Wind of change brings flour to Brixton
By Jane Wild
A windmill in London that was once part of southeast England’s rural economy is to begin milling grain again, joining the growing number of mills across Britain being brought back into use.
Brixton windmill last produced stone-ground flour before the second world war and fell into disrepair as steam-driven roller mills began mass-producing flour. By 2002, it was on English Heritage’s “buildings at risk” register.
Then, a group of enthusiasts, many from an overlooking housing estate, rallied to save the listed building, which with the help of National Lottery support reopened last year as an educational centre and visitor attraction.
Now the Friends of Windmill Gardens are raising money to get the windmill working commercially, too, as it approaches its 200th birthday.
“People come and they’re absolutely fascinated,” says Jean Kerrigan, who lives nearby and who chairs the Friends group. “It’s wonderful to see our rural past brought alive.”
The Brixton windmill’s revival is part of a renaissance for British mills, according to the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings. About half a dozen have been restored to use this year and heritage and education are not the only motivations.
Another reason the millstones have started to grind again is that resurgent national interest in baking, typified by television programmes such as
The Great British Bake Off, has driven demand for traditionally made flour.
Jonathan Cook, chairman of the Traditional Cornmillers Guild, which represents millers using natural energy and techniques, said: “This is a great time for traditional milling. The whole market for our products is transformed.” Members of his guild have reported a “significant increase” in business, Mr Cook said, adding that orders at his Swaffham Prior windmill in Cambridge have doubled in the past three years.
He estimates that more than 100 traditional mills in the UK are able to produce flour, with about 40 doing so commercially. Although their combined annual output of 6,000-8,000 tonnes is a tiny part of the total UK market, the flour they produce is distinctly different to that from mass producers.
“One thing we’re not anxious about is having a market for our flour,” said Jenny Hartland, who heads the preservation society of Holgate windmill in York. The mill, which reopened to visitors last year, is expected to begin selling flour in the new year.
Flour production restarted last year at Talgarth watermill in mid-Wales after more than 60 years. Gez Richards, the mill’s manager, says orders for his wholemeal flour continue to rise, noting that customers are particularly drawn by the fact that the wheat comes from a farm just three miles away.
Such demands for traceable provenance and low food miles are part of a wider trend for artisan foods – higher-quality, additive-free produce made in small quantities. The prospect of stocking up on bread and cakes made with flour from a windmill down the road has a strong appeal in gentrifying Brixton, where the local market now sells a range of products from local makers, including Ossie’s Fresh Ginger drink, Jenny Graham pepper jelly and (with a nod to the area’s local currency) Brixton Pound brown sauce.
At the Brixton Cornercopia deli, which specialises in “ultra-local food”, the shelves are lined with jars, bottles and packets, for which much of the contents started out in nearby allotments and gardens. “The more local things are and the louder they shout about their localness, the better the response [from customers],” said Anne Fairbrother, the proprietor.
For people such as Richard Meyers, an actor who helped kick-start the campaign to get Brixton’s windmill’s French burr millstones working again, there is also a strong sense of pride in succeeding with a community-led project. People from around the world have contacted the Friends to share personal memories of the Brixton windmill.
Having survived the social and economic change of two centuries, the Brixton windmill will make one concession to the modern age: the lack of wind flow due to the surrounding buildings means the mill will be powered by electricity.