Saving a loose tree!

[Johnny Vodka]

My Bramley apple tree is loose in the ground, a combination of wind and water-logged soil (soil only became like this in the last couple of years, probably due to neighbours cutting down a tree). I currently have it wedged upright with two wooden blocks, but it'll still tip over in strong winds. The tree is actually in good nick otherwise - lots of big apples this year. It's probably too big now to be staked. Has anyone managed to save a tree in a similar situation? I have some leftover sand in my hut - I'm wondering whether tipping that down the hole would help pack it in and stop it from wriggling. Can take pics later if required.

 

[farmerbarleymow]

Poor tree

If it's falling over in windy weather that doesn't sound promising - not sure how much strain the roots could take without breaking and killing the tree.

 

[wayward bob]

is it close to any buildings? what damage would it cause if it fell?

 

[weltweit]

I am wondering if you should cut it back to a size that the roots can support. A caviat being that I know nothing about trees.

 

[gentlegreen]

Is it grafted ?

 

[weltweit]

Could possibly take some rootstock and replant for some new trees.

 

[RubyToogood]

I had this a couple of years ago. It was partly that the tree had too much fruit on it. I would start by picking it all - it's probably ripe now and if it isn't they're Bramleys, you're cooking them anyway.

Mine has survived. I got some tree surgeons round. They were total cowboys who killed my cherry tree in the process of pruning it, but they used some large forked branches from the cherry to prop up the apple. I think they also took a fair bit of top growth off the apple to make it less top heavy.

Fruit trees are often grafted onto dwarfing rootstocks and may need staking as the top is more vigourous than the roots (stupid tree surgeons didn't even know this!!!).

 

[Johnny Vodka]

is it close to any buildings? what damage would it cause if it fell?

Not much really. Probably just lean on my heavy bird bath.

 

[Johnny Vodka]

I had this a couple of years ago. It was partly that the tree had too much fruit on it. I would start by picking it all - it's probably ripe now and if it isn't they're Bramleys, you're cooking them anyway.

I think summer winds catch the leaves. Don't remember propping it up so much in summer. It's not a huge tree, but too big to stake.

 

[RubyToogood]

I think summer winds catch the leaves. Don't remember propping it up so much in summer. It's not a huge tree, but too big to stake.

Well go for props then.

 

[wayward bob]

if mine's anything to go by they totally catch the prevailing wind, like a giant combover. doesn't seem to bother the tree but prolly makes the neighbours nervous

 

[Johnny Vodka]

This is the tree. It's being supported by the wooden blocks (at least until it moves in the wind), not the stake.

 

[bellaozzydog]

I’ve just secured my slightly horizontal apple tree

I used a sheet of silicon wrapped around the trunk (to protect from rub) and three way tied it to the fence behind it (like the one in your phot) with hairy string

it will fall down if the fence falls down Apart from that seems fairly secure

 

[wayward bob]

looks eminently stakeable?

 

[Johnny Vodka]

looks eminently stakeable?

It's heavier than it looks, plus the soil is water- logged, so the stake might move too. Would my original idea of pouring sand down the hole help at all?

 

[gentlegreen]

Fruit trees are often grafted onto dwarfing rootstocks and may need staking as the top is more vigourous than the roots (stupid tree surgeons didn't even know this!!!).

I'm often amazed when I see how much fruit is being carried and so soon by young trees on dwarfing rootstocks - this particular one looks like a prime candidate for meticulous pruning.

 

[Johnny Vodka]

I’ve just secured my slightly horizontal apple tree

I used a sheet of silicon wrapped around the trunk (to protect from rub) and three way tied it to the fence behind it (like the one in your phot) with hairy string

it will fall down if the fence falls down Apart from that seems fairly secure

My mum suggested tying the tree to the fence, but I was thinking that might just end in the fence coming down.

 

[gentlegreen]

There's probably a conflict here between aesthetics and fruit production.
Personally if I was growing fruit, I might well set up training wires right from the start ...

 

[Johnny Vodka]

I'm often amazed when I see how much fruit is being carried and so soon by young trees on dwarfing rootstocks - this particular one looks like a prime candidate for meticulous pruning.

It's older than it looks. Probably had it a decade or so. The eating apple tree I put in around the same time is much bigger.

 

[gentlegreen]

Unless there's rock below, the answer is properly bigger and better staking - and pruning.

 

[quiet guy]

Pick the fruit, prune it back, then hammer some stakes in at your fence to match the position of the existing posts and then securely support the tree by tieing it to your posts, not forgetting some protection for the bark against the rubbing of your support ties.

 

[gentlegreen]

Pick the fruit, prune it back, then hammer some stakes in at your fence to match the position of the existing posts and then securely support the tree by tieing it to your posts, not forgetting some protection for the bark against the rubbing of your support ties.

inner tubes FTW
But I would put in a separate post at least as strong as the existing fence posts and tye it to that.

 

[StoneRoad]

Pick the largest, heaviest fruit first and those furthest from the trunk. (Unless you have room to freeze most of it).

Re-stake. With two or three decent posts hammered well in about a foot away from the trunk in a triangle with the trunk in the centre.
Tie to stakes with webbing or wide straps (and protect the bark as you do it) below the main branches.

Tip or wash fine compost / sand mix into the gap around the trunk / roots - do it several times, a bit at a time, you don't want an "air space" forming. Tamp the last doses of the mixture down gently, but firmly.

Clear the area around the base of the trunk. Once you've done the gap filling exercise, give it another few days to make sure no more is needed, then I would add some upside down turf, then something like a couple of small paving slabs, as a counterbalance to those long branches.

When the tree is dormant - prune it according to the shape you want. Take off the really excessively long ones first. But don't do it all the way back in one season, otherwise you'll probably not get fruit next year.

 

[Cid]

Yeah, just gonna echo the others saying you'd make a shit vampire hunter.