krtek a houby
Anger is Hi-NRG
Great thanks. I might pick your brains closer to the time.
Sure thing. I'm still learning and exploring but glad to give suggestions!
Japan - not the usual places!
- Thread starter mwgdrwg
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Sure thing. I'm still learning and exploring but glad to give suggestions!
mwgdrwg
Be a Pisces. Jam.
There's a great view in the government building, especially at night, and it's free. But I'd recomment the Mori Tower Sky Deck as the best daytime view, costs about a tenner but is well worth it.
Kyoto is the most prominent exception of a major city to avoid bombing in WWII (it was initially one of the targets for the atomic bombs). Relatively little of 'old Kyoto' exists (though far more than in nearly every Japanese city), which is largely due to slowly changing attitudes towards heritage in Japan (Japanese people prefer to live in new apartments as a rule, so 'old' stuff is pulled down). A good example of this can be seen in the re-fashioning of traditional machiya houses into restaurants, cafes and shops.
I agree that Kanazawa is nice, slightly off the beaten path, while still accessible by the shinkansen. One of the great gardens there, a pretty decent modern art museum, and a fantastic fish market. The samurai district is a bit meh, especially if you've been to Kyoto or even the somewhat dull Nara.
Just as a bit of background, I've recently returned from living between Kyoto and Osaka for five years, so I know both pretty well. Kyoto is now rather sadly overwhelmed by tourists all year 'round, though it is still (sort of) possible to avoid the crowds. One of those places like Barcelona or Venice where the locals are getting tired of it all. Osaka is a fine city, nothing remotely aesthetically pleasing about it, the people are notoriously gregarious (for Japan), and the food is the best in the country. Used to have a crazy nightlife, but now has the most right wing mayor who introduced a series of bizarre rules to squeeze the joy out of life (tables on dancefloors by 1am, for example). If you like noise, spacerock, drone, Osaka is the place (home of the Boredoms). Excellent record shops, some good bars (lots of microbreweries in Kansai, so some very good craft beer around). I was always rather fond of Kobe, though that was more to do with a former girlfriend than anything else.
My favourite places ended up being more countryside, which given my city head surprised me. There is a lot of truth in that much of Japan is desperately drab and samey, a boxy hinterland of browns and greys, and a restrictive social stratification that you either accept unquestioningly or rub up against. I did the latter
Without going any further into my eventual dissatisfaction, I can recommend if time permits heading out to the wonders of Tottori (forget the dunes, head for Misasa, Kurayoshi, Yurihama, Daisen, mountains, old towns, countryside, onsen); Kyushu (too many places to mention, but avoid Beppu if planning to go to onsen, it's horribly touristy); Hokkaido - in general - my enduring regret is that I only went twice, love Sapporo, probably my favourite Japanese city, great festivals in both summer and winter, very nearly moved there ...
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Cid
Proper break this time
Kyoto is the most prominent exception of a major city to avoid bombing in WWII (it was initially one of the targets for the atomic bombs). Relatively little of 'old Kyoto' exists (though far more than in nearly every Japanese city), which is largely due to slowly changing attitudes towards heritage in Japan (Japanese people prefer to live in new apartments as a rule, so 'old' stuff is pulled down). A good example of this can be seen in the re-fashioning of traditional machiya houses into restaurants, cafes and shops.
I agree that Kanazawa is nice, slightly off the beaten path, while still accessible by the shinkansen. One of the great gardens there, a pretty decent modern art museum, and a fantastic fish market. The samurai district is a bit meh, especially if you've been to Kyoto or even the somewhat dull Nara.
Just as a bit of background, I've recently returned from living between Kyoto and Osaka for five years, so I know both pretty well. Kyoto is now rather sadly overwhelmed by tourists all year 'round, though it is still (sort of) possible to avoid the crowds. One of those places like Barcelona or Venice where the locals are getting tired of it all. Osaka is a fine city, nothing remotely aesthetically pleasing about it, the people are notoriously gregarious (for Japan), and the food is the best in the country. Used to have a crazy nightlife, but now has the most right wing mayor who introduced a series of bizarre rules to squeeze the joy out of life (tables on dancefloors by 1am, for example). If you like noise, spacerock, drone, Osaka is the place (home of the Boredoms). Excellent record shops, some good bars (lots of microbreweries in Kansai, so some very good craft beer around). I was always rather fond of Kobe, though that was more to do with a former girlfriend than anything else.
My favourite places ended up being more countryside, which given my city head surprised me. There is a lot of truth in that much of Japan is desperately drab and samey, a boxy hinterland of browns and greys, and a restrictive social stratification that you either accept unquestioningly or rub up against. I did the latter
Without going any further into my eventual dissatisfaction, I can recommend if time permits heading out to the wonders of Tottori (forget the dunes, head for Misasa, Kurayoshi, Yurihama, Daisen, mountains, old towns, countryside, onsen); Kyushu (too many places to mention, but avoid Beppu if planning to go to onsen, it's horribly touristy); Hokkaido - in general - my enduring regret is that I only went twice, love Sapporo, probably my favourite Japanese city, great festivals in both summer and winter, very nearly moved there ...
For me the thing with Kyoto is there was just so much heritage that you could find less busy places... Even stuff that would be a major attraction elsewhere could be fairly quiet. But for me a large reason for going to Japan was design and architecture, so obviously it was always going to make me happy.
I also liked Kumamoto, my friend was living there at the time (2015), which was the only reason I went. But nice place... Good food. I think the key historic places there were badly affected by the 2016 earthquake and remain closed though (castle and that samurai residence).
This is certainly true up to a point, but if it's your first time visiting, there are certain 'classics' that are now extremely overcrowded such as Kinkaku-ji, Fushimi-Inari-Taisha, and Ginkaku-ji. Most of the Zen gardens are very un-Zen like, and places like Nishiki Market and most of Gion, where locals live, work and shop, are heaving. Living nearby as I did, the increases in tourists numbers were very visible in the last three years. It's certainly causing problems. That said, leaving Kyoto off your first trip to Japan would be silly, particularly given the huge differences between it and Tokyo. A great contrast which can be similarly achieved (though perhaps not so dramatically), by going to Osaka, which is only half an hour away by train.
I like Kumamoto, easy to incorporate with a trip to Fukuoka (one of my favourite cities in Japan, though perhaps not so amazing for the tourist, but a nice vibe for the foreign resident).
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FridgeMagnet
Administrator
I'm considering going to Hokkaido this summer (probably August) as, in a rare combination, I will have both time and money, and also it's supposed to be quite temperate in the summer - I don't like the heat. I don't think jbob is around here much these days but does anyone else have any experience? I'd be looking to spend a couple of weeks out there if I'm going to fly all that way.
krtek a houby
Anger is Hi-NRG
I believe it will still be warm weather in August but not the soul sapping heat that the rest of the country "enjoys".
ATOMIC SUPLEX
Member Since: 1985 Post Count: 3
It's going to be about as not as Hokkaido can be, but as mentioned above, not like the pain you suffer in Tokyo that time of year. For me it's almost impossible to leave the house.
I always avoid Japanese summer if I can help it. . . . Which I usually can't. I'm there next summer during the Olympics, so double shit times ahead.
No Hokkaido advice sorry.
I always avoid Japanese summer if I can help it. . . . Which I usually can't. I'm there next summer during the Olympics, so double shit times ahead.
No Hokkaido advice sorry.
August is the month to visit Hokkaido. I spent two summer holidays there to escape the heat of Kansai. Hokkaido in August reveals an environment more akin to northern Europe, with rolling fields in bloom and verdant mountains filled with interesting flora and fauna, and far fewer well equipped hikers than normal. It's also the least populated part of the country, which (Shikoku aside) makes for an almost unbelievable change after the densely populated cities roasting away in neck towel trauma.
It's definitely a good idea to spend the first few days at least in Sapporo as it's an unique Japanese city laid out on an American grid system, and has a very different vibe to the rest of Japan. The summer festival goes on for most of the month, with Odori Park converted into a giant beer garden for the major domestic breweries. Starts late afternoon and continues until around midnight as I recall. Not any cheaper than most bars (in fact more expensive), the beer is nothing special given how great the Japanese microbrewery scene is now, the food's crap, and the entertainment is cheesy, but it's a good place to meet people and indulge in some good natured heavy drinking with the outgoing locals. There's also a German themed beer festival at a smaller park (can't remember the name) that is like an outdoor version of the Japanese version of German cellar bars. Expect ludicrous bratwerst, monstrous pretzels, and overpriced pedestrian German pils. Oh and the oompah band. Don't forget that. I've tried and failed.
Around the same time (perhaps a bit before the start of the beer festival) the summer festival spreads out into the main thoroughfares of the city. Lots of food stalls (eat here, not at the beer festival), lots of traditional dancing, and lots of drinking (of course). Can be quite spectacular. There's some really wonderful bars dotted about the shopping arcades in Sapporo, and also some best avoided expat bars haunted by grizzled dyspeptic Americans telling you how long they've lived there and how they know everything about the Japanese and how many Japanese women they've fucked.
Outside of Sapporo, I really enjoyed the Daisatsuzen National Park (where I stayed a wonderful Swiss style chalet hotel with the best food and a great onsen overlooking a waterfall), the Shiretoko National Park, Furano (tourist hell, but hey - lavender ice cream), and the Shakotan Peninsula (really quite something, I think we stayed in Otaru). Can't recall the name of the other onsen places visited, but seem to think Hokkaido was pretty good despite August not being prime onsen season.
Food-wise, Kaisen-don (rice/raw fish bowl), ramen (there's a 'famous' alley in Sapporo, but check with locals beforehand as they all - correctly - think it's shit), Jingis Khan (BBQ Lamb! Lamb in Japan!), and some kind of weird soup curry that you have to seek out - worth it though.
Little while since I visited, so there's definitely some oversights ...
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mwgdrwg
Be a Pisces. Jam.
Looking at my own OP, I'm a year late going, but I'm off to Japan for a month is September! Got tickets to a few of the Wales games in the Rugby World Cup, and going to quite a few cities I've never been to (Nagoya, Hiroshima, Fukuoka, Kagoshima, Oita, Kagoshima and Kumamoto).
krtek a houby
Anger is Hi-NRG
Kagoshima's a great town, warm, trams, volcano and relaxed vibe.
mwgdrwg
Be a Pisces. Jam.
Yeah I'm there for 4 days, no particular plans except to eat food, look at the volcano, and go for a sand bath in that place down the coast
FridgeMagnet
Administrator
I feel like I have to see a Japanese oompah band at least once in my life. Perhaps not twice.
Is there enough to do for two weeks just in Hokkaido?
Cid
Proper break this time
Yeah I'm there for 4 days, no particular plans except to eat food, look at the volcano, and go for a sand bath in that place down the coast
Get black pork Shabu Shabu. Also Kyushu is the home of tonkotsu ramen, which is fucking amazing. Obviously if you're veggie ignore preceding advice.
I went to Kumamoto to see a friend a few years back (we also did a couple of days in Kagoshima), good place... Castle is probably still undergoing repairs. The former Hosokawa samurai residence is worth a visit, iirc that closed for a while too after the earthquake, not sure now. Horse sashimi is good.
Oh yeah, and Karashi Renkon! lotus root stuffed with mustard, battered and deep fried. Fucking amazing beer snack. Slice thinnish and munch.
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krtek a houby
Anger is Hi-NRG
Yeah I'm there for 4 days, no particular plans except to eat food, look at the volcano, and go for a sand bath in that place down the coast
This is quite nice (if I haven't mentioned it before)
Satsuma Peninsula Travel: Chiran Samurai District
And this is controversial but interesting
Chiran Peace Museum For Kamikaze Pilots | JapanVisitor Japan Travel Guide
Sure. I was there for a week before going further afield and didn't get bored.
teuchter
je suis teuchter
I was in Kagoshima last year.Yeah I'm there for 4 days, no particular plans except to eat food, look at the volcano, and go for a sand bath in that place down the coast
The volcano is great (I got quite into volcanoes while in Japan). Recommend taking a ferry over, hiring a bike and cycling right round the island.
If you like walking, there are some really nice mountain walks to be done in the national park a bit north from Kagoshima; you can get there by train/bus.
