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The Forbidden Railway: Vienna to Pyongyang

strung out

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i came across this blog earlier, detailing the journey of an austrian who decided to try and get into north korea via the trans-siberian railway across the russian/north korean border. he had to gain passage on a virtually unknown route from irkutsk to pyongyang which only travels twice a month, but allowed him 36 hours uncontrolled access to north korea before he was picked up in pyongyang by government 'guides' he'd arranged shortly before crossing the border (short enough notice that he couldn't be stopped from crossing the border by the authorities).

in it, he manages to talk to a few normal north korean citizens as well as visiting various small cities/towns between the border and the capital, though often only able to explore the immediate surroundings of train stations before his train set off again.

there are a plethora of photos that will interest railway buffs and those who are interested in north korea itself. as well as his unique journey, it also documents his movements once he gets to pyongyang and the more well known tourist destinations of north korea. i managed to lose four hours to this blog earlier, so it's worth setting aside some time to check it out. there's positively hours of reading and photo browsing here, and i managed to find out a lot of things which i hadn't seen before elsewhere.

http://vienna-pyongyang.blogspot.com/2008/04/how-everything-began.html

here's the bloke standing outside his north korean sleeper carriage which took him across russia and down to pyongyang
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this is the guy's ticket showing his trip from irkutsk to pyongyang
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having dinner with the north korean train conductors
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a provincial north korean train station
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passing through a small village where some kind of meeting is going on
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apparently, their trip caused quite a stir and it's doubtful that any foreigners will be allowed to pass into north korea via this route anytime soon. still, i found it a great story, and as someone who has an interest in the country as well as intercontinental train journeys and trains generally, it kept me interest for hours.
 
Nice one, strung out. Just finished reading it. It's touching how at times he seems more interested in the trains than in DPRK. :D
 
That's ace. The guy is clearly quite mad, but charmingly so. I loved how it takes 11 days of travel, having made it to Ussuriysk, before he feels he's "leaving the usual tourist-routes".
 
One thing I never knew about North Korea was that it had special beach resorts for tourists, fascinating blog, it has made the train geek in me come out as well.
 
From the photo's there is wide spread agriculture, which I presume is mechanised by the size and layouts of the fields but the British ambasador on the radio today was talking about widespread malnutirtion, what are they doing with all the crops? exporting them in exchange for imports (weapons?)?
 
From the photo's there is wide spread agriculture, which I presume is mechanised by the size and layouts of the fields but the British ambasador on the radio today was talking about widespread malnutirtion, what are they doing with all the crops? exporting them in exchange for imports (weapons?)?

Low productivity? Lack of access to fertiliser and other chemical inputs? Floods and natural disaster? Capitalist disinformation at a time of record harvests and heroic peasant achievements?
 
80% of NK is pretty much rocks and mountains & thus unfarmable . Outside of this, every single inch of barely level land is used - the verges alongside the main roads are tilled by hand for example. Much of the land however is farmed in almost stone age fashion - basic ploughs, Oxen, hand sowing and harvesting. There just isnt the fuel available to allow serious mechanisation. in Pyongyang itself, hybrid Diesel/ Electric trolley buses are the normal way of getting aroubnd, exepct when they have no Diesel left or the Leccy fails ( very regular). Outside the big cities, there is quite an unbelieveable lack of basic utilities like water n leccy.
 
The immaculate line of white stones along the edge of the ballast is interesting in that respect. Laid by hand for miles and miles and miles - up to this white line you may farm...
 
Brilliant - thanks for posting this.

Reading the first bits I was thinking this guy is my Austrian doppelganger. He wins out on obscurity and adventurousness of journeys though. I note there is also an account on there of getting to Iran by train...something I have been idly contemplating for some time so I will have to have a look at that too.
 
Brilliant - thanks for posting this.

Reading the first bits I was thinking this guy is my Austrian doppelganger. He wins out on obscurity and adventurousness of journeys though. I note there is also an account on there of getting to Iran by train...something I have been idly contemplating for some time so I will have to have a look at that too.

I believe you go through Turkey and get on a boat-train thing :cool:
 
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