A depressing footnote to this thread, just 4 or 5 years later:
The journey I did from Pogradec to Tirana is no longer possible. Apparently services ceased on that line a couple of years after I did it, and it looks like the track may be dismantled completely. I guess it'll go the way of so many other rail routes - at some point in the future people will recognise that it would be rather useful to still have it, and that what it needed was some investment so that it could actually compete with other modes. But by then critical parts of the trackbed will probably have been built over, and maybe the other bits of the albanian network will have died in succession. The money will all have been spent on motorways full of freight that could have gone by rail and anyone without a car will have to make do with buses. Hello Mr Beeching.
Also, Tirana station has now been closed. Apparently a new one is being built further out of town. So, another move to make the railways even less attractive. I expect the old, centrally located one will be replaced with something like a shopping centre with giant car park, and again, in the future people will wonder why a prime location was given up.
This kind of stuff happened 50 or 60 years ago in Britain, and now we regret it. So frustrating to see these mistakes being made over and over again.
I suppose I'm glad I did that journey when it was still an option. But it makes me really sad looking back at the pictures, knowing that it's a journey no-one will make again, now.