I think this one needs a little more photo, but it is certainly a good effortIt's a bit of a shame, this thread seems to have turned into more of a post a photo rather than crit thread.
Perhaps it's because it's a sticky.
Used my membership at HCP today, and had a day out with the camera. I liked this one, so I edited it and uploaded it straight away. What do you think?
Thanks. I shot several at a few different apertures, but when I got them back on the computer I liked this one the best.I love the way you've got the band of red flowers in focus but everything else is out of focus.
It is, but I only noticed after I got back home. I really should be more careful.The fact the chimneys are just a tiny bit cut off is a bit annoying
It happens. At least with digital photography you can learn from it while remembering what you did the first time. One of my recent attempts was a gothic style carved door in what looked like a very old wall, which was being overgrown by a bramble hedge. So far so good. Except for the modern scaffolding at one end of the house which also got included, for want of 5 more minutes to try the same shot from other angles. D'oh!It is, but I only noticed after I got back home. I really should be more careful. <snip>
Thanks for the feedback. I'll take your suggestions into consideration next time.Bungle73 it's a nice picture, but next time you might want to play round with different angles and views. It's a little "straight on" without anything to really focus on because that whole section of foliage is similarly bright, tall, and shaped. sometimes if you move around you can get a different angle where one section, or flower, etc stands out and can become a nice focal point
this isn't the best example, because it isn't exactly what I think you were trying to do, but I hope it sort of shows what I mean
Thanks.f/2.8 @50mmNice use of depth-of-field. F2-2.8-ish?
Thanks.I'm not arty enough to give advice but it'd make a great postcard!
I'm really not much of a photographer at all, to be honest, but this one, which I took in Argentian Patagonia in 2007, didn't turn out too badly, I guess:
Your horizon's not level. It should be rotated a little bit counterclockwise in my opinion.I took this in Bath, UK in September. I'd just bought a new tripod, and was experimenting with it. I took several long-exposures one night when I was there, but when I got back home and uploaded them to the PC I didn't think much of them aesthetically However, I took another look recently, and decided that some were better than I previously though. I picked this one out and decide to edit and crop it.
Pulteney Bridge Bath by Graham West 2014, on Flickr
Thanks for the feedback. How can you tell the horizon is wonky? Even if I bring up the gird in LR I still can't tell. I did use the auto-leveling feature in LR when I edited it, but that is not always 100% accurate.Your horizon's not level. It should be rotated a little bit counterclockwise in my opinion.
Also, my preference for this kind of architectural shot (especially when there's a reflection) is to correct the perspectives so that the verticals are vertical and parallel. I don't think you always have to do it, but I would with this shot.
http://digital-photography-school.c...ive-distortion-and-correction-in-photography/
I can tell just from looking at it but I am quite sensitive to wonky horizons, perhaps even obsessive. But find something around the middle (side-to-side rather than top-to-bottom) of the image. Say the blueish streetlight mounted on the building wall. Then find its reflection in the water. Put a straight edge joining the light and its reflection and you'll see it's not vertical, as it would be if the horizon was horizontal.Thanks for the feedback. How can you tell the horizon is wonky? Even if I bring up the gird in LR I still can't tell. I did use the auto-leveling feature in LR when I edited it, but that is not always 100% accurate.
Thanks. I'll give that a go.I can tell just from looking at it but I am quite sensitive to wonky horizons, perhaps even obsessive. But find something around the middle (side-to-side rather than top-to-bottom) of the image. Say the blueish streetlight mounted on the building wall. Then find its reflection in the water. Put a straight edge joining the light and its reflection and you'll see it's not vertical, as it would be if the horizon was horizontal.
If you extend all the vertical lines on the buildings downwards, they will converge on a perspective point somewhere way below the image. In your image, this would be slightly off to the left rather than aligned with the middle.
I took this in Bath, UK in September. I'd just bought a new tripod, and was experimenting with it. I took several long-exposures one night when I was there, but when I got back home and uploaded them to the PC I didn't think much of them aesthetically However, I took another look recently, and decided that some were better than I previously though. I picked this one out and decide to edit and crop it.
Pulteney Bridge Bath by Graham West 2014, on Flickr
I always use 100 ISO for long exposures for best image quality. Aperture f/8 (again my go-to aperture for best quality). Shutter speed 25 seconds, but I brought the exposure up a tad in LR.What ISO, exposure time and aperture did you use?
I always use 100 ISO for long exposures for best image quality. Aperture f/8 (again my go-to aperture for best quality). Shutter speed 25 seconds, but I brought the exposure up a tad in LR.
Why 200? Is that the base ISO of your camera? I usually choose f/8 because that is around the sweet spot of the lens. I wasn't paying much attention to the exposure at the time tbh, because I wasn't trying to do anything "serious", just testing things out. I didn't even look at the histogram.I'll have to try that: I usually use ISO 200 for nice clear night images. Usually I'll use f6.3, but in a well-lit situation like this, I would expose for a shorter time.
Thanks.I love how the water turned out in your image, btw.
Just picked it out of the air. Since reading your post, I've been experimenting with even lower ISOs plus apertures of f8 and f11 at night; and I've been pleased with the results.Why 200? Is that the base ISO of your camera?
Generally you always want to use the lowest ISO possible to minimise noise. You only need to raise it when you need a faster shutter because you're hand-holding, and there isn't enough light.Just picked it out of the air. Since reading your post, I've been experimenting with even lower ISOs plus apertures of f8 and f11 at night; and I've been pleased with the results.