Travelling around Portugal towards northern Spain
- Thread starter Maharani
- Start date
Wobbly WiFi!
That sketch sold for €100 and collected around €130 in drops over Two days. It also got me a job offer in Paris. Big job. About Six months work, but I declined it (so far). Very nice money - just don't fancy it.
Up my prices again tomorrow.
That sketch sold for €100 and collected around €130 in drops over Two days. It also got me a job offer in Paris. Big job. About Six months work, but I declined it (so far). Very nice money - just don't fancy it.
Up my prices again tomorrow.
A few general observations from a personal perspective.
I am still really enjoying Porto. Let's get the negative stuff out of the way firstly - it is very minor. Almost insignificant, but needs to be mentioned for the entire story. My painting box was stolen last night. I'm not really bothered, because I was going to pass it on to a fellow artist before starting to hike anyway. My own fault for sleeping out in a vulnerable place on a half bottle of ruby port. I took the risk simply because I felt there was no risk. It is incredibly safe here. No obvious risk of muggings, or bag snatching - nothing like that whatsoever. I should consider myself fortunate that they didn't get anything of real value. Paints and brushes can be replaced easily for about €100. I saved €35 on a bed anyway. Nothing has spoiled my experience yet.
The biggest risk here comes from short changing/over charging. Be careful. If you hand over a €20 note for a small purchase, say 'Twenty' and make eye contact when doing so. It is sadly very prevalent here in the heart of the tourist town.
I spend free time out in the suburbs. Touristville is my work - I come from a very different perspective to the average visitor. The average visitor will never see the real Porto. Very easy to forget about the 'other' city when it is screened from view by the hills on the river bank. I haven't managed to find an 'alternative' barrio. There doesn't seem to be a centre for artists, musicians, writers and the like - everything and everyone is all over the city mingling together.
Generally the atmosphere is much more gentle than Spain. Less noise (except for the way parents seem to shout at their children as is they're dogs). There is no macho bravado. Everything is a little more sophisticated and refined. Cafes and bars to suit all tastes in decor and food. Plenty of 100% vegan places. Almost all half decent places offer vegetarian menus. Get away from the high business rates and rents of the old town, and you will find stupidly cheap fruit and veg shops stocked with seasonal, local produce. I just bought Three juicy peaches for 30 Cents!
Beer is more expensive than Spain. Super Bock (stupid name and shit beer) seem to have a bit of a monopoly here. Alternatives are not easy to find. Tax plays a bigger part in most things. Want to receive a parcel of goodies from ebay here? You pay 25% tax on the value of goods plus an administration fee. Go look at the shipping options for Portugal on any website - many don't even offer delivery to Portugal.
Port is as cheap as you would expect. €5 will buy a bottle of reasonable quality, famous name Tawny, Ruby, or White. If you want to die young from liver rot and lose your teeth prematurely you can do it very affordably here.
Cannabis is decriminalised as mentioned earlier. Police tell me personal possession allowance is 25 Grammes for weed, 5 Grammes for hash. Personally, I would stick to the 10 and 2 Gramme allowance I mentioned earlier. I could see an easy argument for 'intent to supply' if you're on the street with 25 Grammes in pocket.
Bar and cafe culture is fabulous. Possibly better than any other city I have visited. The choice is so varied. My personal favourite for treating myself is a bar not too far from the Ribeira named Cris. Not good for outdoor terraces, but the interior and the service makes you want to enjoy a good meal indoors.
I don't really have anything to complain about as a visitor. However, I wouldn't choose to live here. As a tourist you probably wouldn't notice. My own perspective is finding the Catholic conservatism, and the 'in your face' preaching from total strangers very oppressive. That's just me - I do my best to respect every belief, but if you start throwing bollocks in my ears I will start to spit.
I am still really enjoying Porto. Let's get the negative stuff out of the way firstly - it is very minor. Almost insignificant, but needs to be mentioned for the entire story. My painting box was stolen last night. I'm not really bothered, because I was going to pass it on to a fellow artist before starting to hike anyway. My own fault for sleeping out in a vulnerable place on a half bottle of ruby port. I took the risk simply because I felt there was no risk. It is incredibly safe here. No obvious risk of muggings, or bag snatching - nothing like that whatsoever. I should consider myself fortunate that they didn't get anything of real value. Paints and brushes can be replaced easily for about €100. I saved €35 on a bed anyway. Nothing has spoiled my experience yet.
The biggest risk here comes from short changing/over charging. Be careful. If you hand over a €20 note for a small purchase, say 'Twenty' and make eye contact when doing so. It is sadly very prevalent here in the heart of the tourist town.
I spend free time out in the suburbs. Touristville is my work - I come from a very different perspective to the average visitor. The average visitor will never see the real Porto. Very easy to forget about the 'other' city when it is screened from view by the hills on the river bank. I haven't managed to find an 'alternative' barrio. There doesn't seem to be a centre for artists, musicians, writers and the like - everything and everyone is all over the city mingling together.
Generally the atmosphere is much more gentle than Spain. Less noise (except for the way parents seem to shout at their children as is they're dogs). There is no macho bravado. Everything is a little more sophisticated and refined. Cafes and bars to suit all tastes in decor and food. Plenty of 100% vegan places. Almost all half decent places offer vegetarian menus. Get away from the high business rates and rents of the old town, and you will find stupidly cheap fruit and veg shops stocked with seasonal, local produce. I just bought Three juicy peaches for 30 Cents!
Beer is more expensive than Spain. Super Bock (stupid name and shit beer) seem to have a bit of a monopoly here. Alternatives are not easy to find. Tax plays a bigger part in most things. Want to receive a parcel of goodies from ebay here? You pay 25% tax on the value of goods plus an administration fee. Go look at the shipping options for Portugal on any website - many don't even offer delivery to Portugal.
Port is as cheap as you would expect. €5 will buy a bottle of reasonable quality, famous name Tawny, Ruby, or White. If you want to die young from liver rot and lose your teeth prematurely you can do it very affordably here.
Cannabis is decriminalised as mentioned earlier. Police tell me personal possession allowance is 25 Grammes for weed, 5 Grammes for hash. Personally, I would stick to the 10 and 2 Gramme allowance I mentioned earlier. I could see an easy argument for 'intent to supply' if you're on the street with 25 Grammes in pocket.
Bar and cafe culture is fabulous. Possibly better than any other city I have visited. The choice is so varied. My personal favourite for treating myself is a bar not too far from the Ribeira named Cris. Not good for outdoor terraces, but the interior and the service makes you want to enjoy a good meal indoors.
I don't really have anything to complain about as a visitor. However, I wouldn't choose to live here. As a tourist you probably wouldn't notice. My own perspective is finding the Catholic conservatism, and the 'in your face' preaching from total strangers very oppressive. That's just me - I do my best to respect every belief, but if you start throwing bollocks in my ears I will start to spit.
I keep thinking of many questions to ask you, but forget when I log on here
The locals are warming to me - work is coming that will take me away from tourist areas if I choose to do so. I have to do a coats of arms/logo and label for a new port wine brand. Logo has to include tigers!!!
I will be staying with my friend from Louisiana for the next few nights. Monday I will almost certainly trek the way you suggest. However, my work is my job, and I need tourists and all the good and bad that comes with it. As I type, my meal arrives with a beer. Menu price €5 for the meal, price on the bill €7.30. Every penny they can pinch will be pinched
chilango
Hypothetical Wanker
In my day the area around the Art Faculty of the University (FBAUP) was - understandably - kinda arty and alternative. As was the Fontainhas district nearby. There was my communist squat, semi-squatted studio spaces, a nascent social centre, small scale art stuff happening etc. A few notable "alternative" bars, though neighbourhood bars were more commonly used.
Never experienced any "catholic conservatism" when I was there. But then I was embedded amongst lefty art students. The PCP still had a strong presence as did the Bloco Esquerda, but so did the anarchist counter-culture.
That was over 15 years ago though.
Never experienced any "catholic conservatism" when I was there. But then I was embedded amongst lefty art students. The PCP still had a strong presence as did the Bloco Esquerda, but so did the anarchist counter-culture.
That was over 15 years ago though.
Last edited:
OK. It was Friday. This shit is still here. Spent the day sketching on Ribeira. A bunch of 'lads' were diving and jumping into the river. I was working - I will take the 6 Meter plunge another day. I love this. The outdoor culture. The freedom. No port authority, or local council operating here in fear of being sued. Accidents will happen of course. But, compared to a 14 year old getting shit faced on Tennants Super in some wet, cold town in the UK and being hit by a car...??? Four year olds jumping with arm bands all the way up to dads and uncles in their mid Twenties sommersaulting and diving spectacularly. A very beautiful, and healthy thing to watch.
In the evening some young, very beautiful friends from Granada sprang a surprise visit. Friday night - let's go out, out, out and fucking well party (I am far too old for this). As has been mentioned above: head to the university building at the top of town. With your back to the entrance go 3 minutes go right for dressy clubs and bars and all the glitz with the stupid people. Go 1 minute left for the ordinary peoples bars. Go 2 minutes straight ahead for some mature conversation, or live music. Everything is here. I don't think I can recall so many young men wanting to buy me a drink. I felt like an adopted dad, or guardian, or perhaps more accurately; a chaperone. Not sure whether to
or feel a bit 
Still had fun anyway. Shame I don't stand a chance of getting into the .... nah. Let's leave that be.I have lived, and worked in some of the most Rock and Roll cities this planet has to offer. And, I mean seriously lived - I am a very willing risk taker. Sometimes a 'man of extremes'. That said, I have never really enjoyed coke and amphetamines. I have tried the best. Rich, yellow waxy stuff straight off the boat. It just doesn't do it for me. I stick to the things that offer more value!
If you really want to see the affects of Portugal's drug decriminalisation laws come this way. Never before in my life have I seen so much white powder cut and snorted from the screen of a Samsung Galaxy S8. NEVER! Every street corner €5 and €10 lines being nasally hoovered every 5, or 10 minutes very blatantly. Minimal police presence. No police intervention. Some under-covers easy to spot in such an environment. Just look for the gay couple with their man bags full of hidden police paraphernalia. Sorry gay people - this is just the way it is. Nor were there any tears. Not a hint of imminent violence. Just lots and lots of fun, fun, fun.
This is the way life should be. If you're not shitting on anybody else, not causing bother, then there is no need for legal enforcement.
------------------------
I am desperate to go hiking in the sticks. One sketch to sell. Pockets took a real hammering the last couple of nights, but I have new hiking boots and all essentials. Was going to buy a camera, but I am going to buy a fishing rod and cooking pot instead
I have a plan for a new thread in 'Suburban'. They like me there Hope I haven't spoiled this thread. Somewhere in all my creative writing is very useful info'. Honest.
I love this town. Seriously, it is on my top Three list.
Perhaps I should buy a new camera?
Perhaps I should buy a new camera?
Sorry for hijacking the thread
Slept out and woke up with a cat and Two dead rats. Nice. €35 saved for the cost of a tin of sardines reward.
OK. Walk into chemist holding empty Salbutamol inhaler. Smile nicely at the lady. Plead ignorance...
I have the vague notion that this post probably fits a Kliban cartoon somewhere.
I leave Porto tomorrow, but will return. Fabulous place. Absolutely loved every minute. A certain U75 poster I have known for some time may well meet me when I return at her convenience.
I would encourage anyone who visits to get out to the suburbs also. The old town is charming, but the city offers much more in a contemporary Portuguese style. If you are on a tight budget a 10 minute walk away from touristville will save €€€'s! I am now in a cafe which offers a large beer for just €1.90, a simple coffee for just €0.45 Cents and very affordable, good meals. It is actually right on the edge of the tourist trap. It is called Low-cost.come Or, possibly low-costa.come (shit typeface/logo. Just up the hill from the central McDonalds. Free WiFi also, obviously!
Off to prepare for my new 'project' in Suburban Will post here also if anything interesting for travellers occurs.
I love it here in Portugal. Something will surely trip me up sooner, or later, but hey...
I would encourage anyone who visits to get out to the suburbs also. The old town is charming, but the city offers much more in a contemporary Portuguese style. If you are on a tight budget a 10 minute walk away from touristville will save €€€'s! I am now in a cafe which offers a large beer for just €1.90, a simple coffee for just €0.45 Cents and very affordable, good meals. It is actually right on the edge of the tourist trap. It is called Low-cost.come Or, possibly low-costa.come (shit typeface/logo. Just up the hill from the central McDonalds. Free WiFi also, obviously!
Off to prepare for my new 'project' in Suburban
Will post here also if anything interesting for travellers occurs.I love it here in Portugal. Something will surely trip me up sooner, or later, but hey...
dessiato
🇪🇸 my spirit is crying for leaving
Me too. But it's very different to spain.
The39thStep
Urban critical thinker
I love it over here. No traffic, no noise from trains planes and drunks . Food is great , weather great , lovely unspoilt country side and if you become part of the local community you'll have an extended family. We know loads of Brits who all they see is other Brits regularly and monotonously , shopping at Iceland not speaking a word of Portuguese.
As someone who lives in the heart of society whilst living on the fringe at the same time, I have just one concern about Portugal. A BIG concern. All the private security companies patrolling streets of towns and villages. 'Guarding' private/public spaces. They are unaccountable, and very poorly (if at all) trained to deal with many situations.
Compared to Spain, the police presence is almost unnoticed to me, but is the price for this too many 'meatheads' trying to police outside of the law?
The39thStep
Urban critical thinker
Very few here
Boris Sprinkler
Dont be scared
Started from Lisbon this morning. Just made the first Alberque and enjoying a Sagres in the sun. Got myself about 20 grams hash last night. Its fucking scorchio
davesgcr
Reading books
Purely for academic research , how much was that quantity of hash ? (and is it decent ?)
Boris Sprinkler
Dont be scared
About 1200 and its ok. I prefer weed but i was going to get ripped off and it was substandard.
This is moroccan squidge and it does the job
This is moroccan squidge and it does the job
Boris Sprinkler
Dont be scared
Thats danish krona. About 150 Euros
davesgcr
Reading books
Thanks - decent enough price then. UK prices if you have the right connections !
Must plan a trip out there sometime as this ,and great food / scenery etc make it a good one. The opposite to Switzerland which is almost unaffordable for us poor British. !
Boris Sprinkler
Dont be scared
No connections, went with a local roadman.
He spotted me straight away sitting at a restaurant. Same in Barcelona, and Camden. They just know who to approach.
He spotted me straight away sitting at a restaurant. Same in Barcelona, and Camden. They just know who to approach.
Boris Sprinkler
Dont be scared
The39thStep
Urban critical thinker
Only smells like that when it uncooked to be fair and it’s better value than their cheap steaks . You are right on the vegetarian front though , outside of cities there isn’t much choice . I asked my neighbours about local restaurants that would serve food without fish or meat and they asked me is she was ill.
Boris Sprinkler
Dont be scared
So currently in Golegá, 141 km since Saturday. 488 to Santiago des Compostela
davesgcr
Reading books
Boris Sprinkler
Dont be scared
No, i am not artistic. Nor having to hustle. The heat makes it interesting for sure. As in I have to make sure i have water enough, not alot of planning has been made so i dont really know where I am spending each night. Or even if i will go all the way to Santiago, i did Porto to Santiago last year and am thinking i might just make it as far as there and then go for a smoke in Amsterdam or Barcelona.
