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Any electricians here? (Hardwiring a cooker advice)

Well, first thing is probably to trace along the wiring and note anywhere it looks like it could be damaged - obvious kinks in the cable, places where a staple has squished it down particularly viciously. If there's nothing obvious, it could be a problem in the socket at the far end (which sounds like it needs replacing anyway). Get your electrician mate to take a look in that and see what's going on.

Worst case scenario is that you have to run another length of telephone cable from the NTE5 to wherever you want the extension socket - that's no big deal; it's cheap enough, and not hard to do.

The cable goes outside the house from what I can remember.

Anyway, will ask him to look at it, but is it worth me buying an ADSL socket as there's no extra wiring or anything involved? Don't want to complicate things :D
 
The cable goes outside the house from what I can remember.

Anyway, will ask him to look at it, but is it worth me buying an ADSL socket as there's no extra wiring or anything involved? Don't want to complicate things :D
You can, but you'll need to either reconnect that extension wiring or leave it until you need the extension again. Make a note of the colours of the wires and which connection they go to (the connections are numbered) before you pull the existing faceplate off the wires.
 
You can, but you'll need to either reconnect that extension wiring or leave it until you need the extension again. Make a note of the colours of the wires and which connection they go to (the connections are numbered) before you pull the existing faceplate off the wires.

:confused:

Reconnect the extension wiring? I'm a bit lost as to what's the extension wiring. Pretend you're dealing with a 5-year-old :oops:
 
:confused:

Reconnect the extension wiring? I'm a bit lost as to what's the extension wiring. Pretend you're dealing with a 5-year-old :oops:
The wiring that is connected at one end to those punchdown connectors inside your faceplate (ie everything on the back of the faceplate that isn't the little plug that goes into the "test socket") and at the other to the phone socket in your room.

What I am saying is that you will need to pull those wires off the front plate (and tuck them inside the NTE5 when you replace it with the ADSL splitter front plate. Then, at some later stage, if you want to reconnect the phone socket in your bedroom, you will need to wire them to the corresponding sockets on the back of your spiffy new ADSL splitter front plate. OK? :)
 
The wiring that is connected at one end to those punchdown connectors inside your faceplate (ie everything on the back of the faceplate that isn't the little plug that goes into the "test socket") and at the other to the phone socket in your room.

What I am saying is that you will need to pull those wires off the front plate (and tuck them inside the NTE5 when you replace it with the ADSL splitter front plate. Then, at some later stage, if you want to reconnect the phone socket in your bedroom, you will need to wire them to the corresponding sockets on the back of your spiffy new ADSL splitter front plate. OK? :)

So I can just disconnect the wires off current faceplate, but leave them dangling loose (ie. connected one end to nothing, but connected to the back end of the back box that's connected to the wall) and just attach one of these to the back box?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0025X4OJS/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
Have a look behind where the cooker goes there may well be a plate on the wall there which is where the cooker circuit terminates and where you wire in the cable.That would be normal but it's also possible you may need to run the cable up the trunking to the switch.

oh, forgot to say, looked today after I pulled cooker out and saw this on the wall. As you can see, trunking goes through cupboard. Looks like it'll be fiddly to get cable up through cupboard as it goes from that and through and up

DSC00596.JPG
 
oh, forgot to say, looked today after I pulled cooker out and saw this on the wall. As you can see, trunking goes through cupboard. Looks like it'll be fiddly to get cable up through cupboard as it goes from that and through and up

View attachment 41471
The cable should extent to the box on the wall,so you'll probably just need a metre of cable.I can't see if there is a cable in the trunking where there's a break in it but I'd assume there is one.
 
So I can just disconnect the wires off current faceplate, but leave them dangling loose (ie. connected one end to nothing, but connected to the back end of the back box that's connected to the wall) and just attach one of these to the back box?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0025X4OJS/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You gots it. Wrap the dangly wires up loosely so they don't randomly connect to something they shouldn't behind the box, but apart from that, there you go.
 
The cable should extent to the box on the wall,so you'll probably just need a metre of cable.I can't see if there is a cable in the trunking where there's a break in it but I'd assume there is one.
ie, hopefully, when you take the front off the box on the wall after switching off the power to that circuit, you will find a termination block inside the box - you shouldn't have to feed your cable through all the trunking.

If you don't find a termination block inside the box, find your sharpest carving knife, sharpen it some more, video yourself chopping up some kidneys or a heart nearby to the offending pattress, and email the video to the electrician with the subject line "YOU ARE NEXT. SORT IT, FUCKER".
 
You gots it. Wrap the dangly wires up loosely so they don't randomly connect to something they shouldn't behind the box, but apart from that, there you go.

Oh, that sounds nice and simple (almost too simple, suspiciously simple :hmm:). I've bought that box that I linked to on Amazon as I didn't like the reviews for the BT ones. Hope it's the right faceplate. Thanks for help existentialist :)
 
The cable should extent to the box on the wall,so you'll probably just need a metre of cable.I can't see if there is a cable in the trunking where there's a break in it but I'd assume there is one.

There's a black cable coming out of the trunking. What's that for then?
 
ie, hopefully, when you take the front off the box on the wall after switching off the power to that circuit, you will find a termination block inside the box - you shouldn't have to feed your cable through all the trunking.

If you don't find a termination block inside the box, find your sharpest carving knife, sharpen it some more, video yourself chopping up some kidneys or a heart nearby to the offending pattress, and email the video to the electrician with the subject line "YOU ARE NEXT. SORT IT, FUCKER".


:eek::D
 
and I managed to get little latch in telephone extension socket open (and yes it was painted shut!). I thought there'd be a test socket, but I suppose as an extension, it doesn't have one. :D Doesn't work though and looks like this (different wiring to main socket)

DSC00614.JPG
 
Blimey. I never knew there were domestic cookers with a 400 volt option.
Is it a massive professional catering range ? :hmm:
 
Blimey. I never knew there were domestic cookers with a 400 volt option.
Is it a massive professional catering range ? :hmm:
Those instructions will be for installation on a 3-phase supply, I imagine. It's important, in 3-phase sites, to ensure that you are keeping the phases reasonably in balance (I think you get surcharged on your electricity bill if you don't), and a cooker being quite a high-load device, it makes sense to design it to be capable of being operated across more than one phase.
 
and I managed to get little latch in telephone extension socket open (and yes it was painted shut!). I thought there'd be a test socket, but I suppose as an extension, it doesn't have one. :D Doesn't work though and looks like this (different wiring to main socket)

View attachment 41493
The only place you'll have that "test socket" is on the network termination equipment box - remote extension sockets are completely plain and unadorned.

Interesting that the wiring is different on the socket - that's not what I would have expected. However, regardless of that, without anything plugged into it, the only reason that a fault could be showing at the exchange is if there is a fault somewhere in the wiring. Someone with a continuity tester could check for a wire-to-wire short somewhere. And, given that you have 4 wires there and only actually need 3, you would then be able to swap them around to leave out the shorted connection (almost certainly between the wires on pins 2 and 5 on that extension socket) and have a working extension. But that might be to overcomplicate things at this stage... :D
 
The only place you'll have that "test socket" is on the network termination equipment box - remote extension sockets are completely plain and unadorned.

Interesting that the wiring is different on the socket - that's not what I would have expected. However, regardless of that, without anything plugged into it, the only reason that a fault could be showing at the exchange is if there is a fault somewhere in the wiring. Someone with a continuity tester could check for a wire-to-wire short somewhere. And, given that you have 4 wires there and only actually need 3, you would then be able to swap them around to leave out the shorted connection (almost certainly between the wires on pins 2 and 5 on that extension socket) and have a working extension. But that might be to overcomplicate things at this stage... :D

Yes, you're confusing me. Think I'll just ignore the telephone sockets for now :D
 
Nearly "I'll have 2metres of you finest 6mm twin and earth cooker cable plus 100/150 mm (four or six inches) of the larger size of earth sleeving please my good man/woman".

Homebase was a complete waste of time. They only sell 5 metres for something like £13, and earth sleeving, well you can't buy 4-6 inches :D

I even asked guy if they sold cooker cable and he said no, but he could order it in
 
All welcome.
Probably best advice.
Get registered electrician ,this will save you and others life.
You can pay electrician,but you can't buy a life!
Niceic member
 
Yeh. If u need to ask about somthing like that then u shouldnt b doing it yourself. I was training as a sparky years aago but had to stop due to problems. Diddnt thay make it ilegial to do thing like this without a p certificate
 
Yeh. If u need to ask about somthing like that then u shouldnt b doing it yourself. I was training as a sparky years aago but had to stop due to problems. Diddnt thay make it ilegial to do thing like this without a p certificate

They brought in part P to stop cowboys doing domestic botch jobbies whilst also pushing qualified sparks out of the market who weren't prepared to pay a periodic fee to enable them to work (they may only do some private domestic jobs that wouldn't warrant the £750 fee or whatever it is). In reality, you don't really need part P to undertake domestic work, you just need someone competent enough to wire it to current regs and a part P spark to test it and issue the certificate.
 
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