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wobbly
how do you make ink?
i usually buy Waterman's brown. Green Ink from Sheaffer ...
Also, don't you find that crappy paper makes fine lines blotchy?
my own mixed rather than home made.
how do you make ink?
i usually buy Waterman's brown. Green Ink from Sheaffer ...
Also, don't you find that crappy paper makes fine lines blotchy?
Diamine do some good darkish purples - their Amazing Amethyst is one of my favourites. http://www.diamineinks.co.uk/detail.aspx?prodcode=278
J Herbin Poussiere de Lune is also nice but I've gone off it a bit.
I saw this and thought of you all:
To be mores specific High Voltage Scribblers do a fair selection of nibs and you can get an oblique holder here. Copperplate nibs are what you want, specifically one with loads of flex. There are flex fountain pens but you'd have trouble writing like that due to angles (Copperplate is ridiculously impractical, although that particular example is more upright that most and might be manageable). Athos knows about flex nib fountain pens, they turn up on ebay occasionally - I actually have one but the name has slipped my mind. The right nibs are quite rare. mrs quoad had a bit of a foray into copperplate somewhere in the depths of this thread I think.
High Voltage, I agree with Cid that it's a dip pen with an offset (aka oblique) nib holder, into which there's been fitted an extra-fine, extra-flexible nib. I'd say ebay's your best bet. Maybe look up an inexpensive brand like Speedball. Often, they do sets with the pen and a selection on nibs. I doubt the ones in the sets are quite as fine and flexible as that, but, to be honest, until you get used to using it, it'd be too much to go straight to a nib like the one in the gif. You can always buy a finer, more flexible nib separately, later. mrs quoad is the one who knows most about this stuff, though.
http://www.nibs.com/NamikiFalconPage.htm
*cough* comes in at about £200 for the Mottishaw Spencerian grind.
I'd be tempted to challenge one of your assumptions - that "custom nib" implies a necessary plural.I'm glad I moved from fountain pens before I got into custom nibs - I'm just too lazy for calligraphy.
Pelican pens has just received an order of "thousands" of noodlers pens: http://www.purepens.co.uk/acatalog/Noodlers-Pen-s-.html
Tbh, I find that about as tempting as a new fp offer is likely to get!
On the one hand, I'm just not sure I'd ever use it. I struggle to use my 5 / 6 top end pens
I have literally no idea.how do these compare to Lamy Safaris?
I have literally no idea.
They've got a reputation as a solid, cheap, flex-nibbled offering.
Noodlers has a reputation as an eccentric company, prone to producing eccentric inks (apparently made by hand in a garage) and unpredictable batches of usually-unavailable pens.
I've seen them reviewed as highly favourable by pen geeks. Their reputation, eccentricity and flex leaves me curious.
Comparing e.g. an Ahab with a Safari is not comparing like with like.hah, yes that is what i have heard too.
they're priced slightly more than a lamy safari, am wondering if they're better or even on the same level as a pilot mr.
am tempted.
My two penn'orth: my automatic pencil obsession predated my fp obsession. Particularly those that held v small / 0.3mm leads.
mechanical pencils allowed?
i found these amazing value and they cost under a tenner from a certain japanese seller on amazon.
perfect weight for writing. solid feel and construction.
I got a Super Promecha recently and it packed up within about a week or two. Just won't advance the lead any more. The cheapo ones seem to last forever no matter what I do with them.My two penn'orth: my automatic pencil obsession predated my fp obsession. Particularly those that held v small / 0.3mm leads.
I had the Graphgear 1000 and 500; and the Ohto Promecha and Super Promecha.
In both cases, the more basic models outlasted their posher siblings by donkeys years. The rotating lead indicator on my 1000 didn't last a fortnight, and the whole bloody thing ended up snapping in half (just behind the lead indicator / at the main join). Shit went wrong with the Super, too.
Both their more basic counterparts were just stonking workhorses though - each lasted years (and iirc only died when I did something stupid and bent the final thin nib bit / lead holder)
I used to have a set of Rotring Rapidograph pens (never knew what the difference was between the Rapidograph and Isograph ranges). I used the 0.1mm all the time. In fact I used that one so much I wore at least two out. They were a real bugger to keep clean and even if you used their own-brand ink they clogged up within minutes if you left the top off.On a different note I've recently resurrected my Rotring Isographs. There is no finer pen for technical drawing... They are unforgiving, but nothing else (except the faber equivalent) will give you a precisely defined line thickness in increments as low as 0.02mm. Not suitable for fibrous papers (although my sister used, possibly still uses, them for illustration).
These 3 are genius, but very fragile...
Crispy