the centre is compact so you’ll find whatever you like by having a few beers and a mooch.
Very much this. We went in 2012 and did a lot of mooching/having a few beers. Some lovely old architecture and decent bars, slightly Amsterdam brown café style IIRC.
One thing I would recommend, strange though it sounds, is the Sint Anna foot tunnel. You walk through a slightly Art Deco-ish tunnel for about twenty minutes, come out on the other side and get the most amazing view of the city.
We stayed near the zoo and tried to go there but apart from the first evening we had mainly shit weather
and it wasn't worth it - all the animals seemed to be in their little houses (you can go to a preliminary bit without buying a ticket, IIRC).
The weather was so shit that we stayed in the hotel for an entire afternoon. Luckily, we got a good deal at the Radisson which has a spa so I was there all afternoon. My OH, despite being a republican, ended up watching the Queen's Jubilee on the massive TV in the room.
That's how shit the weather was.
Hopefully you won't get shit weather. Chouf beer (with a gnome on the label) is readily available and very good, though somewhat strong.