Cool towns in Spain (that aren't Madrid/Granada/Barcelona)...

[Sweet FA]

I had an excellent few weeks driving around Spain this summer & stopped off at places I'd not been to before...

Bilbao: went for the Guggenheim really but the city itself and the Siete Calles area in particular are fantastic. Loads of small bars, incredible pintxos, arty, political, lively. Where each of the streets cross in that area, there's a bar on each corner so the centre of the crossroads becomes a little party. Christ knows how the bar owners keep track; I'm sure I paid for beers at bars I didn't buy them from. There's a game the locals play that involves throwing metal discs into a metal frogs mouth; subject of much drunkenness and hilarity. Oh and the Guggenheim's the most beautiful building I've ever seen.

Malaga: as with most Brits I guess, Malaga's somewhere the plane lands, you hire a car and bugger off out of sharpish. The centre, between the Cathedral and around Calle Larios is really cool though; Moorish architecture, loads of bars with good tapas and cool even during the heat of August. Pretty touristy but overwhelmingly Spanish tourists. There's a beautiful park between the Cathedral and the marina/beach. The park's really shady with lots of little nooks with statues in them where people snooze away the afternoons. The beach is excellent too with a couple of decent chiringuitas.

So any other cities that don't necessarily get the attention of 'the big 3'?

 

[Maltin]

So any other cities that don't necessarily get the attention of 'the big 3'?

is Granada part of a big 3? Valencia is the third biggest city and is a good place to go.

 

[Sweet FA]

is Granada part of a big 3? Valencia is the third biggest city and is a good place to go.

Only in my own head probably . I know loads about Barcelona/Madrid/Granada but haven't spent time in many other cities.

Why's Valencia good? Pamplona's another cool little city; probably the friendliest town I've visited in Spain. Locals really keen to help out with directions to their favourite bars/restaurants, excellent menus del dia complete with unlabelled bottles of pretty good red.

Perhaps I should do a 'towns that aren't so cool'. Jaen for instance. Drove around for 40 mins trying to find the centre and a half decent hotel and nada. Ended up bailing and finding a great motel about 30kms further south.

 

[Maltin]

Only in my own head probably . I know loads about Barcelona/Madrid/Granada but haven't spent time in many other cities.

Why's Valencia good?

A nice mix of old and new. A nice beach. A dry river. Beautiful weather. Formula 1. Some cool looking buildings.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ciutat_de_les_Arts_i_les_Ciències

 

[Maltin]

You mentioned Malaga which I enjoyed going to. Also Mijas and Ronda near there are very nice.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ronda

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mijas

 

[Sweet FA]

I like Ronda/Mijas but I guess I was thinking of larger towns/cities that aren't top of the list for a visit (though Bilbao probably doesn't really fit those flabby parameters ).

 

[Maltin]

I've not been there yet but heard good things about Cadiz and the surrounding area.

 

[tombowler]

I really liked my one visit to Itero De La Vega, great bar when i went got to drink smoke and try diablo.

 

[Riklet]

Cadíz: oldest city in europe maybe possibly, good beaches around it, nice atmosphere, interesting archaeology museum n pretty spectacular to arrive into when you cross the bridge. Close to Jerez de la Frontera which is probs worth a sherry-fueled day trip.

Seville: big, fun, fairly cheap, spectacular sights but also very local and real. I am probably biased but it's a great place for a few days if you want a smaller (but hardly small) city. Good tapas and weather is great until november or so.. best visited outside peak summer months too.

Córdoba: The Mezquita and various sights are cool, it's a bit of a small Sevilla in some ways. It feels pretty friendly, interesting political stuff in the street when I was there and it's chilled out generally.

Jaén: small city, free tapas with drinks, cheap, friendly, biggest moorish baths in all of amdalucia, cool castle you can climb up to with some ace views. friend of mine lived there n really fell in love with the place.

Toledo: never been but it's a medieval walled city near Madrid, very popular but meant to be stunning.

Besalu: small medieval town in Catalunya which is quite near Girona (great little place) and Figueres so good for a day trip if you're in that area (for Dali museum or Girona "Barcelona" airport.

Vitoria/Gasteiz: another Basque city, its the capital and very green n non steriotypically Spanish. Lots of narrow streets, an art museum, fuck all tourists but good for a wander around in decent weather. Lots of Basque language bars on one or two central streets.

Asturias: never been but Gijon and Oviedo are meant to be cool to visit, interesting area n history there too.. boat to Santander then bus/train are def options.

 

[Sweet FA]

Cheers Riklet; perhaps I should have given Jaen more of a chance then. We arrived on a Sunday afternoon though, so perhaps the surliness I encountered was down to hangovers. Cadiz is one that's always interested me and we were going to stop off in Toledo on the way back from Malaga - Santander. Next time maybe.

 

[Stanley Edwards]

Leon.

There are no cities in Spain I haven't spent good time in. Everyone who reads here often will know Granada is my favourite, and my home. But, Leon is fab. It is not a big city, but it has the right balance of old and new. It is very affordable. I could recommend good hotels from €17/night. I have many friends there now - I have visited so often.

The cathedral has some of the best stained glass windows I have ever seen (if that is your sort of thing). The old town is stuffed with fantastic, very individual little bars. No fucking branded shit going on here. There is even a Manx bar! Yes a Manx bar!!! Sod the Irish bar, Leon knows what Celtic history is all about. A Manx bar in a city with a population of about 200,000 in Northern Spain

It gets better. There is even a bar dedicated to the Super Furry Animals. I am not joking!

It is a fantastic little city for all sorts of reasons. As friendly as they get. They love Brits. I would live there if winter wasn't so cold.

Leon and Pamplona with Burgos in between are well worth a week. Highly, highly, highly recommended.

 

[boohoo]

Girona - from what I remember very pretty
Tarragona - lots of Roman stuff.

 

[Stanley Edwards]

Good for a day...

San Sebastian. Two huge bays with beautiful beaches. Incredible seafood. Bars and terraces are great for just lazing and people watching. The old town is small. It is not like any other city in Spain. Culturally very unique. Lots of traditional fiestas celebrating stupid stuff, but mostly about its fishing heritage and seafood.

Stnningly beautiful coastal hikes.

Santiago de Compostela. Just a very beautiful little city with a magnificent cathedral. The surrounding countryside is magical. Enchanting even. But, it ain't worth much more than a day. Very conservative. I'd have to go further and accuse it of being very racist. Nice parks and shit, but it rains lots.

Pamplona. Fabulous city if you don't visit during San Firmin. I like Pamplona lots. The people are great. Fantastic bars. Riverside hikes and great parks. The central plaza is on the edge of the old town which is pretty much the center of the nightlife. No 'wow' highlights, just a very amicable place with lots of green spaces and happy people.

Salamanca. 'Wow' architecture and the best tapas bars in Spain. I would also vote for the best wines. Toro wines a great, full bollocks, no messing reds. Huge student population (it is the oldest university in Spain, and possibly the most respected). So, gives the city a young, optimistic vibe amongst the splendour of renaissance architecture. A very wealthy place, and quite conservative in some respects. But, for a day visit it is great.

Caceres and Merida. Caceres for the charm of a perfectly preserved medevil town center and a fantastic music festival. Merida for Roman remains and the fun of a small city trying to be cool. Funky modern architecture and a great riverside park. Fabulous hiking trails between the Two cities. Breathtakingly beautiful Extremadura countryside with well kept footpaths.

Think after Leon and Granada (which are the best cities in Europe) those would be my top tips for Spain.

 

[sim667]

Girona

Seville

 

[Stanley Edwards]

I'm going to have to put Sitges on the list also.

It's a very glam, abfab little seaside town. Very gay also. Carnival is absolute craziness. I don't know why I like it so much, but I like it much. It's sort of just about hanging on to respectability as a fashion scene, but promising to go way too far anytime soon. Cool as fuck IMO. Very real at the same time as being so far up it's own arse the sun may stop shining.

Beach after beach after beach. Two main promenades on either side of the very picturesque church. Couple of seafront restaurants display my very fine art work on their walls.

It sort of evokes a feeling of real glam without any pretention. You know there are no film stars around, but can imagine this is where they would be if they had any sense. Fascinating little town. Love it.

 

[Remus Harbank]

Tarifa. And Cadiz.

 

[killer b]

i spent two weeks in salamanca as a teenager, and thought it was incredible. beautiful city, friendly people, lots of bars.

 

[pennimania]

I am thinking about going to Valladolid because I have always wanted to see the polychromatic sculptures there.

Anyone been there?

 

[davesgcr]

Only transferred plane to train at V/oid - has an excellent station bar with cold beer , Tapas.

 

[dessiato]

I am about to move to a small town outside Seville, the are looks great and I am every excited by the prospect. From what my wife, who is already there, tells me it is a great area.

 

[Lo Siento.]

Good for a day...

San Sebastian. Two huge bays with beautiful beaches. Incredible seafood. Bars and terraces are great for just lazing and people watching. The old town is small. It is not like any other city in Spain. Culturally very unique. Lots of traditional fiestas celebrating stupid stuff, but mostly about its fishing heritage and seafood.

Was Pintxos in the old town to touristy for you? That was my favourite pastime there...

 

[Stanley Edwards]

Was Pintxos in the old town to touristy for you? That was my favourite pastime there...

Not cheap, but nice. If I wasn't just hanging about on the terraces I would be in the 'radicals' bar (forget the name) claiming to be Welsh. I always really enjoy San Sebastian. Chilling on the terraces, or beach. Fishing off the bridge. Beautiful walks along the camino route. The narrow guage, hop on hop off train for exploring other Basque towns, Atlantic sunsets. I remeber one evening sitting on the sea wall watching an amazing sunset. Just as it had set I turnd around to see a beautiful moon starting to rise above the trees. It isn't like anywhere else in Spain. Very unique for many reasons. Despite the regular Friday evening protests and constant reminder that many still consider the fight for independence is still on, it has a very gentle, relaxed vibe alongside an austere, workman like approach to life from the locals.

Really wanted to get there this summer and enjoy a bit of Atlantic fishing whilst searching for John Toshack. Alas, illness and cash crisis. Next year!

The old town is heavily tourist focussed. However, I think it's uniqueness somehow makes the commercial slant more tolerable to me.

 

[Stanley Edwards]

I am thinking about going to Valladolid because I have always wanted to see the polychromatic sculptures there.

Anyone been there?

Valladolid was a fabulous surprise to me. I ended up there accidently (back tracking to Madrid to replace a stolen passport). People told me it was fascistic. I had a great time. It has a river with a beach and very nice riverside walks. Some beautiful buildings and lovely plazas.

I was a bit of a celebrity whilst I stayed there. Met some journalists working for 20 Minutes who gave me a very nice spot in the next days paper. Loads and loads of people kept coming up to meet and chat. I also spent a drunken night at a party of exchange students. It was a performance party so I performed a bit of John Cooper Clarke for all the student hipsters They loved it.

It is a pleasant city, but there is a huge problem with homelessness and begging. This is probably why it has a bit of a reputation for being fascistic. It isn't at all. It's a great little city and very diverse for the size. You'll enjoy it.

 

[pennimania]

Valladolid was a fabulous surprise to me. I ended up there accidently (back tracking to Madrid to replace a stolen passport). People told me it was fascistic. I had a great time. It has a river with a beach and very nice riverside walks. Some beautiful buildings and lovely plazas.

I was a bit of a celebrity whilst I stayed there. Met some journalists working for 20 Minutes who gave me a very nice spot in the next days paper. Loads and loads of people kept coming up to meet and chat. I also spent a drunken night at a party of exchange students. It was a performance party so I performed a bit of John Cooper Clarke for all the student hipsters They loved it.

It is a pleasant city, but there is a huge problem with homelessness and begging. This is probably why it has a bit of a reputation for being fascistic. It isn't at all. It's a great little city and very diverse for the size. You'll enjoy it.

That's done it then! I'm spending the money I'm not spending on Glastonbury iykwim , on going to Valladolid and probably visiting Madrid too

Shall be back to pick people's brains.

What's the weather like in say February ?

 

[Stanley Edwards]

...
What's the weather like in say February ?

Cold, but normally dry and sunny. By 4pm you can be down to a couple of layers in sunshine. Temperature plummets after sunset, but rarely reaches freezing.

Valladolid has a very lively night scene. Large student population helps. For a city supposedly fascistic, or extremely Conservative at the least it actually has a very vibrant alternative scene. I think I remeber blogging about this - wondering if the healthy opposition was just a natural reaction.

 

[pennimania]

I would love to go at Easter because I know they have this festival when they parade the statues round the town but I'm guessing this would be muy expensive and booked up.

I am really feeling excited about this now. It sounds as if it is really interesting. I first read about it in a book by Sacheverell (sp) Sitwell when I was writing a thesis about said sculpture

 

[Stanley Edwards]

They do Semana Santa parades for Holy Week. Not quite as sanctimonious as Granada and Seville, but it is important, and yes - it is likley to be fully booked. It isn't a cheap place to stay. I was paying €35/night for a box room with no windows. The night watch guy even came in and emptied the bowl of sweets and snacks because I refused to give card numbers as deposit Couch Surfing could be a good option as there is a large student population.

Wikipedia page is interesting. Tells me record low for Feb' is -16ºC With record high of 23ºC. Variable then

 

[flypanam]

Vitoria/Gasteiz: another Basque city, its the capital and very green n non steriotypically Spanish. Lots of narrow streets, an art museum, fuck all tourists but good for a wander around in decent weather. Lots of Basque language bars on one or two central streets.

This.

I went last year with my missus and it was five days of sheer pleasure. Really friendly, great bars and when we were there there was a basketball tournament in the square where the tourist office is. The narrow streets are cool and one night we bumped into a mobile ska band that had lots of brass, an epic street party kicked off, which actually doubled up as a recruiting drive for EHAK (basque communists.) or their successors.

The food is excellent as is the booze and if me or the missus ever won the lottery we'll be moving there!

 

[Riklet]

Any tips for the Mediterranean coast folks, Valencia Murcia or Eastern Andalucia?

Im planning on going Jerez and Sanlúcar with my Dad for 3 days, but if he'd prefer heading a different direction, I need a back up plan!

Leon and Bierzo area up towards Galicia would be fantastic if the weather was a bit better... Haha

 

[Tankus]

Visited Córdoba for the first time last week .....day out bussed in tourist trap.. totally ( bit like Rhonda) ....the full sized Catholic cathedral inside a mosque which seemed to be around two full sized football pitches in size just blew me away. ....no walls between the two .....A sort of multi faith medievil religious mall.. great tapas in the old town bars ....

Seville ,Malaga ,Nerja ( caves , pretty town.... €8 for 4 pints and 4 quality tapas ..OMG ) and Rhonda get the thumbs up from me too ........

Been to Gibraltar quite a few times over the 25 years ....( Worlds most expensive Morrison's...heh )..now off my visit list ....
Always did the cable car from the park to the top and a walk back amongst the Monkey's along the ridge back into the other side of town .....a fav walk .....
Absolutely fekkin pointless now since the Gib put in the super cruiser dock....last time I went there (few years back)...border getting in was a paff as the Spanish border controls were having their annual strop...
There were 3 Costalotta sized cruisers in there disgorging around 15000 tourists who all have to do the caves ,cable car ,military tunnels and ridge all in the space of 6 hours ......you had to queue to get in to the queue to queue .....
Pointless ...Hit the bar down the new(ish) marina then caught the bus back ....don't think I'll ever bother going back ....the 1960's UK spanglish charm has gone .