.From the photo you need to drop off the double switch (red) that says a"all circuits" technically you should check with a meter even then but just turning off in this case will be enough.
 
The two that are off are spares(not used),although the modern convention is up for on and down for off this is not always the case.From the photo you need to drop off the double switch (red) that says a"all circuits" technically you should check with a meter even then but just turning off in this case will be enough.
By the way the last thing a sparks does is label the breakers so in a bid to finish up and fuck off home mistakes happen,don't trust a label unless you check it,which is why I suggest knocking off the main switch.
 
True. But then the elec should have updated the info. He's likely to have put the new circuits where the old ones were, like for like, though.

I know my old cooker was going somewhere else (or sharing something else, the doorbell I think) or something too technical for me to explain, because it kept tripping everything, so old electrician did something with it (although he said he shouldn't) and I told new electricians to rectify it now I was getting a new cooker. Whether they re-labelled anything, I don't know
 
I know my old cooker was going somewhere else (or sharing something else, the doorbell I think) or something too technical for me to explain, because it kept tripping everything, so old electrician did something with it (although he said he shouldn't) and I told new electricians to rectify it now I was getting a new cooker. Whether they re-labelled anything, I don't know

Well if everything is working it suggests that the two marked spare are actually spare.
 
See, now that's stupid. When you think that switches in this country go DOWN for on, you'd think they'd make DOWN = OFF!
It's all highly technical :) .In the states they generally work the other way round,but in the UK in darkrooms they tend to work in the American way to lesson the possibility of accidentally turning a light on.For a long time in the UK/Oz/NZ/Hong Kong etc down was on and up was off,because of European standards this has changed although you still come across plenty of circuit breakers etc which still work that way.
 
It's all highly technical :) .In the states they generally work the other way round,but in the UK in darkrooms they tend to work in the American way to lesson the possibility of accidentally turning a light on.For a long time in the UK/Oz/NZ/Hong Kong etc down was on and up was off,because of European standards this has changed although you still come across plenty of circuit breakers etc which still work that way.

I know. Totally confused me when I went to America and all the light switches were the wrong way up :D
 
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