planetgeli
There's no future in England's dreaming
Noooooooo! Finisterre has nothing going for it. Been there, done that, let my mistake mean you don't have to. There are far, far nicer places all over northern Spain.
Travelling around Portugal towards northern Spain
- Thread starter Maharani
- Start date
Noooooooo! Finisterre has nothing going for it. Been there, done that, let my mistake mean you don't have to. There are far, far nicer places all over northern Spain.
dessiato
🇪🇸 my spirit is crying for leaving
30 miles a day, 8 hours at a gentle pace. Very doable.
dessiato
🇪🇸 my spirit is crying for leaving
What about the traditional throwing away of shoes after completing the casino?
planetgeli
There's no future in England's dreaming
Other shoe disposal options are available.
Seriously, it's like the town, apart from one small spruced up bit by the harbour, has taken the translation of its name a bit too literally. It's grim and not pretty in the slightest. There's a reason the Romans turned around there and I suspect it wasn't entirely to do with the ocean.
Maggot
The Cake of Liberty
Nearly 4mph is not a gentle pace! And that's without stopping for breaks, lunch etc. 15 miles per day is a much more reasonable target.
dessiato
🇪🇸 my spirit is crying for leaving
In my defence I'm ex infantry and 4mph is an easy pace, IMO.
Maggot
The Cake of Liberty
I enjoyed Finisterre. Great views, had delicious Polpo in a restaurant whilst watching the sunset over the harbour.Other shoe disposal options are available.
Seriously, it's like the town, apart from one small spruced up bit by the harbour, has taken the translation of its name a bit too literally. It's grim and not pretty in the slightest. There's a reason the Romans turned around there and I suspect it wasn't entirely to do with the ocean.
dessiato
🇪🇸 my spirit is crying for leaving
Found this:
Porto to Santiago in a Week
Lots of info on it. One point it makes, which is very valid, there's a long motorway stretch unless you go coastal route.
Porto to Santiago in a Week
Lots of info on it. One point it makes, which is very valid, there's a long motorway stretch unless you go coastal route.
Camino Norte, Camino Ingles and the main Camino Frances all pass through Northern Spain. Other routes also obviously converge on Santiago de Compostella. Camino Portuguese is supposedly very beautiful and relatively easy, but it is the only route I haven't walked.
90% of walkers head towards Santiago, but many people walk 'backwards' away from Santiago. The sanderos (paths) and albergues (hostals) are used by non-pilgrims also. It is popular with mountain bike groups.
IMO all of the routes have some very magical moments. Camino Norte follows the coast before cutting inland. It is breathtakingly beautiful much of the way. Camino Ingles is a short route - also stunningly beautiful. The main camino (Frances) can get busy during high season, so don't rely on the cheap/free pilgrims albergues.
To obtain your credential (pilgrim passport), simply ask at a church, or cathedral where to go. €1 gives you access to cheap/free accommodation. Collecting the stamps is fun also. There is a great sense of comradery amongst walkers. There is no 'hard sell' on the religious front. You meet people from all sorts of backgrounds - many people I met became good friends. Sweet Meiga posts here. We met initially as 'pilgrims'. She may have more advice.
Leon in Northern Spain is my second favourite city in Spain. Worth a couple of days and an overnight stay.
For further info go here: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/
As far as non-walking goes...
Buses are good value and very comfortable.
Blah blah car is extremely popular in Spain.
Trains are either very fast and modern, or very slow, but charming narrow gauge commuter trains. Euskotren is worth checking for meandering through valleys and mountains in Pais Vasco. Hop on - hop off at interesting little towns nobody knows about. There is also a small train service which runs pretty much along the entire coast from Biarritz. Great for coastal views, or visiting places like Guernica. You could use this train to travel to Biarritz and catch a connection to Bayonne for other mainline services around France.
In France there is a main GR route to follow across the Pyrenees. If you go that way be sure to visit Pau. France is around 40% more expensive for hotels than Spain.
I could go on forever. It is all very beautiful and varied.
Ask any specific questions. Don't pop by here often ATM, but I do check a couple of times a week.
Enjoy it - you are going to have a fabulous time
Camino Norte, Camino Ingles and the main Camino Frances all pass through Northern Spain. Other routes also obviously converge on Santiago de Compostella. Camino Portuguese is supposedly very beautiful and relatively easy, but it is the only route I haven't walked.
90% of walkers head towards Santiago, but many people walk 'backwards' away from Santiago. The sanderos (paths) and albergues (hostals) are used by non-pilgrims also. It is popular with mountain bike groups.
IMO all of the routes have some very magical moments. Camino Norte follows the coast before cutting inland. It is breathtakingly beautiful much of the way. Camino Ingles is a short route - also stunningly beautiful. The main camino (Frances) can get busy during high season, so don't rely on the cheap/free pilgrims albergues.
To obtain your credential (pilgrim passport), simply ask at a church, or cathedral where to go. €1 gives you access to cheap/free accommodation. Collecting the stamps is fun also. There is a great sense of comradery amongst walkers. There is no 'hard sell' on the religious front. You meet people from all sorts of backgrounds - many people I met became good friends. Sweet Meiga posts here. We met initially as 'pilgrims'. She may have more advice.
Leon in Northern Spain is my second favourite city in Spain. Worth a couple of days and an overnight stay.
For further info go here: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/
As far as non-walking goes...
Buses are good value and very comfortable.
Blah blah car is extremely popular in Spain.
Trains are either very fast and modern, or very slow, but charming narrow gauge commuter trains. Euskotren is worth checking for meandering through valleys and mountains in Pais Vasco. Hop on - hop off at interesting little towns nobody knows about. There is also a small train service which runs pretty much along the entire coast from Biarritz. Great for coastal views, or visiting places like Guernica. You could use this train to travel to Biarritz and catch a connection to Bayonne for other mainline services around France.
In France there is a main GR route to follow across the Pyrenees. If you go that way be sure to visit Pau. France is around 40% more expensive for hotels than Spain.
I could go on forever. It is all very beautiful and varied.
Ask any specific questions. Don't pop by here often ATM, but I do check a couple of times a week.
Enjoy it - you are going to have a fabulous time
Riklet
procrastinación
Ive walked Camino Portugues starting in Porto and would defo recommend it. Great fun and not as busy as the Frances.
Also it fits your itinary of northern Portugal and Spain. Altho Galicia is quite different. I mostly stayed in the albergues and official places and then in a hotel in Valenca to treat myself haha.
You could also walk it from Coimbra or Lisboa and see more of Portugal, altho there have been serious fires recently.
Also it fits your itinary of northern Portugal and Spain. Altho Galicia is quite different. I mostly stayed in the albergues and official places and then in a hotel in Valenca to treat myself haha.
You could also walk it from Coimbra or Lisboa and see more of Portugal, altho there have been serious fires recently.
Maharani
Just like Heaven
thank you for this...and apologies for late gratitude, didn't get alerted of your response...Camino Norte, Camino Ingles and the main Camino Frances all pass through Northern Spain. Other routes also obviously converge on Santiago de Compostella. Camino Portuguese is supposedly very beautiful and relatively easy, but it is the only route I haven't walked.
90% of walkers head towards Santiago, but many people walk 'backwards' away from Santiago. The sanderos (paths) and albergues (hostals) are used by non-pilgrims also. It is popular with mountain bike groups.
IMO all of the routes have some very magical moments. Camino Norte follows the coast before cutting inland. It is breathtakingly beautiful much of the way. Camino Ingles is a short route - also stunningly beautiful. The main camino (Frances) can get busy during high season, so don't rely on the cheap/free pilgrims albergues.
To obtain your credential (pilgrim passport), simply ask at a church, or cathedral where to go. €1 gives you access to cheap/free accommodation. Collecting the stamps is fun also. There is a great sense of comradery amongst walkers. There is no 'hard sell' on the religious front. You meet people from all sorts of backgrounds - many people I met became good friends. Sweet Meiga posts here. We met initially as 'pilgrims'. She may have more advice.
Leon in Northern Spain is my second favourite city in Spain. Worth a couple of days and an overnight stay.
For further info go here: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/
As far as non-walking goes...
Buses are good value and very comfortable.
Blah blah car is extremely popular in Spain.
Trains are either very fast and modern, or very slow, but charming narrow gauge commuter trains. Euskotren is worth checking for meandering through valleys and mountains in Pais Vasco. Hop on - hop off at interesting little towns nobody knows about. There is also a small train service which runs pretty much along the entire coast from Biarritz. Great for coastal views, or visiting places like Guernica. You could use this train to travel to Biarritz and catch a connection to Bayonne for other mainline services around France.
In France there is a main GR route to follow across the Pyrenees. If you go that way be sure to visit Pau. France is around 40% more expensive for hotels than Spain.
I could go on forever. It is all very beautiful and varied.
Ask any specific questions. Don't pop by here often ATM, but I do check a couple of times a week.
Enjoy it - you are going to have a fabulous time
Now, the plan has changed as my partner has to be in Germany and make his way from Dresdon and I will be in Portugal...so my next question is where would be a good meeting point (city with an airport) that we can meet in and then travel out to an area of natural beauty...we plan on walks, chilling by lakes, stumbling through villages and generally being in nature...I thought perhaps Leon? Or Madrid, but then we're not doing northern spain...we'll have two/two and a half weeks...maybe 3...
dessiato
🇪🇸 my spirit is crying for leaving
Porto?
In this thread 
I am about to take a bus towards Porto where I will meet up with a very good friend from Louisiana. He has been there for some time, so will have some good tips. Also meeting a very beautiful friend from Vigo - she will also have good info'. I then hope to talk them both into joining me on a southward bound coastal hike to Lisbon where I will meet another good friend from Bristol. He has spent Three years there, so will undoubtedly have lots of good tips.
I am on a money making holiday sort of trip. Supposed to be back in Granada mid September, but who knows. Open plan as ever for me. I will get into the hidden shit stuff of all around the coast of Portugal.
Alternative micro budget tips for accommodation.
I am about to take a bus towards Porto where I will meet up with a very good friend from Louisiana. He has been there for some time, so will have some good tips. Also meeting a very beautiful friend from Vigo - she will also have good info'. I then hope to talk them both into joining me on a southward bound coastal hike to Lisbon where I will meet another good friend from Bristol. He has spent Three years there, so will undoubtedly have lots of good tips.
I am on a money making holiday sort of trip. Supposed to be back in Granada mid September, but who knows. Open plan as ever for me. I will get into the hidden shit stuff of all around the coast of Portugal.
Alternative micro budget tips for accommodation.
Very pleasant 23ºC Walked into an almighty thunderstorm on arrival, but all is very cool and fresh now.
Porto has surprised me. Not sure why I was expecting something very different - sort of had an image of a quaint fishing port in my head. It is a thriving, progressive, prosperous, contemporary city surrounding a charming old town. Fabulous architecture (old and new). Not a single building appears exactly the same even though everything seems to knit together in a very coordinated way. Big river. Pretty boats. Cable car. Impressive bridges. Lots of little streets with great little bars and cafes. Old antique shops and small vendors outlets still selling things I thought had become redundant years ago. Antique shops everywhere. Churches and market halls. Fashionable contemporary plazas with lounge bar style terraces...
I like it lots. My friend who spent most of his life in the States describes Portugal (and Porto) as being much more European than Spain. By that I think he means it is simply more modern even though the traditional vibe and culture is preserved with an almost zealous conservatism. It just feels more 'today' rather than Granada's 'yesteryear and beyond' gentle charm.
Lots of people hiking along the very well way marked Camino de Santiago. Beautiful countryside walks with slow running rivers lush with green stuff and huge mountains of granite covered in pines and eucalyptus - geographically very similar to Galicia (it is not so far away!). Little fishing villages. Some still very much in operation as they have been for centuries. It is all very, very nice with just one exception; the fucking traffic in the city - it is a real spoil. My best tip for this city would be to take a long brunch, or do museums and galleries until 1PM when all the delivery trucks and service vehicles have fucked off, because they are a nightmare - it will spoil your day. Every Ten seconds looking over your shoulder making sure you're not about to get squashed. This is where they could learn something from Spain.
Budget accommodation is good and plentiful. Free WiFi is everywhere. My Spanish mobile does not work here. This is a problem for me, but that is just my problem.
Trying to hook-up with friends for some insider tips on alternative locals bars etc. In the meantime, I am going to do an almighty sketch on the Ribiera, because I have run out of cash and must remember this is a WORKING holiday
Porto is a very nice, complex and interesting place. Undoubtedly touristy, but without the hard sell, or big seasonal money grab. I expect I would like the place even more in the rainy off season.
e2a; I forgot to mention the hills. Stay here much longer and my legs are going to be super strong provided my lungs hold out. Not an easy city for non walking types.
Walked into an almighty thunderstorm on arrival, but all is very cool and fresh now.Porto has surprised me. Not sure why I was expecting something very different - sort of had an image of a quaint fishing port in my head. It is a thriving, progressive, prosperous, contemporary city surrounding a charming old town. Fabulous architecture (old and new). Not a single building appears exactly the same even though everything seems to knit together in a very coordinated way. Big river. Pretty boats. Cable car. Impressive bridges. Lots of little streets with great little bars and cafes. Old antique shops and small vendors outlets still selling things I thought had become redundant years ago. Antique shops everywhere. Churches and market halls. Fashionable contemporary plazas with lounge bar style terraces...
I like it lots. My friend who spent most of his life in the States describes Portugal (and Porto) as being much more European than Spain. By that I think he means it is simply more modern even though the traditional vibe and culture is preserved with an almost zealous conservatism. It just feels more 'today' rather than Granada's 'yesteryear and beyond' gentle charm.
Lots of people hiking along the very well way marked Camino de Santiago. Beautiful countryside walks with slow running rivers lush with green stuff and huge mountains of granite covered in pines and eucalyptus - geographically very similar to Galicia (it is not so far away!). Little fishing villages. Some still very much in operation as they have been for centuries. It is all very, very nice with just one exception; the fucking traffic in the city - it is a real spoil. My best tip for this city would be to take a long brunch, or do museums and galleries until 1PM when all the delivery trucks and service vehicles have fucked off, because they are a nightmare - it will spoil your day. Every Ten seconds looking over your shoulder making sure you're not about to get squashed. This is where they could learn something from Spain.
Budget accommodation is good and plentiful. Free WiFi is everywhere. My Spanish mobile does not work here. This is a problem for me, but that is just my problem.
Trying to hook-up with friends for some insider tips on alternative locals bars etc. In the meantime, I am going to do an almighty sketch on the Ribiera, because I have run out of cash and must remember this is a WORKING holiday
Porto is a very nice, complex and interesting place. Undoubtedly touristy, but without the hard sell, or big seasonal money grab. I expect I would like the place even more in the rainy off season.
e2a; I forgot to mention the hills. Stay here much longer and my legs are going to be super strong provided my lungs hold out. Not an easy city for non walking types.
Apart from the traffic in the morning (which was apparently especially busy today for an event stage set-up) I like it very much. Even the weird cold burger sandwiches are OK.
Just been talking to a really nice security guy who has lived here for very nearly all his life. He approached me and asked if it was me who slept (where I slept) here last night. My initial thought was 'bollocks - need a new safe place'. However, he continued to tell me that tonight it would rain, but if I wait until after 1AM I am welcome to sleep undercover and under his guard. He works until 7AM, so I am safely and dryly sorted with leccy and WiFi. Doubt I .will sleep much - he is exactly the sort of guy I want to listen to. Already been told loads of stories about 'old' Porto. I like the cut of his jib, and we seem to share the same political beliefs, so I'm off to stock up on tobacco, because he is all out of everything tonight.
Piss easy cash. Complicated sketch that went very well. Could have sold it Five times over. €100+ in pocket. Lots of interest from locals. Off to the other side of the river tomorrow to do the view back to Porto.
I will have to break from the Ribiera even though the cash is here. Too much Hollister and Gap for my liking if you know what I mean!
Will be sketching THAT Eiffel bridge more times. Fab challenge.
Smokers.
No idea if Maharani is a smoker. There are few of us left these days. Weird tax difference between Spain and Portugal. Buy your industrials/taylor mades in Portugal, and your rolling tobacco in Spain.
20 Rothmans €4 in Portugal, close to €5 in Spain.
30 Gramme pack of rolling €8.20 in Portugal, just €5 in Spain.
I don't get that one. Almost makes a day trip to Galicia worth considering.
No idea if Maharani is a smoker. There are few of us left these days. Weird tax difference between Spain and Portugal. Buy your industrials/taylor mades in Portugal, and your rolling tobacco in Spain.
20 Rothmans €4 in Portugal, close to €5 in Spain.
30 Gramme pack of rolling €8.20 in Portugal, just €5 in Spain.
I don't get that one. Almost makes a day trip to Galicia worth considering.
planetgeli
There's no future in England's dreaming
Ex-smoker here but with prices in the U.K. seemingly always having been high I remember many day trips on the ferry and coach to Belgium (where tobacco was always super cheap) and even cheap flights, even same day there and back, to Amsterdam for smoking and other combustibles.
Can't draw for shit but wish I could do what you're doing. Keep on sketching. Load one up on here maybe?
Can't draw for shit but wish I could do what you're doing. Keep on sketching. Load one up on here maybe?
I'm on the 'other side' of the river working on an almighty sketch of the view back to Porto. The other side of the river is actually a different town as far as locals are concerned - namely Gaia. Very different vibe here. Undoubtedly more upmarket with prices to match. A can of Super Bock was €1.10 from the corner shop in Porto. Here it is €2.50! Or, was - I benefit from artists rights once people see what I do. Often, the beer comes free. I suppose if you are on holiday with cash to match, you don't really care. However, I am counting every Cent going out more carefully than every Cent coming in. Only the influence of booze, drugs, or love can spoil my miserly budgeting.
Worth exploring the suburbs and beyond here to get a feel for the locals Porto. I am still really enjoying the place. Will post a sketch in 'Art' forum when finished.
Worth exploring the suburbs and beyond here to get a feel for the locals Porto. I am still really enjoying the place. Will post a sketch in 'Art' forum when finished.
It all went a bit Ibiza for a few hours.
-----------------
I forgot to photograph my sketch
On the upside, it found a very nice home with a young German couple for a very good price I am actually making too much money here. Other street traders will notice soon and not like it. Off to find a hotel room with a bath. Hate to watch the money go, but I feel like I've just gone 10 rounds with Kasparov after Three nights sleeping out (no real hardship) and Two nights trying to sleep on night buses. Mentally fucked. Need a hot bath with a bottle and a spliff followed by a full 12 hour recharge.
Promised myself I wasn't going to do that sketch again unless someone offered €10,000. However, realistically it is a very nice days work for a very reasonable return. May buy a canvas and up the price even more tomorrow - there is money here.
Already have enough money to hike south, but I would be stupid to walk away from this before I have to. Because, I will have to at some point. Knowing when to leave is sometimes critical.
planetgeli
There's no future in England's dreaming
Indeed Stanley, knowing when to walk away is an art in itself.
Shame you forgot the photo but entirely forgiveable. Enjoy your bath.
Shame you forgot the photo but entirely forgiveable. Enjoy your bath.
No bath to be found. Never mind. My insider info' led me to the very nice, centrally located, Braganca Hotel Porto. Small private room with balcony for smoking and airing classic Adidas Court Stars. Proper breakfast. Fully equipped kitchen. As much free port and wine as you can drink. €35 for a night in July. Very reasonable indeed. I'm going to drink at least 50% of that!
Braganca Hotel Porto.
Stanley Edwards rating: sound as a pound mate.
Braganca Hotel Porto.
Stanley Edwards rating: sound as a pound mate.
Beautiful weather. Fully refreshed. Found the art shop. Went trekking into scumbags part of town to find a second hand shop. Found a fabulous warehouse style place, so am all togged up in quality gear. Bought decent sunglasses for sketching on white canvas. Two orders came in by email to send on to France and Holland. And, finally made contact with my good friend from Louisiana. All is very hunky dory.
Then went deeper into scumbags barrios to see what life must have been like for Dessiato when he was here living in the hood. Ain't all middle class holiday makers and JK Rowling is it mate!
Then went deeper into scumbags barrios to see what life must have been like for Dessiato when he was here living in the hood. Ain't all middle class holiday makers and JK Rowling is it mate!
Cannabis laws in practice.
Much discussion on these boards about decriminalisation in Portugal. In practice, personal use is not a criminal offence. You can keep upto 10 Grammes of MJ, or 3 Grammes of hash for personal use. If caught it will just be confiscated and all forgotten as a tourist. It is still illegal. Intent to supply, or selling remain subject to the possibility of custodial sentences (as much as 4 years). Don't relax too much. Cannabis is not smoked on the street here as much as in Spain. The reality is you are better off in Spain, and it is cheaper.
As a non-tourist here you still may receive a fine, or have to take part in a drug education programme if caught smoking on the street.
Much discussion on these boards about decriminalisation in Portugal. In practice, personal use is not a criminal offence. You can keep upto 10 Grammes of MJ, or 3 Grammes of hash for personal use. If caught it will just be confiscated and all forgotten as a tourist. It is still illegal. Intent to supply, or selling remain subject to the possibility of custodial sentences (as much as 4 years). Don't relax too much. Cannabis is not smoked on the street here as much as in Spain. The reality is you are better off in Spain, and it is cheaper.
As a non-tourist here you still may receive a fine, or have to take part in a drug education programme if caught smoking on the street.
dessiato
🇪🇸 my spirit is crying for leaving
I lived in Foz which is very posh, and right alongside a very poor area inhabited by Romany, and drug dealers. Porto is a very mixed city with a lot of money for some and nothing for others.
Have you been to Matosinhos yet? The beach side is very nice. There's the Castello de Quiejo, some surfing, but it's not as nice as the beaches heading towards Vigo.
South of Gaia is another beautiful beach with a small church on a rock in the sea. It is believed to be used by Satanists.
Not adventuring much yet. Need to keep filling my boots for a decent break exploring everything. I've covered most of the city on morning trips, but from 3PM on I've just been working.
Can't find a farmacia here who is prepared to sell me a perfectly harmless, €2.75 salbutamol inhaler without a prescription. This is a problem. I can buy tobacco, drink my self stupid on cheap liver rot port for free, but can't buy life saving medicine unless I spend an entire day faffing around and paying stupid money whilst listening to lectures from 22 year old's about asthma management therapy. I've been using the stuff for 45 years with quite the opposite to ill effect. Is this what 'more European' means? I can even posses my choice of illegal drugs without fear of prosecution, but a simple fucking inhaler??? Looks like a bus ride to Spain where I may as well stock up on cheaper tobacco also
I have no interest in satanists. They're just Christians gone wrong, or even wronger.
Finish sketch tomorrow, then get the cheapest bus to Spain and back. Really can't be arsed with medical centers, or hospitals trying to talk me into taking even more prescribed expenses - I am very, very OK as I am.
Sorry for hijacking the thread
Slept out and woke up with a cat and Two dead rats. Nice. €35 saved for the cost of a tin of sardines reward.
OK. Walk into chemist holding empty Salbutamol inhaler. Smile nicely at the lady. Plead ignorance.
Result! €3.75 and I am sorted for a couple of months.
Should have a list of good bars, music venues and interesting non-tourist stuff to do here by the end of the day.
Slept out and woke up with a cat and Two dead rats. Nice. €35 saved for the cost of a tin of sardines reward.
OK. Walk into chemist holding empty Salbutamol inhaler. Smile nicely at the lady. Plead ignorance.
Result! €3.75 and I am sorted for a couple of months.
Should have a list of good bars, music venues and interesting non-tourist stuff to do here by the end of the day.
