Urban75 Home About Offline BrixtonBuzz Contact

Fountain pen - recommendations

A semi-flex won't make much difference to anything really. I have a nice Pelikan M200 EF nib with a little flex - it just adds a little extra character to my journalling.

The more flex a nib has the more it will potentially be prone to scratch and getting fibres in it, yes, though that depends on the nib quality and paper. (The Pelikan I mentioned, for instance, is noticeably less scratchy than many EFs with no flex at all, because it's a good nib.)

Basically flex is another variable in handwriting. If you like to explore handwriting then it is interesting to add "pressure" to all of the other factors you can control like angle, speed and movement of your hand (let alone ink). It isn't what you want if you just want to write quickly. For a note taking pocket pen I use a Safari or a P51 with a rounded nail for a nib and my quickest drying, least smearing ink.
 
I'm interested in exploring handwriting.

I'm not sure that exploration is worth the risk with what is very likely to be the only £600 hand crafted pen I ever own :D

I'd be gutted if I ended up never using it OR going through a 4-week / $40 replacement programme when it won't arrive before June anyhows!

Starting with, e.g., a £20 Noodlers Ahab might be a more sensible entry point, ay?
 
Semi-flex nibs

Most Pelikan nibs, on the 400 models and up, tend toward semi-flexibility. When pressed, these "soft" nibs give slightly, imparting a gentle, cushion-like "bounce" to the feel of the writing. This doesn’t give significant line variation, but it can set up an engaging writing rhythm; it’s almost as if they give your fingers a boost toward the next letter. Semi-flexes also can be found in many of the Italian brands, such as OMAS, Stipula, Delta, and Ancora. Nakaya's flexible nib is on the soft side of soft for me; it comes closer to old-style flex, but isn't quite. Generally, you’ll not find these among the under $100 pens (although there can be exceptions, usually where you least expect them). Waterman #2 nibs from 1915 through 1925, with the New York imprint, and Sheaffer’s ca. 1920 self-fillers are vintage examples.

"on the soft side :hmm:"
 
I'm interested in exploring handwriting.

I'm not sure that exploration is worth the risk with what is very likely to be the only £600 hand crafted pen I ever own :D

I'd be gutted if I ended up never using it OR going through a 4-week / $40 replacement programme when it won't arrive before June anyhows!

Starting with, e.g., a £20 Noodlers Ahab might be a more sensible entry point, ay?

Isn't replacing a Nakaya nib rather more than $40? :hmm: http://nibs.com/NakayaNibsPage.htm

Or do they exchange it?

The Noodler's... I do sometimes wonder if taste is perhaps a little lacking in the minds of some pen designers.
 
Wouldn't the flex make it more toothy / less smooth?

Tbh that's why I'd been tempted. But FM's post, and others I've seen about the complicatedness of flex nibs, got me wondering if I shouldn't take fewer chances with this particular nib :hmm:

Yes, a really flexy nib can be a little more scratchy. But most modern nibs which are described as flex don't come anything close to the flex of vintage ones, so I suspect that it'll be more of a semi-flex. Plus, given that you're used to an EF nib, and as long as you use reasonably smooth paper, and don't try to write at light speed, I'm sure you'll be fine. After all, I reckon the nib will be of the very highest quality.

FM is right that it wouldn't be what you want to bang out quick notes with, but, to my mind, a pen such as the one you're buying ought to be something more than an everyday writer, anyway.

But then I would tell you to risk it, because I love flex nibs, and it's not my money!

Though if you buy it with the flex nib and are not convinced, you can always get a replacement. Almost like two pens for little more than the cost of one!
 
Yeah, from memory. But you could always measure it: the number corresponds to how many 64ths of an inch wide it is.

By the way, if you don't want to buy the talc and the shellac, or are worried about doing it, I'll happily do it for you.

It will only cost you the postage, and the price of a sac (or I might even have a sparle one laying around).
 
Yes, a really flexy nib can be a little more scratchy. But most modern nibs which are described as flex don't come anything close to the flex of vintage ones, so I suspect that it'll be more of a semi-flex. Plus, given that you're used to an EF nib, and as long as you use reasonably smooth paper, and don't try to write at light speed, I'm sure you'll be fine. After all, I reckon the nib will be of the very highest quality.

FM is right that it wouldn't be what you want to bang out quick notes with, but, to my mind, a pen such as the one you're buying ought to be something more than an everyday writer, anyway.

But then I would tell you to risk it, because I love flex nibs, and it's not my money!

Though if you buy it with the flex nib and are not convinced, you can always get a replacement. Almost like two pens for little more than the cost of one!

I like the sound of this. Your justification, that is.

A full replacement nib would be $205 (old prices), btw, and / or a 4-week & $40 wait. So I'm not sure that's a tempting option :D
 
By the way, if you don't want to buy the talc and the shellac, or are worried about doing it, I'll happily do it for you.

It will only cost you the postage, and the price of a sac (or I might even have a sparle one laying around).

Thanks for your kind offer! I'm planning to give it a go, because it sounds like fun and a good learning experience. But if I find myself in over my head I might take you up on that if that's alright!
 
smmudge said:
Thanks for your kind offer! I'm planning to give it a go, because it sounds like fun and a good learning experience. But if I find myself in over my head I might take you up on that if that's alright!

No problem. It's realty quite straightforward.
 
On the recommendations of people here, I bought an Ohto Tasche and a Platinum Carbon. Not my usual sort of thing, but very impressed with both. The OT is now my pocket pen of choice (in a pen loop attached to my notebook), and the carbon will be my go-to pen for practical drawing.
 
Whilst in the process of deciding that I need to write better, I came across this (Spencerian script example on wiki):

Spencerian_example.jpg

I can't help but think that the 4 (in 1884, top right) looks as if it's been a bit left out of the typeface :D
 
:D

I'm not sure about roundhand style fonts, lean more toward the clarity of Chancery myself.
 
I got my parker sonnet back and for a while it worked ok, but then it started skipping again. Not just a little bit skipping, but no ink running for a while, just like before. Apparently they put a brand new front end on. So they are telling me to prime it and if that doesn't work to flush the nib. How do I flush a nib? Just soak it in water?
 
How do I flush a nib? Just soak it in water?
Normally, you use a convertor - suck in some lukewarm slightly soapy water several times and squirt it out again, then do the same with clean water to rinse it (having any soap in the feed will make the ink flood through it).

If you don't have a convertor, you could get one (they're only a couple of quid and Smiths etc sell them last time I looked) or you could just sloosh it around in a sink of soapy water quite hard for a bit, let it drain out, sloosh it again etc then do the same with clean.

Nibs and feeds do sometimes take a little time to wear in. I have a Platinum with a music nib which I initially thought was awful for skipping, but after a few ink changes and some use it was fine.
 
FridgeMagnet said:
Normally, you use a convertor - suck in some lukewarm slightly soapy water several times and squirt it out again, then do the same with clean water to rinse it (having any soap in the feed will make the ink flood through it).

If you don't have a convertor, you could get one (they're only a couple of quid and Smiths etc sell them last time I looked) or you could just sloosh it around in a sink of soapy water quite hard for a bit, let it drain out, sloosh it again etc then do the same with clean.

Nibs and feeds do sometimes take a little time to wear in. I have a Platinum with a music nib which I initially thought was awful for skipping, but after a few ink changes and some use it was fine.

Sometimes, after flushing with water, I draw in ink and expel it a good few times, too.

Also, I've found that leaving the nib and bottom part of the feed submerged in ink overnight sometimes cures the problem.

And holding the pen at the blind end and shaking it before writing on the first few occasions (with a tissue over the nib!) helps.
 
Fully restored vintage copper Esterbrook J, fine flexible nib (new / new old stock, no. 9048), 5hrs 30 left on the eBay timer, currently running at £23 (in the US; postage etc not included).

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320862576011&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNA:GB:1123

I'd be bidding on it following Athos' recommendation, only I did something utterly inexcusable wrt fountain pens this avo, so won't be buying owt else for a while :D


At around £40 (inc. p&p), now. will probably go higher, though, what with eight bidders and nine bids already! But still a good price, especially for one that is fulley restored and with a master series 9xxx nib. Good luck!

And what did you do this pm?
 
At around £40 (inc. p&p), now. will probably go higher, though, what with eight bidders and nine bids already! But still a good price, especially for one that is fulley restored and with a master series 9xxx nib. Good luck!

And what did you do this pm?
I'm not bidding on it, or I wouldn't've risked added competition :D

Saying nowt about this pm until it arrives! :D
 
I bet he did as well. Your interpretation certainly fits now that I remember that Richard Briers is called Richard Briers.
 
Back
Top Bottom