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Any electricians here? (Hardwiring a cooker advice)

I'm not sure if there is a termination below the cooker switch or if it needs to be wired via the trunking back to the switch,if that's the case 2 metres will do it.The cost of cable for such a short length is only a difference of a few quid,better to have too much than not enough.

It's just occurred to me that with the new switch where it is, does that mean cable's going to have to go through kitchen cupboards and up into socket?
 
Normally you wire from the switch to an outlet and then a cable from the cooker terminates in the outlet aswell. You don't wire from the switch direct into the oven with the twin and earth.

I think you missed my edit also (I got wrong end of stick)
This may well be the case,in which case a metre would do.Although I'm a sparky I haven't really done much for twenty odd years.But I know enough to expect the unexpected.
 
This may well be the case,in which case a metre would do.Although I'm a sparky I haven't really done much for twenty odd years.But I know enough to expect the unexpected.

Better to be looking at it than looking for it, as the saying goes. :)
 
It's just occurred to me that with the new switch where it is, does that mean cable's going to have to go through kitchen cupboards and up into socket?

What normally happens is the wiring is done prior to the kitchen being fitted. It's not so easy as an after thought. Whoever did your electrics should know this.
 
It's just occurred to me that with the new switch where it is, does that mean cable's going to have to go through kitchen cupboards and up into socket?
It can go straight to the cooker, but don't expect to sell the property to someone with a Mortgage like that. TBH I've seen people jam bare cooker wires in the two live pins with matches and more in the earth pin on the (normal kitchen) socket and live, but I'd not recommend it.
 
oh right, just so I know in the future. Not that I'd be doing any electrical stuff, but in case I had a fire or something and wanted to switch off :D

Why are there two? I'm pretty sure I only used to have one :hmm:
Elfansafety probs.

Dunno really, have you had any work done before?

If you're unsure switch everything to off.
 
Oh, I think you're telling me not to use that particular plug socket (the cooker one) for anything else yes?

View attachment 41404

I'm pissed off it's wonky as well
I'm going to find someone's already answered this, but fuckit. Loosen the screws either side of the fascia plate, twist it to level, then retighten them. Chances are there's enough play for you to force it level.

I'm more offended by the surface mount pattresses. I replaced our storage heaters in the first flat I owned, and DAFUQ was I going to do the Electricity Company job and just nail twin and earth along the walls, with surface mount spur outlets. I channelled those mothers into some of the hardest blockwork I've ever ncountered, and dug out with my bare FINGERNAILS (well, it felt like it) the recesses in which to put properly flush switch plates. My hands were scarred for months from the razor-sharp fragments of concrete block that hit them as I chiselled and hammered my way into those bloody walls.

But I'd do it again, any time, rather than screw surface mount pattresses to a wall. It's just my "thing".
 
What normally happens is the wiring is done prior to the kitchen being fitted. It's not so easy as an after thought. Whoever did your electrics should know this.

Doesn't really matter, as getting a kitchen refurb next year.

It can go straight to the cooker, but don't expect to sell the property to someone with a Mortgage like that. TBH I've seen people jam bare cooker wires in the two live pins with matches and more in the earth pin on the (normal kitchen) socket and live, but I'd not recommend it.

I don't own property.
 
The red switch isn't two switches, it's one double pole one (switches both live and neutral). You only need to switch the cooker circuit off really though. And ensure nobody can switch it back on.
 
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Elfansafety probs.

Dunno really, have you had any work done before?

If you're unsure switch everything to off.

They installed that new fusebox a few years ago I think. Did a full electrics check when they moved it up an inch a couple of weeks ago
 
I don't own property.
If there was a leccy cooker before just wire it into the same place. Simples.

As I've mentioned before I know an awesomely competent electrician but they live in Haringey. They do live in a squat however, and wold possibly take payment in speed.
 
I'm going to find someone's already answered this, but fuckit. Loosen the screws either side of the fascia plate, twist it to level, then retighten them. Chances are there's enough play for you to force it level.

I'm more offended by the surface mount pattresses. I replaced our storage heaters in the first flat I owned, and DAFUQ was I going to do the Electricity Company job and just nail twin and earth along the walls, with surface mount spur outlets. I channelled those mothers into some of the hardest blockwork I've ever ncountered, and dug out with my bare FINGERNAILS (well, it felt like it) the recesses in which to put properly flush switch plates. My hands were scarred for months from the razor-sharp fragments of concrete block that hit them as I chiselled and hammered my way into those bloody walls.

But I'd do it again, any time, rather than screw surface mount pattresses to a wall. It's just my "thing".

*googles pattresses*
 
It's just occurred to me that with the new switch where it is, does that mean cable's going to have to go through kitchen cupboards and up into socket?
Have a look behind where the cooker goes there may well be a plate on the wall there which is where the cooker circuit terminates and where you wire in the cable.That would be normal but it's also possible you may need to run the cable up the trunking to the switch.
*googles pattresses*
Surface box,it's quite possible with a bit of practice to gently tap the box with a hammer to straighten it up,however the difference between straightening it and smashing the box is not great.
 
Boths!!!11!
TURN OFF ALL OF THE THINGS. Better to be safe.

My policy is TURN OFF ALL OF THE THINGS, THEN use your neon screwdriver (which you've already checked on a known-live supply) to make ABSOLUTELY SURE that live, neutral and earth are all dead.

I've had too many nasty belts while at the top of a stepladder because I didn't realise a downstairs light was actually on the upstairs ring, or similar, to trust to turning off switches, etc.

And if there is any other fucker in the house, switch off the power, then tape the cupboard shut with a suitable sign. I've had that, where some helpful bastard has wandered in, gone "ooh, look, the breaker's tripped, I'll just ..."...ZZZZZAPPPPP, you bastard.

It is lucky I have a strong heart :D
 

750 × 498 - diyfixit.co.uk


You mean as opposed to being sunk into the wall like this, thus not taking up more of my work surface?

That's how it's normally done. Surface electrics is only really for places where it doesn't matter if it looks unsightly such as an office. However hidden electrics involves bashing the hell out of walls and ripping up floorboards. Basically you need to redecorate after it.
 
That's how it's normally done. Surface electrics is only really for places where it doesn't matter if it looks unsightly such as an office. However hidden electrics involves bashing the hell out of walls and ripping up floorboards. Basically you need to redecorate after it.
Surface electrics (apart from, as you say, offices - though I'd be dubious even there - or garages/sheds) just say to me...

LAZY
 
Have a look behind where the cooker goes there may well be a plate on the wall there which is where the cooker circuit terminates and where you wire in the cable.That would be normal but it's also possible you may need to run the cable up the trunking to the switch.

Surface box,it's quite possible with a bit of practice to gently tap the box with a hammer to straighten it up,however the difference between straightening it and smashing the box is not great.

Definitely no plate there from what I can remember. Just plain wall.

Will have a look tomorrow at undoing that surface box and seeing if I can straighten it up though.
 
TURN OFF ALL OF THE THINGS. Better to be safe.

My policy is TURN OFF ALL OF THE THINGS, THEN use your neon screwdriver (which you've already checked on a known-live supply) to make ABSOLUTELY SURE that live, neutral and earth are all dead.

I've had too many nasty belts while at the top of a stepladder because I didn't realise a downstairs light was actually on the upstairs ring, or similar, to trust to turning off switches, etc.

And if there is any other fucker in the house, switch off the power, then tape the cupboard shut with a suitable sign. I've had that, where some helpful bastard has wandered in, gone "ooh, look, the breaker's tripped, I'll just ..."...ZZZZZAPPPPP, you bastard.

It is lucky I have a strong heart :D

THINGS? You mean all this lot?

http://www.urban75.net/forums/threads/any-electricians-here-hardwiring-a-cooker-advice.315661/page-2

All the little black switches?

Which way is on and off anyway?! Why are some up and some are down?
 
That's how it's normally done. Surface electrics is only really for places where it doesn't matter if it looks unsightly such as an office. However hidden electrics involves bashing the hell out of walls and ripping up floorboards. Basically you need to redecorate after it.
Surface electrics (apart from, as you say, offices - though I'd be dubious even there - or garages/sheds) just say to me...

LAZY

Housing Associations/Councils don't like to spend money on doing nice jobs unfortunately :(
 
Surface electrics (apart from, as you say, offices - though I'd be dubious even there - or garages/sheds) just say to me...

LAZY

Well with big open plan offices you would fit a dado trunking around the inner perimeter and then they can put in or remove sockets at will. Companies tend to be a bit fickle with layouts and it would cost a fortune to chase the walls at their every whim!
 
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