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Any electricians here? (Hardwiring a cooker advice)

Minnie_the_Minx

Minnie_the_Minx

someinenhhanding menbag and me ah bollox
Or anyone that knows anything about electrics or know what the difference between a 6 and 10 amp cable is?
 
I'm not an electrician, but I have wired in cookers before.

A fully electric cooker needs to be on a 30amp circuit, and be installed using a 30amp cable.

If you have (or have had) an electric cooker at home before, shouldn't be a problem - just remember to switch off that circuit at the fuse box aka consumer unit before you do anything.

If you've bought a new cooker, it should come with appropriate cable already attached, which you simply reconnect the same way as the old one was connected.

Various helpful links here
 
2hats said:
Don't use a 6 amp cable when you actually need a 10 amp one... :eek:
Click to expand...

I rang manufacturer and he said either was ok. :hmm:


andysays said:
I'm not an electrician, but I have wired in cookers before.

A fully electric cooker needs to be on a 30amp circuit, and be installed using a 30amp cable.

If you have (or have had) an electric cooker at home before, shouldn't be a problem - just remember to switch off that circuit at the fuse box aka consumer unit before you do anything.

If you've bought a new cooker, it should come with appropriate cable already attached, which you simply reconnect the same way as the old one was connected.

Various helpful links here
Click to expand...

It DOESN'T come with a cable. I think this is to get people to use electricians :mad:
 
I suspect you mean 6 and 10mm , depending how it's run 6mm is 30-32ish amps,from memory 10mm is about 40.
P.S 6mm is fine for most electric cookers ,a triple oven costing thousands might need 10mm.
 
Minnie_the_Minx said:
I rang manufacturer and he said either was ok.
Click to expand...

Hmm, that sounds a little dodgy. Are you talking about a fully electric cooker? I have a gas cooker, which only needs electricity for the clock and the ignition, so has a conventional plug to get power, but I'm assuming you're not talking about that.

Minnie_the_Minx said:
It DOESN'T come with a cable. I think this is to get people to use electricians :mad:
Click to expand...

You can buy a metre of cooker cable (or more if you want to put your cooker at a distance from the socket) from various suppliers - you don't need to show your official electrician's card.

Minnie_the_Minx said:
Yes, I do know how to google :p:mad:
Click to expand...

In that case, I'll leave you to find a suitable supplier...
 
peterkro said:
If it's just a go to market electric cooker 6mm square twin and earth cable is fine,I'm assuming that's why the makers said either is fine.
Click to expand...
Either will be fine, 6 obviously cheaper than 10. 10 will be possibly more awkward to work with (ie bend into shape at the terminals).
It should be clearly marked on the terminals in the cooker. You should also make sure you use earth wire shield, a soft plastic yelly and green tube that goes over the exposed earth wire when you've stripped the cable.
 
andysays said:
Hmm, that sounds a little dodgy. Are you talking about a fully electric cooker? I have a gas cooker, which only needs electricity for the clock and the ignition, so has a conventional plug to get power, but I'm assuming you're not talking about that.
Click to expand...

A twin-cavity (but single oven and top cavity is grill) freestanding cooker (fan operated)


You can buy a metre of cooker cable (or more if you want to put your cooker at a distance from the socket) from various suppliers - you don't need to show your official electrician's card.
Click to expand...

Yeah, he said I could go to B&Q or Homebase and get 1-1.5 metre cooker cable.



In that case, I'll leave you to find a suitable supplier...
Click to expand...

Oh, I wasn't being narky about knowing how to google, it's just that I don't fully understand. I read somewhere because it's fan operated, it needs this, and if it's a double oven it needs this etc. etc. etc. if you see what I mean, so was getting confused with all the information. :D

PS: I previously had an electric cooker, but it wasn't fan operated and it wasn't a double oven. It was very old and has died. It was connected to a proper cooker socket though, although that's just been moved as apparently it's now illegal to have trunking and socket directly above a cooker
 
artyfarty said:
Either will be fine, 6 obviously cheaper than 10. 10 will be possibly more awkward to work with (ie bend into shape at the terminals).
It should be clearly marked on the terminals in the cooker. You should also make sure you use earth wire shield, a soft plastic yelly and green tube that goes over the exposed earth wire when you've stripped the cable.
Click to expand...

Will let friend know. Whilst I'm quite happy to change plugs/fuses (which you can no longer do anyway as appliances normally have them already attached), I'm scared of doing a cooker :oops:
 
Minnie_the_Minx said:
A twin-cavity (but single oven and top cavity is grill) freestanding cooker (fan operated)

Yeah, he said I could go to B&Q or Homebase and get 1-1.5 metre cooker cable.

Oh, I wasn't being narky about knowing how to google, it's just that I don't fully understand. I read somewhere because it's fan operated, it needs this, and if it's a double oven it needs this etc. etc. etc. if you see what I mean, so was getting confused with all the information. :D

PS: I previously had an electric cooker, but it wasn't fan operated and it wasn't a double oven. It was very old and has died. It was connected to a proper cooker socket though, although that's just been moved as apparently it's now illegal to have trunking and socket directly above a cooker
Click to expand...

I wasn't trying to be narky either, so no worries :)

Glad to hear you've got a friend who can assist if you're unsure, because all joking aside, you need to be confident it's been done right.

Hope you've promised them a proper roast dinner with all the trimmings in return!
 
Minnie_the_Minx said:
It was connected to a proper cooker socket though, although that's just been moved as apparently it's now illegal to have trunking and socket directly above a cooker
Click to expand...
Only if it's a new installation not an existing one.In the interests of safety I suggest you check the breaker or fuse for the cooker circuit and see what it's rated at,i.e. it'll say 30 or 32 amp or some such if this is true and in the unlikely event the new cooker draws more it will blow the breaker,fuse so not a risk.Check the info booklet if there is one and it should tell you the maximum current the cooker will.There's also something called diversification of load,which basically means you're unlikely to have everything on the cooker going flat out all the time,so a 6mm cable may be fine even if at full load it draws more than 30amps.

I'm sure that sounds like a load of gobbledygook,bottom line just get a short piece of 6mm cooker cable and wire it up.
 
peterkro said:
Only if it's a new installation not an existing one.In the interests of safety I suggest you check the breaker or fuse for the cooker circuit and see what it's rated at,i.e. it'll say 30 or 32 amp or some such if this is true and in the unlikely event the new cooker draws more it will blow the breaker,fuse so not a risk.Check the info booklet if there is one and it should tell you the maximum current the cooker will.There's also something called diversification of load,which basically means you're unlikely to have everything on the cooker going flat out all the time,so a 6mm cable may be fine even if at full load it draws more than 30amps.

I'm sure that sounds like a load of gobbledygook,bottom line just get a short piece of 6mm cooker cable and wire it up.
Click to expand...

Well some electricians recently moved fusebox because EDF needed to install new electricity meter, so they ran a full check. When they installed new cooker socket, I told them I was getting new cooker so they could leave that one disconnected, so I'm assuming...., hmm, probably wrong to assume :hmm:

Anyway, Quality Assurance person is coming to check fusebox work soon, so will ask them, or is it something I can see myself in fusebox?
 
andysays said:
I wasn't trying to be narky either, so no worries :)

Glad to hear you've got a friend who can assist if you're unsure, because all joking aside, you need to be confident it's been done right.

Hope you've promised them a proper roast dinner with all the trimmings in return!
Click to expand...

Nah, he does the cooking. He's an excellent cook as well
 
Minnie_the_Minx said:
Well some electricians recently moved fusebox because EDF needed to install new electricity meter, so they ran a full check. When they installed new cooker socket, I told them I was getting new cooker so they could leave that one disconnected, so I'm assuming...., hmm, probably wrong to assume :hmm:

Anyway, Quality Assurance person is coming to check fusebox work soon, so will ask them, or is it something I can see myself in fusebox?
Click to expand...
Yes you can see it yourself written on fuse or breaker.If the breaker /fuse is rated 40amps or more use 10mm rather than six.I have a feeling I'm confusing you with detail.I'd bet my bottom dollar that the maker was right when he said either 6 or 10mm would be fine.
 
Minnie_the_Minx said:
Or anyone that knows anything about electrics or know what the difference between a 6 and 10 amp cable is?
Click to expand...

I don't think it has been made adequately clear on the thread that what you are needing is either 6mm² or 10mm² cable, not 6 or 10 amp cable.

The mm² refers to the cross-section of the cable - how thick the wires are. The best thing to do would be to make it very clear to the shop you go to a) what the application is - ie "an electric cooker", and b) the current rating you are after - 30A.

(no offence intended to those who have already provided excellent advice!)
 
existentialist said:
I don't think it has been made adequately clear on the thread that what you are needing is either 6mm² or 10mm² cable, not 6 or 10 amp cable.

The mm² refers to the cross-section of the cable - how thick the wires are. The best thing to do would be to make it very clear to the shop you go to a) what the application is - ie "an electric cooker", and b) the current rating you are after - 30A.

(no offence intended to those who have already provided excellent advice!)
Click to expand...

I have seen 6mm cross terminal board mentioned here on page 17

http://www.electrolux-ui.com/2012/892/957330EN.pdf
 
peterkro said:
Yes you can see it yourself written on fuse or breaker.If the breaker /fuse is rated 40amps or more use 10mm rather than six.I have a feeling I'm confusing you with detail.I'd bet my bottom dollar that the maker was right when he said either 6 or 10mm would be fine.
Click to expand...

Have to go out now, but will take photo of fusebox later.

Thanks for help everyone
 
Erm, my advice is not to dabble with electrics if you don't know what you're doing. It isn't difficult but fucking up can be fatal.
 
existentialist said:
It'd be wise to make sure you get the cable that is rated according to the rating on the fuse/breaker, rather than the cooker. That might be a little overconservative, but the idea is that the fuse should be the weak link in the circuit, not the cable...
Click to expand...

And buying a cable that is too big isn't dangerous. Just a cunt to get into the terminals. :D
 
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