The Cycling Chat Thread
- Thread starter ChrisFilter
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ChrisFilter
Like a boss.
I'm going to get a Whyte Suffolk on the cycle to work scheme for commuting, rainy days and winter. Looking forward to brakes that actually work in the wet!
Pgd
Well-Known Member
I've posted this on CycleChat but I'd also appreciate an Urban opinion 
I took my cassette off to change it, but noticed that I could see right into the bearing to an extent I don't remember from before (though not done it too often to be fair). Opinion on CC seems to be that I'm missing a seal/dust cover -- does that sound right? I got it serviced best part of a year ago, could they have forgotten to put it on? How screwed is the bearing likely to be -- should I invest in some cone spanners and re-grease, or is it more serious than that? Cheers!
I took my cassette off to change it, but noticed that I could see right into the bearing to an extent I don't remember from before (though not done it too often to be fair). Opinion on CC seems to be that I'm missing a seal/dust cover -- does that sound right? I got it serviced best part of a year ago, could they have forgotten to put it on? How screwed is the bearing likely to be -- should I invest in some cone spanners and re-grease, or is it more serious than that? Cheers!
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han
love is the answer
That looks like a fantastic and versatile bike. Disc brakes, yum!
ChrisFilter
Like a boss.
Yeah - it's that or the 2016 Cannondale CAADX. It's tempting to do a bit of cyclocross this winter so leaning towards the latter. Not sure how much of a pain cx gearing will be on roads though.
weepiper
I fix the machines that fight climate change
yes, there should be a metal cover thingie like in this picture over the bearings. It's not terminal tbh, the cassette lockring will keep most of the crap out. I'd take it to bits and clean it up and pack it with new bearings (a couple of quid) and clean grease though.I've posted this on CycleChat but I'd also appreciate an Urban opinion
I took my cassette off to change it, but noticed that I could see right into the bearing to an extent I don't remember from before (though not done it too often to be fair). Opinion on CC seems to be that I'm missing a seal/dust cover -- does that sound right? I got it serviced best part of a year ago, could they have forgotten to put it on? How screwed is the bearing likely to be -- should I invest in some cone spanners and re-grease, or is it more serious than that? Cheers!
weepiper
I fix the machines that fight climate change
What kind of shifter? A pic would help.
weepiper
I fix the machines that fight climate change
Ta. So when you press the shifter, does it feel really stiff and like it's resisting your thumb, or does it push into the extended position easily but just no 'click'?Looks like this
Blagsta
Minimum cage, maximum cage
It pushes easily but doesn't click round to the next position.
weepiper
I fix the machines that fight climate change
Could be that the ratchet grease inside has hardened and the little pawls aren't releasing properly. Take the top cover off - there's a little phillips screw or possibly two holding it on, when you undo those the silver plastic cover will just pop off. Then get some spray lube (WD40 or GT85 is fine) and spray it to fuck in there. You're trying to flush the gunk out so don't be afraid to use loads. Then wipe off the excess and try to shift a few times, hopefully it will free itself up.
Artaxerxes
Look out, he's got a gnu!
Disc brakes are fucking *amazing*
ChrisFilter
Like a boss.
So I hear! I've also heard that they're no better than calipers until you get to a certain level, so for that reason I'll go for the Whyte rather the Cannondale.
The next question is whether it's worth forking out another £200 for 105 11 speed vs Sora? I think so.
The next question is whether it's worth forking out another £200 for 105 11 speed vs Sora? I think so.
SpookyFrank
A cheap source of teeth for aquarium gravel
OK so I replaced my chain (like for like, ordinary 9 speed chain) and now the chain slips constantly on the two smallest gears on my cassette. It's not the indexing, and the cassette worked fine with my old chain; what could be the matter?
Dogsauce
I’ve got Skol but I’m not a Scholar
The chain will need to stretch to match the wear on the sprockets. It's generally recommended to change chains and cogs at the same time, although that can be expensive! I've found that I can manage with worn front rings as a new chain won't really jump on those, but usually have to swap the back block over. I've winged it a bit on the Raleigh record with a new chain because the old solid steel 6-speed block had very little wear, but it's taken about 700km to stretch enough for me to ride in the highest gear without it jumping all over the shop.
I don't know if nine-speeds are more sensitive.
I don't know if nine-speeds are more sensitive.
weepiper
I fix the machines that fight climate change
You need a new cassette too. The old chain was worn. The chain and cassette wear at the same rate so the new chain is bot sitting properly on the worn cassette.
SpookyFrank
A cheap source of teeth for aquarium gravel
I was afraid of that, cheers though.
a_chap
When the world came apart, where were you?
Sake. Was going to go out for a wee ride instead but it's currently gusting to 52mph
I was in the same wind on a 600km ride on Saturday and Sunday. The Pashley, being very upright, made it a bit of a challenge TBH.
The route went over the Humber Bridge - frankly f'kin scary when it's that windy
ChrisFilter
Like a boss.
This is probably a very stupid question, but new bike is a disc-framed road bike. Obviously normal wheels won't work for being on the road, but would they suffice for the turbo trainer? I.E. will they fit?
