AverageJoe
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Le Cinq, Paris: restaurant review
It was supposed to be a joyous trip to one of France’s famous gastro palaces – what could possibly go wrong?
"The dining room, deep in the hotel, is a broad space of high ceilings and coving, with thick carpets to muffle the screams. It is decorated in various shades of taupe, biscuit and fuck you. There’s a little gilt here and there, to remind us that this is a room designed for people for whom guilt is unfamiliar. It shouts money much as football fans shout at the ref. There’s a stool for the lady’s handbag. Well, of course there is."
