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The Estonian Philosopher.

Italy.

A fairly manic couple of days, and I ate a prepacked pasta and crab salad thing that didn't go down too well. I'm a bit exhausted. I'm in a small village like plaza in San Remo. Arrived here via Montecarlo and a couple of other towns enroute. I'm enjoying a peaceful Sunday afternoon in the shade of a very old church. You get an open ticket along the coast which allows you to hop from town to town. Only €8.

I went to the train station in Nice (this story will possibly explain better than most why I think the place is so mental and strictly adults only). Tired, dehydrated, I just wanted to find a seat and relax for an hour watching the sea go by. Suddenly I hear very loud firecrackers. Thinking nothing about it I continue through the platform underpass towards the steps when a terrified stampede of tourist comes charging towards me.

Genuinely in fear of their lives - One mother is in tears screaming at her children to run faster. Two platforms of people all charging towards me in panic. WTF? Then I start thinking perhaps they're not firecrackers (they were very loud), so I turn around and join the manic flow back down the underpass. Now the station is filling up with thick clouds of phospherous smoke. Too much to inhale in a confined space. Terrified crowds, people screaming, children in tears - a very cold 30 seconds on a muggy 40ºC day.


This is Nice! What happend was some TGV driver thought it would be a good idea to drive his family wedding into Nice station in his 1000 Tonne train with hundreds of loud, smokey firecrackers blazing whilst he crazily sounded his horns at a time when the station was full of tourists in a foreign culture, hyped up on security airport control etc. Very understandable why the paranoia and rational panic spread so quickly. Luckily no-one was hurt, but I'll bet a few will be having nightmares. People really thought it was a terrorist attack, and it bloddy well looked and sounded like one. That's mental Nice. Not for the feint hearted.


Onwards to San Remo. It's like a little Montecarlo, but much nicer. Nicer, but not rally that nice.

Sketching Plaza San Siro I here a shout of "Hey Dutch, come and see my mosque". OK, but, I'm not Dutch, why on earth did you think... never mind.

Artist Randi has been given the community hall at the convent for 2 weeks. He has turned it into 'his mosque'. It is fantastic, so is he. I love these people - they make me feel almost sane. Almost! Pics come later. Think low-tech crazy rather than ostentatious religion :D Very nice, crazy carácter. Very clever also, but don’t go looking for any meaningful stuff in his art - you’ ll just turn you crazy.

I am now about to head in a backwards direction???
 
Stan, you're about 3 days behind me, done exactly the same route, will be in Slovakia for the next 6 weeks if you fancy a bed and unlimited firewater.
 
The Police round the Med are pure fascist gay porn, would not fuck with them.

They have to be. I've pushed my luck a bit too much a couple of times, but they won't get violent unless you do TBF.

Apart from liking Nice for it's crazy, unpretentious ways I don't really like this corner of France and Italy. I don't believe it was ever glam. It was all a myth that exploded when package tours allowed us common folk to see the truth :)

Back to Nice to refund. Expensive weekend. At least my stomach seems to be settling. I'll be deciding my route when I know what funds I have. ATM I have about €1.50 and no cigarettes :)
 
Stan, you're about 3 days behind me, done exactly the same route, will be in Slovakia for the next 6 weeks if you fancy a bed and unlimited firewater.

Very kind offer. Thank you, the sentiment is appreciated. I am on a mission to save enough cash to give my feet a break. How long are you there for?
 
Welcome to Rudi's Mosque.

This is possibly the funniest thing I have come across on all my walks. From what I can gather...

The local community decided to let Rudi exhibit his paintings in the convent hall for 2 weeks. Big space went to Rudi's head :D He has filled/is filling and decorating 'his mosque' with anything he finds/borrows/steals from the streets/gardens/building sites. I witnessed a few slightly irrate rightful owners having to pay a small ransom for 'Rudi's art' :D Pure class.

When I left San Remo I saw him walking back to base with a large set of step ladders. Ideal for decorating the ceiling of his mosque :)
 

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Got all my photos mixed up there, but you get the idea.

I am hitting physical problems :( I can't just not hike, I can barely walk. I don't want to do this by train and bus from city to city. The fun for me is walking through the countryside and meeting people away from the tourist zones. My feet are a fucked up mess of toen ligaments, sunburn and blisters. My new plan is to stay put here in Nice until I have enough cash to take a break and a train to Berlin.
 
Free postcard sketches!

Okey dokey :) Someone has given me a sheet of French stamps. Seems I can't spend them on beer, so the first Five people to PM me a postal address will receive a free postcard sketch from Nice.

The more time I spend here, the more I love it. It is a beautiful, dirty city with a huge beach and splendid trams. I could live here very happily.

FREE postcard sketches up for grabs (but, a small donation to the U75 server fund will get you a nicer sketch ;)).
 
Look after those feet Stanley. You probably think your hand and eye are your main assets but not if you can't do the walking. I once had a knee injury that took months to get better and it was so frustrating not to be able to walk normally but hobble slowly along, as previously I used to walk everywhere in my daily life. Physio was the answer though. Mine was absolutely brilliant and I sang her praises to my GP who said that they know more about anatomy than his anatomy professor at college. Good luck, and leave the poor police alone. ;)
 
This morning I was rudely awaken by water canon.

After a lovelly evening with someone called Ivana, I slept on the beach. At about 5.30AM I got drenched by a fire boat thing spraying the beach. I dunno, perhaps they were making the pebbles look shiney??? But, it had the added benefit of clearing the beach of all riff-raff ready for the early morning bathers. I stink like a fucking pet shop. Why do pet shops smell like that? Why do I smell like a pet shop now?

I'm on a mission to save for a ticket to Strasbourg. Pretty sure I can make money there also.

Chazegee - I'm coming to help destroy your liver!
 
The streets of Nice are getting a bit ugly. As more and more tourists arrive, so do more and more petty criminals, thieves and cunts. I wouldn't trust a single street person in this city - they all have habits to feed with no income. I'm regularly having cash stolen, but last night Two pretty large Hungarian (I think) guys came upto me, put their hands around my neck gestering they would strangle me if I didn't pay €10 every day for my pitch. I tell them to fuck off - they rip up my sketches. These cunts are picking on all other street people. A cowardly extortion racket taking advantage of the most vulnerable. Total fucking cowardly cunts. If they try it on again this evening I will fucking well lay into them.

One commission to complete this evening, then I think it's best I move on. The beach is to crazy to sleep on alone. I've managed to save about €250. Checking times for night trains to Strasbourg. Pretty sure I will pick up good work there.
 
Changed my mind :)

Trains booked to Strasbourg. Ouch! €220!!! Doing a day in Marseille, couple of days in Lyon, then onto Strasbourg. There are no cheap train tickets now. Tourist season hitting peak - many trains are fully booked. Life is getting even more expensive. I really feel as though I'm swimming a little too far away from shore now. So, long as I reach Berlin for the first weekend in August I should be fine, but sooner, or later I'm going to hit a town skint and not be able to work for whatever reason. Then I'll be well and truly stuffed :)

I'm making a shopping list to take to Chazegee internet person:

Onions
Carrots
Tomatoes
Basil
Oregano
Garlic
Lemon
Apples
Cucumber
Red Pepper
Chillies
Pasta
Olive oil
Cayenne pepper
Minced beef
Lettuce
Good wine...

... lots more to add.

He better fucking well believe I'm coming. People should know better than invite me if they think I won't turn up :D
 
I have taken a rather expensive (by my standards) hotel for the night. I'm fucked and I need to deal with emails and general admin sort of stuff. Siren Nº1 is on it's way to Brooklyn in return for a very generous donation to a good cause in Nice. I had been carrying it around too long - it was getting rather scruffy.

3 Months in. The money: Thankfully a donation has finally been made. I have been surviving relatively comfortably, but beds are expensive. €66 tonight which coincidently happens to be my average income per day for the last 90 days. Not so easy come - easy go. This is a problem. I was comfortable in Nice sleeping on the beach with free showers. I'm now in Lyon which delivered an easy €120 for 5 hours today. 3 sketches sold at €40 each. Bed = €66, food €12 (shit takeaway crap), beer €8, cigarettes €12.60, pens and materials €4. Doesn't leave much to save and I want a good breakfast.

France is giving more, but taking far more back than Spain. I haven't really been invited into local social circles and free beds since Arles. Met good people, but no local contacts. Holiday towns during holiday season. The locals are either away on holiday themselves, working every hour to make their own money, or they just don't trust the fly by nights.

Marseille looked very interesting. I didn't stay. Lyon is a bit up it's own and reaching far above it's station IMO. I can make money here mind. Might stay sleeping by the river. Might head straight onto Strasbourg.

Very simply...

That was €6,000 in and €6,000 out in 90 days. It is in no way a cheap existence! About average really. I can up the stakes. So, I will :)
 
I'm in the 'cheap' part of Lyon considering a hotel. Long day today for about €160.

Why I don't like Lyon.

People don't understand me. It's a beautiful city. There are nice bars, restaurants etc. What I don't like is the way it sells itself on it's past so much. Like it has fuck all to offer today. The palaces are too big for a city like this. Maybe, once upon a time when James 2nd's cousin was governor this was a very important city. Two rivers converging in a very fertile environment. Gateway to the Med'...

But, Nice had history like that to explore also. What Nice has today is a fresh attitude. "We have big beach. We have beautiful city. We have good weather. We have a Ryanair airport" - just come and fucking enjoy yourselves. If you're not hurting anyone else, all is fine.

Whereas... Lyon is more "We have history and pretty buildings - come and be apart of our museum cos we have fuck all to offer today".

Very vibrant nightlife down by the river. Mostly students. That's the other thing I could moan about. The American students I meet in Granada are all (without exception) good, considerate, educated people. Here the US students are just on full-on holiday, fuck everyone mode. It's not pleasant. It's the city and the environment that does that. Nothing else.

Find cheap hotel? Stay out? Party?

Think I'm up for a solo night watching people and river ripples.
 
Enough of Lyon. Over commercialised fucking drain of a place. Wish I could find something nice to say other than I met good people. It has a pretty bit and Two rivers. That'll do.

5 hour train ride to Strasbourg. I have a nice bottle of wine and cash in pocket for hotel on arrival :)
 
Strasbourg is looking good for an itinerant artist :) The most perfect city I have come across yet for my own purposes. I've seen at least 6 perfect pitches. The police seem cool. Very relaxed vibe about the place. Weather is looking OK. Reasonably priced beds at a large backpackers hostal. Beautiful, interesting, varied architecture. If nothing unexpected goes wrong I am going to be very happy here for a few days.
 
Fuck shit. Rain :( My first rain in living memory - I shouldn't complain, but... fuck shit :( Just stocked up on new papers and pens and brushes and stuff. Then, fucking rain. Fuck shit.

A strange 24 hours. Yesterday as I was walking to the train station in Lyon I suddenly needed to use some services. Buttocks clenched as tight as possible I saw a McDonalds and thought 'fuck it - Coke and fries and I can use WiFi'. Into McDonalds. But my Coke and fries. Collect my receipt with 'crapping code' for the toilets. Find seat. Go upstairs to find the bogs. "Hello cleaning lady. Where are the toilets?".

She: "Sorry, they're for customers only".
Me: "Yes, I am a customer".
She: "Are you eating here?".
Me: "Yes".
She: "Where-s your receipt?".
Me: "Here".
She: "OK = you can use the toilets".

I can be very petty when someone annoys me. After crapping and washing I go back down stairs, collect my fries and Coke on the tray and walk upstairs to the newly cleaned seating area :)

"Hello cleaning lady".
"You can-t sit here".
"Why not, it-s nice and clean and quiet".
"Its closed".

Oh... what a clumsy clot I can be at times. An audacious trip sends fries across the clean place and Coke into the air. In my confused state I try to catch the Coke on my tray only to return a full on forehand smash instead. Not a single clean surface left in the entire room. I am actually proud.

To the station...

Platform F = check.
14.37 train to Strasbourg = Ah, look it is only 14.20 and it is already here. Cool.
Embarcation point U = check.
Carriage 8 = check.
Seat 83 = check.

Sorted. Put sketches on the luggage rack and go and have a coffee and cigarette.

Come back to train...carriage 8...seat 83... erm... where are my sketches?

"Hello Mr train man. I left my sketches here about 20 minutes ago and they seem to have gone".

He: "20 minutes ago? = that was a different train".

Oh.

So, my paintings and sketches are apparently now being recycled in St Ettienne. Never mind. The important stuff had been posted.


The World is going mad I think. People are getting all angry about tabloids being cunts instead of recognising what consequences this is all going to have. Perhaps it is just me.
 
Fucking rain :( I had forgotten how depressing it is. No work. No money. No bed. I want to head back south. It's much nicer down there.
 
This is going to be a hard night. Sometimes it is very, very tough.

The rain has stopped thankfully. I have about €4. No cigarettes. No beer, and my ravioli bolognese supper just backfired spectacularly for some reason. Exhausted. Throwing up. No bed. Strange city somewhere on the border of France and Germany where I know no-one. It's times like this I'm glad I didn't talk anyone into coming with me. Secret police have driven past 3 times already. I'm in a shop porch. That's 'secret police' French style. 10 year old Ford Mondeo police with 'we're not accountable' idiots inside.

It's just 'hang on in there and hope for good weather tomorrow' time.

Midnight is not so bad. There are people around. It's the 3AM - 4AM bit when you feel as vulnerable and as lonely as it's possible to feel. Anyone who thinks this is just a holiday should try this. Alone, very alone in a strange, foreign place. Ill, tired, skint AND NO FUCKING TOBACCO :( Grim as fuck.

And, yet... no doubt this time tomorrow I will have lots of tobacco, lots of cash, a safe bed and many new friends. There is a price to pay, and there is a very big reward. If you're not prepared to embrace your own vulnerabilities you will never experience the highest highs life has to offer.

This is sort of down, low, but comfortable. I think

WTF am I doing???
 
So you're not posting frominternet cafe's anymore?

No.

I was woken by Police Municiple at 7AM. No plans to do that again on this trip. Although, it seems all the affordable beds are booked. Having to pay through the nose for a bed is really beginning to annoy me. Might gice Couchsurfing another go.

Sunny today. Excellent afternoon and I still have a Friday evening to work. This is a very beautiful city. Possibly the best I've visited from an artist point of view. I want to paint the cathedral. It's an extremely intricate, very decorative doily of stone work. Currently, every evening at 10.30 they put on a light show mimicing lightening and rain and water ripples :)

Better mood today. I'm on a mission for a pair of €150 boots I've seen. They're good. they will protect my feet and last for years. I'm having me a pair before I leave.

Tired as fuck. Forecast doesn't look to hot. Back to work 'making hay whilst the sun shines'.
 
:cool:

Sorted. Bed paid for for 3 nights with WiFi and my own bathroom. €150 in my back pocket for new boots. About €100 in my front pocket :) I'm gonna get wasted and watch the cathedral light show :)

This is actually a fab little city. Some really nice little cinemas showing alternative stuff with cool little bars. It has a very gentle vibe. You could easily miss the night stuff if you didn't know about it. Beautiful buildings and spaces everywhere. A friend who happens to be French emailed me asking me to 'say hello to the gentle Father land'. I think I understand what that means now.

Getting good social contacts here already also. And, talking to a Brazilian guy who's interested in my photography. It's all looking good again :)
 
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