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Basic DIY questions?

iona said:
Right. Sorry, I probably didn't phrase my initial post very well. What I was asking is can anyone recommend anywhere in particular to learn enough to understand what the last few posts are even talking about.
Click to expand...


I’d look for some basic physics videos on you tube and look for one(s) on voltage, current resistance. Then Ohms law.

Cant recommend anything, but found lots.

 
Has anyone got any experience and / or hints and tips on laying an engineered wood floor. It’s a bit like a laminate floor but made entirely of wood.

TIA
 
There are a few different ways of doing it and the best way depends on various things including what you're laying it onto. I think my tip would be not to rush into it, and take advice from the supplier of the flooring.
 
Wickes have a strip RubyToogood which can be used for the cork to floorboard. It tips to cover the different heights underneath. Carpet needs the teeth to stay in place and the only one I can find is at Carpetright, but they overprice their accessories and I suspect cheaper alternatives are out there. You don't want a carpet to laminate one as the laminate is usually higher than the carpet.
 
The b&q website / app is a bit confusing as most of the products are things you can only buy online and then have delivered by a third party.

Filter to see “1 hour click and collect” only and you should get what’s actually in the stores. Not sure if that helps with your query but it’s good general advice for their website
 
What’s the minimum gap I should have for this space?

IMG_9242.jpeg
Am thinking of getting a 2x2 ikea kallax unit and it would sit next to the existing unit up to where the upright cardboard boxes are. It would perhaps be bolted to the adjoining unit, so if so, not very moveable. I don’t really want it freestanding as it’s a topple risk.

The gap between the boxes and the stair is 65cm. That’s going to be a bit too narrow isn’t it? My doorframes are 72cm wide for reference
 
Elpenor said:
What’s the minimum gap I should have for this space?

View attachment 401746
Am thinking of getting a 2x2 ikea kallax unit and it would sit next to the existing unit up to where the upright cardboard boxes are. It would perhaps be bolted to the adjoining unit, so if so, not very moveable. I don’t really want it freestanding as it’s a topple risk.

The gap between the boxes and the stair is 65cm. That’s going to be a bit too narrow isn’t it? My doorframes are 72cm wide for reference
Click to expand...
How wide is it to the post on the stairs?
As that is where the tightest point will be.
 
WouldBe said:
How wide is it to the post on the stairs?
As that is where the tightest point will be.
Click to expand...
That would be approx 70cm to the post on the stairs, the unit would be approx 75cm high so some bulky things could be lifted over. Maybe it’s possible.

Looks like the gap would be touch and go for white goods but then how often do they get changed?
 
WouldBe said:
Do you have easy access to your back door?
Click to expand...
Yes, via steps down from an alleyway.

Doesn’t seem too bad having tried moving the existing unit in from the wall. Not sure why I didn't try that first. :facepalm:

I’ll see how often I bump into it during the next week or so. I wouldn’t sell the house with it like this as it does shrink the room a bit, but for living in it’s probably fine. IMG_9243.jpeg
 
Elpenor said:
What’s the minimum gap I should have for this space?

View attachment 401746
Am thinking of getting a 2x2 ikea kallax unit and it would sit next to the existing unit up to where the upright cardboard boxes are. It would perhaps be bolted to the adjoining unit, so if so, not very moveable. I don’t really want it freestanding as it’s a topple risk.

The gap between the boxes and the stair is 65cm. That’s going to be a bit too narrow isn’t it? My doorframes are 72cm wide for reference
Click to expand...
I think it will start annoying you in the future having to manoeuvre round it
 
Top tip - if a radiator isn’t working after a year off, then lightly thwop the inlet / outward valves a couple of times with a smol hammer or the handle end of a big screwdriver, them work the valves up and down a few times. The valves will lock up and need a bit of a hand to get going again. You might need to bleed it again after it is flowing free again
 
Elpenor said:
What’s the minimum gap I should have for this space?


Am thinking of getting a 2x2 ikea kallax unit and it would sit next to the existing unit up to where the upright cardboard boxes are. It would perhaps be bolted to the adjoining unit, so if so, not very moveable. I don’t really want it freestanding as it’s a topple risk.

The gap between the boxes and the stair is 65cm. That’s going to be a bit too narrow isn’t it? My doorframes are 72cm wide for reference
Click to expand...
I realise the horse has bolted now, but that's definitely too tight, especially considering it's at the foot of the stairs. You're going to come down the stairs to turn right, with one hand on the newel post and clang your left shin on corner of the table. Ideally, you want to leave a radius clear from the stair corner equal to the width of the stairs. Your body will come down the stairs being aware of how wide they are and will be preconditioned to carry on moving as if that width continues.

1702384909838.png
 
Crispy said:
I realise the horse has bolted now, but that's definitely too tight, especially considering it's at the foot of the stairs. You're going to come down the stairs to turn right, with one hand on the newel post and clang your left shin on corner of the table. Ideally, you want to leave a radius clear from the stair corner equal to the width of the stairs. Your body will come down the stairs being aware of how wide they are and will be preconditioned to carry on moving as if that width continues.

View attachment 404095
Click to expand...

Such a fine history of graphs, and now this. :(
 
If a plasterer were to skim an artex kitchen ceiling would they typically require the kitchen cabinets off the wall?
 
Crispy said:
I realise the horse has bolted now, but that's definitely too tight, especially considering it's at the foot of the stairs. You're going to come down the stairs to turn right, with one hand on the newel post and clang your left shin on corner of the table. Ideally, you want to leave a radius clear from the stair corner equal to the width of the stairs. Your body will come down the stairs being aware of how wide they are and will be preconditioned to carry on moving as if that width continues.

View attachment 404095
Click to expand...
One clang of the left shin will provide a very effective reconditioning of expectations and then it'll be ok from then on.
 
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