Spec up the ultimate commuter bike
- Thread starter nick
- Start date
sleaterkinney
Well-Known Member
Really small front gearing, are the hills that bad?
mauvais
on reddit or something
It has a rear mudguard now.A commuter bike without mudguards
Given that it's on 27.5, it's not far off a traditional 26" 3x9 mountain bike setup*. 38/28 and 11-42. It's a bit undergeared for very high speed, 25mph+, and I may change that in time, but I do live up a big hill. For the most part it's good.
*60 cadence on 26" with 44/11 is 30.1mph. On my bike it's 27.0mph.
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mauvais
on reddit or something
Ta
As I said before, it's definitely overkill - the value alone, but also the Fox fork, although it locks out pretty solidly and I ride over a long cobbled section every day where I get some use from it. The real benefit is that I can swap out those WTB tyres for some hefty 2.2 trail ones and go and ride singletrack. Sadly I've only managed a single instance of getting on the trail so far - such a busy year and no car to transport myself out to the hills at present.
Only one of many, many options but I've always fancied a Cotic and they're a lovely company to deal with.
Ted Striker
Foot's on the other hand
If I were you (me!), I'd get stuck into the latest fad of a road bike with discs and whopping clearances to run 700c x 28s or 32s, but also 27.5 X2.1 mtb tyres. (Add di2 and make the frame out if titanium, and you'll get what I'm building now.)
These pics just in
Cid
Proper break this time
These pics just in
Shit, sorry to see that your frame's been dinged...
nick
Pleomorphic Adenomas R us
Well that Retul was very enjoyable. The bloke doing it said he trained in architecture, but is a bike nut so does this now instead - ended up spending 4 hours on the fitting + bike chat.
I didn't feel that he was upselling - trying to make savings if anything. He is going to speak with some colleagues and then price up a few builds at various price points for me.
If I remember correctly it looks like the makes to that fit me seem to be narrowed down to Moots Routt, Trek Domane and Specialized Roubaix. All with variations of electric shifts, disc brakes, 650B or 700 wheels and drop handle bars
The Moots would look the most "special" and would last a lifetime, being Ti, but would weigh a couple of kg more and would probably cost about 30% more than the others.
Will talk to him more when he has specced it all up and I have looked at the numbers in the cold light of day. If nothing else he managed to sell me some insoles because apparently I pronate big time
Mrs Nick made a funny noise when I told her the price ranges I was considering - which was obviously a mistake on my behalf
I didn't feel that he was upselling - trying to make savings if anything. He is going to speak with some colleagues and then price up a few builds at various price points for me.
If I remember correctly it looks like the makes to that fit me seem to be narrowed down to Moots Routt, Trek Domane and Specialized Roubaix. All with variations of electric shifts, disc brakes, 650B or 700 wheels and drop handle bars
The Moots would look the most "special" and would last a lifetime, being Ti, but would weigh a couple of kg more and would probably cost about 30% more than the others.
Will talk to him more when he has specced it all up and I have looked at the numbers in the cold light of day
. If nothing else he managed to sell me some insoles because apparently I pronate big timeMrs Nick made a funny noise when I told her the price ranges I was considering - which was obviously a mistake on my behalf
Cid
Proper break this time
Which one?
Cid
Proper break this time
That... that frameset is £3.5k right? I wasn't dreaming/having a nightmare?
Has Mrs nick said what I just said yet?
nick
Pleomorphic Adenomas R us
Blue or green depending on the light
It turned up before Christmas.
Unfortunately I'm not commuting at the moment - but it is a joy to do a couple of laps of Richmond park on it. Although it is far too good for me: Strava says I'm just in the top 23,000 for the "Tour de Richmond" - but hoping to build some speed in due course. There was a delay on the rear mech - so they built it with a lower spec one and will swap it out for the latest version when I take it in for the tune-up service in a couple of weeks
Yes it was silly money - but it makes me smile when I'm on it
beesonthewhatnow
going deaf for a living
A guy in my club has one. That seat post looks bloody silly but apparently really does work...
nick
Pleomorphic Adenomas R us
. The 'cobble gobbler" apparently
Yep, it works - As does the small amount of front suspension under the handlebar - even though it is called "future shock" - which is almost as wince-inducing a name as the "SWAT box" tool kit that goes at the bottom of the frame next to the bottle cages. It's a good thing if you can get past the marketing led naming convention
DownwardDog
Riding a Brompton with a power meter.
Check your firmware versions because most bike shops never bother with the upgrades...
nick
Pleomorphic Adenomas R us
Possibly the epitome of first world problems
Yep I updated the firmware with e-tube. Possibly the clunkiest piece of software known to human-kind. Was vaguely thinking of changing the shifting to semi-auto, but was worried that I might bork the whole set up. Will talk to the mechanic when in for service
DownwardDog
Riding a Brompton with a power meter.
Possibly the epitome of first world problems
Yep I updated the firmware with e-tube. Possibly the clunkiest piece of software known to human-kind. Was vaguely thinking of changing the shifting to semi-auto, but was worried that I might bork the whole set up. Will talk to the mechanic when in for service
You need to make sure your battery is a BT-DN110 not an SM-BTR2 (e-tube will tell you) to get synchro shifting. If your system has it you can't fuck it up by selecting full or semi-synchro as you can always cycle back to 'normal' shift mode by double-clicking the button on the bottom of your EW-90B junction box. I always ride in full synchro and never even think about my front derailleur now.
The e-tube mobile app is way better than the PC thing but you need to add an EW-WU101 wireless transceiver (and annoyingly another di2 cable) into the system to get Bluetooth/ANT+. You can also get gear indication on your Garmin which is scientifically proven to be worth between 3 and 5 km/h depending on conditions.
beesonthewhatnow
going deaf for a living
Could have done with this on a hill the other day. Went to change down as my legs couldn’t push the gear any more. Gears seem broken and won’t shift. Then I realised I was already in first gear. Bugger
nick
Pleomorphic Adenomas R us
I have BT-DN110, but EW-90A and not B - does that affect anything?
Very tempted by the Bluetooth (EW-WU101) - but it currently feels like a bit of an extravagance
DownwardDog
Riding a Brompton with a power meter.
EW-90B is the 5 port, EW-90A is the 3 port. I assumed you'd have the B for sprint shifters on the tops of the bar for a commuter. They both work the same and will support semi/full synchro. EW-WU101 is worth it not to have to deal with the PC version of e-tube IMO.
nick
Pleomorphic Adenomas R us
I got the Bluetooth module put in, so can now see my ratios on the GArmin. not sure what value it adds, but it's a nice gimmick.
Also got them to set it up full-synchro whilst it was being set up. Not sure I'm a fan (having only done about 30 miles in this mode) as I'm not that good at spotting when the front is going to change as well - and have experienced the odd crunch when not easing off the pedals enough. Will try semi-synchro next, that seems a bit more sensible.
My old commute used to take 55 minutes on a pub bike and I thought I could do it in 45 once I got this one. Did it for the first time yesterday and came in at 32 minutes. So the improvement is significant
Also got them to set it up full-synchro whilst it was being set up. Not sure I'm a fan (having only done about 30 miles in this mode) as I'm not that good at spotting when the front is going to change as well - and have experienced the odd crunch when not easing off the pedals enough. Will try semi-synchro next, that seems a bit more sensible.
My old commute used to take 55 minutes on a pub bike and I thought I could do it in 45 once I got this one. Did it for the first time yesterday and came in at 32 minutes. So the improvement is significant
beesonthewhatnow
going deaf for a living
That's one hell of an improvementMy old commute used to take 55 minutes on a pub bike and I thought I could do it in 45 once I got this one. Did it for the first time yesterday and came in at 32 minutes. So the improvement is significant
DownwardDog
Riding a Brompton with a power meter.
I got the Bluetooth module put in, so can now see my ratios on the GArmin. not sure what value it adds, but it's a nice gimmick.
Also got them to set it up full-synchro whilst it was being set up. Not sure I'm a fan (having only done about 30 miles in this mode) as I'm not that good at spotting when the front is going to change as well - and have experienced the odd crunch when not easing off the pedals enough. Will try semi-synchro next, that seems a bit more sensible.
My old commute used to take 55 minutes on a pub bike and I thought I could do it in 45 once I got this one. Did it for the first time yesterday and came in at 32 minutes. So the improvement is significant
If your FD can't shift smoothly under full power it's not set up correctly. It's very sensitive to height and even 1mm either way can make a difference to shifting performance. A crunchy shift from inner to outer under power usually means it's too low.
Just read this weepiper - a bit too late to be of any use i fear. ive had a rohloff equipped Thorn Raven for 15 years. As you say they are very very good. Their main reputation is built upon absolute reliability i believe, along with a huge reduction in any necessary maintenance (by contrast to a derailer).. Rarely had to perform any maintenance on mine in any event, even when doing 20 miles a day very regularly over a very long period. id strongly recommend. But cheap they aint.
