no. they'll just pretend to have one and over charge anyway.
your perception of sound is where the magic is and only there is every detail important, more details than your tiny little mind understands.
So, if cables aren't it, excluding magic, what is good for getting good sound? Or is it something that only sound engineers learn, while slaying a lamb and being sworn to unending secrecy?
Last question I promise. Is it true that when you buy a new stereo you should play varied music through it for twenty (can't remember the exact number) hours to make it better?
I wonder why?
Don't forget to keep your CDs in the fridge while you are at it.
Other way around in my experience.You mean the old "breaking the stereo/speakers/amp (delete as appropriate) in" schtick?
never made any difference to any of my set-ups, although letting the valves in my guitar amp warm up does make the sound richer, but that's a function of non-solid state electronics, not of anything else.
Other way around in my experience.
My CD player needs to warm up. Used to leave it switched on for years - not done a critical appraisal recently, but I would be worried if it had changed - i.e. "broken in" ...
Valve amp is ready very quickly.
Always best to sacrifice a goat. There's something about goat blood that no demon or deity can say no to.
Other way around in my experience.
My CD player needs to warm up. Used to leave it switched on for years - not done a critical appraisal recently, but I would be worried if it had changed - i.e. "broken in" ...
Valve amp is ready very quickly.
A CD player has masses of precision analogue components - precision voltage dividers, comparators etc. I haven't actually been in the right headspace to do this sort of listening for years - and in fact I now need to find a cheap alternative to a NAIM media player ...
My old NAIM player even has a philips transport that's modified mechanically - manual loading / magnetic puck. When I bought it I listened to several players and was amazed at the variation in sound quality.
Cheap CD player, cheap cables, expensive speakers, amp matched to their power requirements and youd desired volume levels, expensive room treatment if you're really serious.So which bits should you concern yourself with and which bits of kit should you get the cheapest of? Obviously cheapest speaker wire but what else?
In my case it was completely backwards because I started with electrostatic speakers - though I did rebuild my valve amp around that time - 1993 - as the nasty little transistor amp I was using was unstable ...but waited 4 years before I replaced my 14 bit Philips CD player... when I replaced that I couldn't believe how I'd endured it so long.
Cheap CD player, cheap cables, expensive speakers, amp matched to their power requirements and youd desired volume levels, expensive room treatment if you're really serious.
The speakers are the single most important bit of gear, the room you listen in has the biggest effect on them.
Oh and providing you're not using something from the early 80's I still say that all CD players sound the same, any sonic differences are irrelevant compared to the difference you'd get by moving your head 6 inches to the left.
Oh yeah, does anyone know about speaker building? The actual cutting up of ply etc would be piss easy for me as I have a fully kitted-out workshop... Acoustics of them are presumably a little more complicated than 'reduce vibration as much as possible' though. I know a lot of sound-system people, but I reckon high-end home audio would be more in line with the rest of my business. They just seem like quite a good added value product.
They just seem like quite a good added value product.
I used to have hilarious convos with a couple of civil servants I worked with who were audiophiles, where they'd waffle on about "preserving the purity of the sound chain". After much translation it turned out that this meant buying expensive components, powering them through expensively filtered/conditioned mains outlets and linking them with expensive cabling. Apparently any "weak link" in the "sound chain" could cause your "system" to "give sub-par reproduction". You might think that some sort of substitution for having been born with a small penis was taking place, but I couldn't possibly comment as to that...
Both of these paragons of illogicality had record collections numbered in the tens. To surmise that they probably neither of them liked music would have been harsh, but fair.
What's more, 3500 quid for a kettle lead. What in the flying fuck? Really, what in the FLYING fuck? What else could improve an audiophile's listening experience? Should we gold-plate the substation? The pylons?
Especially if you're custom-veneering them with a choice of various bookmatched rainforest delights to match their existing decor.
I knew a similar bloke. He spent way more time pissing about with his kit and talking about that, than he did listening to music.
Not only that, but the high specific gravity of tropical hardwoods when combined with premium audi-grade ply creates a composite material that gives supreme density and vibrational resistance while preserving the tone-colour that you can only get with real woods. With our premium-grade ebony veneer the advantages extend still further - the blackness of the external surfaces helps reduce electromagnetic noise.
I know an audiophile with tinnitus. Shouldn't laugh.