Amalfi coast, Italy. Any tips?

[mod]

I'm off to the Amalfi coast with my better half in April for a week. We've never been to Italy before so any tips would be very much appreciated. We've got hotels booked in Praiano and Minori (deliberately chosen as both are meant to be quiet places off the main tourist trail).

Whats it like driving there? I've read its a little precarious along the coastal roads.

Pompeii is on the list. Would like to do things a little obscure and off the beaten track (if possible).

ta

 

[Bahnhof Strasse]

Driving is fine, just take it easy. Do not leave the car on the street near Pompeii, tell your car hire company you intend going there and they will direct you to a safe place to park.

Day trip to Capri is worth it too.

 

[David Clapson]

I spent a week in Atrani. Driving in April should be OK-ish traffic-wise, as it's not high season. It's painfully slow because the roads are so narrow and squiggly. I wouldn't say it's dangerous - there are barriers to stop you going over the cliff. Afterwards I wished I'd rented a little dinghy to put-put along to coastal restaurants and villages. It would have saved a lot of time. The direct route across the water would often be a fifth of the distance by road.

As you've not been to Italy before I reckon the food will blow your mind. There are so many regional specialities which we know nothing about. You could spend a blissful week just trying to eat them all and lying on the beach to recover. Try to stay out of the tourist-trap restaurants which cater for large groups of boorish
Germans who think it's OK to have long sing-songs as if they're some major choir which the rest of the diners are privileged to hear.

Naples is apparently an amazing place to wander around and eat the street food. I came through it but on a motorbike and it was so terrifying I decided not to go back. Maybe you could get there by ferry in a reasonable time?

Take care of your valuables. There are lots of dodgy-looking geezers around, giving off a mafia vibe, and the local police are a bit of a joke.

 

[InfoBurner]

Driving is terrifying, especially when you encounter (very experienced, no doubt) Napolinese bus drivers around sharp bends. I was the passenger, my partner loved driving. White knuckle ride IMO, but I hate cliff edges. 37 miles long but you can chicken out and go back to Naples through the mountains at a few towns.

I preferred Herculaneum to Pompei, the 79ad explosion felt more real and relatable there. The quality of the archaeology was more compact.

 

[2hats]

I generally wouldn’t bother with a car - last time I was there for several days I just got around on the Circumvesuviana train - from the Solfatara (Pozzuoli) in the west, via Naples to Herculaneum (definitely the most engaging site), up Vesuvius, (not up) Pompei, to Sorrento. However I’ll be in the area again in a few weeks - with a car this time. Top tip - get a local to drive it so you can relax - that’s what I do (then as a bonus they also take you to all the really fantastic places to eat and drink, not the hit and miss tourist ones ). More practical tip - make sure you get a standalone insurance policy for the rental car to cover you being stiffed by the car hire company. At least that’s then one weight off your mind. Oh yeah, don’t hire anything larger than a Cinquecento, that will also help

 

[not-bono-ever]

Sorrento is an expensive tourist hellhole. I agree with the car comments- unless you really need one, its a nightmare to park anywhere in a town.There is alot of Pomepii to see and you do get a bit monument fatigued after a couple of hours, but if you are in the area, then do it or herculaneum( which is more compact). Do not miss Naples for a day or two- I hated it the first time, but loved it the second- its a proper grimy, shit strewn rough and ready city but kinda charming once you get into it - and the Pizza at Pizzaria di matteo is the best thing I have ever eaten on my travels

eta, i reread your post- yes, the cliff road are fantastic for driving, but see if you can get on site reserved car parking at your hotels just in case, we didnt bother with the car when i took the family the next time and just trained it

 

[David Clapson]

(then as a bonus they also take you to all the really fantastic places to eat and drink, not the hit and miss tourist ones ).

The best meals I've had in Italy were when I asked a local for a recommendation. I don't speak Italian but I looked up "please can you recommend somewhere for lunch?" If you're in a place where the locals go when they want to indulge, the menu won't be starter-main-pudding, there'll be vegetable courses which seem to appear at random out of the kitchen. There might be meat or fish courses which don't come with anything on the side. There'll be daily specials which all the locals will eat. So perhaps it would be good to look up "I'll have whatever you recommend" rather than using the menu. You may well end up having no idea what you've eaten. I think if I did this again I'd look up "please could you write down what I've had."

 

[mod]

Off on Monday, hiring a little Fiat 500 and the plan is....

Praiano for 3 nights

Minori for 2 nights

Then 2 nights in Bacoli staying with mates.

Will report how it goes and thanks again for the tips.

 

[2hats]

I'm here, er there, now. Roads aren't too bad at this time of year. Parking needs a little creativity but is possible. You might have to suck up parking costs from time to time. Locals have already managed to put a couple of dings in the car whilst I was away from it, but hopefully they won't get noticed. Anyway have the extra insurance to cover my ass. Sitting on a terrace overlooking the coast, guzzling red wine, waiting for the Chinese space station to put in a final appearance, having earlier eaten too much good food and watched the Easter procession in Amalfi.

Oh yes, forgot to add, went walking and locals gave us a bagful of lemons off their trees. Gorgeous smell and flavour. Saved me having to scrump some

 

[2hats]

Praiano for 3 nights

Walk the narrow streets down by the coast (below the coastal road) to the small harbour. With luck fresh lemons might fall your way.

Minori for 2 nights

Proceed directly to Sal de Riso on the front (hard to avoid) then proceed to put on many kg of weight.

Pizza to blow your taste buds can be found inland in Tramonti (home of the pizzaioli).

 

[not-bono-ever]

the huge loose skinned peelable lemons you find in that neck of the woods are wonderful

 

[mod]

Walk the narrow streets down by the coast (below the coastal road) to the small harbour. With luck fresh lemons might fall your way.

Proceed directly to Sal de Riso on the front (hard to avoid) then proceed to put on many kg of weight.

Pizza to blow your taste buds can be found inland in Tramonti (home of the pizzaioli).

Just returned from Sentiero Degli Dei (Walk of the Gods). Was stunning but I’m shattered. Need to get my energy back....

 

[2hats]

Picnic of pizza bianca, vino rosso i sorbetti di melangrano for me next to the temples at Paestum.

 

[mod]

We loved it. Will report back when less tired, pissed and pastaered