I went for lunch with my two boys at the old cafe on Market Row today, after going to see Despicable Me 2 at the Ritzy - hilarious and a big hit with the boys - and then we had a wander around BV afterwards, as I haven't been there in ages and I was curious to see what it's like now.
I was thinking that Market Row has the balance just about right. There's old places like the cafe and Nour and various grocery stores and suchlike alongside new places like Franco Manca and Seven, and the mix doesn't feel jarring at all. In BV itself, the ratio of old to new is obviously slanted towards the new and it would be nice if it was a bit more like Market Row, with the old and the new co-existing and creating something that is old Brixton and new Brixton all at the same time, but generally it's still not too bad. I felt that if I went on holiday and found somewhere like Brixton Village, I'd like it.
Then, I had a look at the prices at the new restaurants...and that's where it all falls apart. They're just so expensive. And I think that's what sticks in the craw most about Brixton Village and the way the area is going.
I'm sure there'll be someone along to say that the restaurants aren't really that expensive and that's what you should expect to pay in restaurants like that in London these days, and I'm sure that is true, but that's not what Brixton has been about for all these years. People came to Brixton because it was cheap, and that helped to define the area - filling it with musicians and artists and all manner of folk who couldn't afford most of the rest of London. Brixton's cheapness is, in a way, its soul. And if Brixton is suddenly just the same as the rest of London, then has its point - and its soul - been lost?
People hate hipsters not because of how they dress or what they say or what they listen to. Hipsters have always dressed stupidly and been more obscurer than thou - that was the same in the Eighties when hipsters were goths and punks and indiekids, and it's the same now it's twats in cardigans and taches. The difference, I reckon, is that most hipsters back then were broke, whereas most hipsters now are loaded. Hipsters back then, you somehow felt, had to be who they were, they meant it. Now, it's just a lifestyle choice, temporary. "And if you call your Dad, he could stop it all..."
Similarly, I don't think people hate Brixton Village for what it is - it's actually a fairly pleasant collection of bars and restaurants - but for how much it costs. It's the hatred of seeing a place you'd quite like to eat at, but can't afford. And the hatred of seeing the people who can afford it, knowing that they're not quite what you originally came to Brixton for.
Champagne And Fromage pushes it right over the edge. That place doesn't look charming but overpriced. It just looks like a magnet for rich, horrible people. And I fear it could be a Year Zero for Brixton Village like Franco Manca was a Year Zero for Market Row/Brixton in general. One day, when everywhere in BV is like C+F, maybe we'll look back on the Brixton Village of today and think, hey, it wasn't so bad after all...